Outdoor Power Equipment (Lawn Mowers, Snow Blowers, Chain Saws and more) Discussions

Before I finally get around to putting my 1988 ST824 project back together (just in time for Spring), I need to repaint the auger housing (I have one of the Ariens SnoThros that have the paint peeling off in sheets).  I figure that with all the work I have put into it, it might as well look good.  Has anyone found a suitable (similar color to Ariens orange) paint?  The previous owner used what appears to be a flat fluorescent orange marker paint.  As you might expect, it doesn't really match at all- it looks pretty bad. 

I will probably bring the housing over to my dad's house and use a few pounds of black beauty to get the housing clean.  It's sad to see how poor the paint was on a few year's models.  My 1974 still has great looking paint. 

Any suggestions/ recommendations as to what steps (prep, primer, etc)  to take to ensure the best paint "performance"?

Thanks for any and all suggestions.

Ralph

Consider taking a part with the orange color to a paint store and have them match it with a computer.

Hi Ralph,

Yes there is a cost involved with matching up chips etc.  I investigated some of those options, time consuming costly etc.  When I called the manufacturer and they said they had no spray paint etc.  I said ok I will just paint it john deer green, which they sell everywhere in a few different types of paint.  (if you have ever seen the Ariens models re-badged and sold under John Deer brand, I think they look sharp and tough, green housings, yellow wheels and augers, black motor and handle etc)  Would I do it to a new or vintage Ariens, Probably not. (am gonna do it to a 5 two stage mtd soon, u can never get too much paint on some of them)) But I did do it to an ol 1974 lawnboy (refurb, seals rings etc) Mag deck Then sprayed the engine cover gloss black with that new plastic fusion paint.  When I gave it back to owner/relative, he thought I did a good deed by replacing his old lawnmower with one of those new lesser quality mulchers with a steel deck. 

By the way what is the proper way of painting an aluminum lawnboy, Not the mag deck.  Their paint is like 8 bucks for 8 ounces,  8 ounces would be barely enough to squeak by on a 19 inch deck, so gotta buy two, 16 bucks, but at least they sell it.  It is Lacquer,  The one I want to restore 100 percent, I would like to do it right, so primer suggestions etc. would be helpfull.  They use to sell zinc-chromite etc, now that is off shelves, prob EPA again.

There is a color out there that may match lawnboy, not 100 percent sure, think duplicolor in auto section  called "Grabber Green"

and not sure if Chrysler HEMI ORANGE engine  paint would match ariens, Might be worth a look  The current orange Ariens uses has a lot of red in it's cast,  you don notice it till you try and match with other oranges, take skid shoe with me to match bring can home and test spray.    used different color/types primers etc. it would never match.  the ariens paint always looked like it had a redder cast to it.  I now got a ton of orange paint, I use it on anything I can,  I got orange garbach cans and orange tomato stakes, etc etc.  just to use it up.  When buddies come over they keep moving, cause if they stand still too long they are afraid I will paint them orange.    

That Ben07

Ariens part # 000085 Ariens orange. First step is to wash your machine good with a heavy solution of Dawn liquid dish soap and water. Then take it and sand blast it. Then wipe it down with a final clean solution . Then prime it with a good 2 part epoxy etching primer. Then paint it with 3 or 4 very light coats.  Will look like new and last forever.  Get the final clean and primer from your local autobody supply store.

You've gotten several good responces on choices for orange paint. One I'll add is Allis Chalmers orange if the others are not available, or you don't want to pay for custome mixed paint. As to prep, cleanliness is next to Godliness in paint prep. A clean grease free surface painted in a dust free environment will go a long way towards a good result. Make sure your primer is compatible with your top coat. And you need to spend more time sanding the surface smooth between coats than any other step of the process, and of course cleaning after sanding.

Ralph,

Glad to see you finally got it fixed. As per our discussions you know I was in the same predicament as you. I did spray mine and it really looks great. The Ariens paint kneebiter suggested (part # 000085) is listed at 9.80 a can at RCPW.com. I find my dealer is usually about 25% higher on parts than RCPW, but shipping is rather steep there, however no tax. Heres the link for the paint if you decide to go that way.

http://search.cartserver.com/search/search.cgi?cartid=a-8491&category=Ariens04&keywords=00008500

I myself used two cans of  Dupli-Color Engine Enamel with Ceramic, the code on the cap is Chevy Orange DE1620 and can be bought at Autozone for 3.79 a can.  I was very pleased with the results. My eyes can't distinguish the difference from the original. I also put several coats of clear coat over the paint. Keep in mind even if you bought the Ariens paint it would never be a perfect match due to aging and weathering of the old paint. Since you do have an older unit, cost may be a factor so it's just something for you to consider.

I wanted to post a pic but am unable to find any information on this site on how to do it.

Is the pic from a website or your computer?

Marshall,

It's on my computer, I tried to add it to my signature but it indicates I need a URL.

itzbinnice wrote:
OK, you need to upload those pics to a hosting site. Use this one, just register and then you'll be good to go.

Image Shack


Once you upload them there, click on the mountain looking icon in the toolbar and paste the URL of the pic in there, click OK, then post.

Thanks to all for your suggestions.  Since this is an older machine, I will probably use the DupliColor paint that Will (itzbinnice) suggested.  Using the paint from an autobody supplier might cost more than the entire sno thro has cost so far.  I might wind up re-painting it again, but we'll see.

Ralph

Ralph

Good idea cost wise, I'm confident you'll be pleased with the color match. Just be sure to paint it where it's warm. I did it in my unheated garage and ran both a quartz and propane heater to warm it up. I also made sure the paint cans were in a warm environment for several days before I painted. Good luck, I hope things work out as well for you as they did for me.

Marshall,

Many thanks for the link, I'll go there later and post some pics. I have to go out shortly to bring my dog to the vet, I know the cost of this visit would have enabled me to have the snowblower professionally painted, with a baked finish. The dog is part of the family and is more important than a shiny snowblower.

OK guys here goes, I hope things don't get screwed up. In case it does you can go to this link and view the 4 picture gallery. Click on the pic to enlarge it for a more detailed view. Below I'll describe the pics.

http://img144.imageshack.us/gal.php?g=oldaugergear7mv.jpg&cols=4

Sideview: Shows the paint job, the inside of the bucket and augers were painted, outside of bucket to the point where the impeller housing meets the frame. I did not need to paint the chute assembly, as you can see it's an excellent color match. Also if you notice on the top I made a cleanout pole that is attached with spring brackets to the existing holes that were drilled in the auger housing. I used  aluminum tubing from a squeege mop my wife was throwing out that a 3/4" dowl was inserted and pinned for strength, the tip is made of plastic that I scavenged from the mop, rubberized handle also from mop. For a personal touch I applied the two skull head decals on the sides, wanted snow flakes but couldn't find any.

Auger View: Shows the inside of the bucket with paint job to augers and bucket.

Custom Headlight: Bought this in Lowes for 10.00, completely water tight. It was a 110 volt exterior light that I gutted the inside and inserted a 12 volt automotive socket and put an 18 watt automotive bulb in. Also put a toggle switch in that's mounted under the light and painetd the positions green for on and rd for off so my sorry eyes can see it.

Old Auger Gear: That's what the gear looked like when I opened the case, doesn't even resemble a gear. That's what happens when your augers are frozen or some sorry a$$ individual puts nails as a substitute for shear pins. That is exactly what the previous owner did to this machine that cost me unnecessary money an extensive labor.

Edited:  My apologies,  looks like I failed at posting the pics here, I need to do more reading before I attempt again. You can still view at the link I posted.

  Bill,

            IT LOOKS NEWWWWWWW !!!! !  !   !    !  Great job!

                                                                 Fred   

                                                                                          

                                             

  THE FLAMING SKULL!

LOOKS GREAT MAN.

Fred- Marshall

Thanks for the compliments, just sorry you had to go to the link to view. I'll attempt to learn the process of posting pics properly with a commentary over each picture for ease of viewing. I see my friend Marty knows how to do it, he's my idol, when I grow up I want to be just like him.

Bill,

Sweet looking Ariens and I love the custom headlite  If the outside housing ever needs painting, you can try your hand at air brushing that cool flaming skull on there and sealing it in clear.  Again, great job

Richie wrote:

Richie

Thank you, doubt the headlight will ever need repainting, It's made for exterior use with a baked on finish, Besides the unit is stored inside and upon completion after every use  I put the quatz heater next to it to dry it, then towell dry it and spray with silicone spray. The wife thinks I'm sick and in need of medication, she calls me Felix Unger. As far as air bruhing that's a talent I don't have, can't even draw a straight line.

Regards

Will

Will-

You did a great job.  Did you prime the auger housing before painting orange?  Makes me want to get mine back together ASAP.  Unfortunately, I'll be gone for a week (missing a storm, too- see my post), so more important things have to be taken care of first.  Maybe I'll post pictures of the sheared pins I found when I get back.  I'm still amazed they sheared. 

My project has a sticker that says "this engine has provisions for electric starter and alternator/headlight", so I hope there is that 12v power wire in there somewhere- it would be nice to have that headlight when it is dark.  It already has the 120v starter installed. 

Ralph

Ralph,

I primed the inside of the auger housing only, the outside was in better shape so I just used fine steel wool, then PrepAll, and finally alcohol before painting.

As far as the starter goes mine didn't have one but did have provisions for the alternator\starter as your does. I bought a brand new one on Ebay that is the latest model (the one with red button) for 77.00, works great. The engine already had an alternator, check for a two wire plastic connector right above the right tire (passenger side), it should be exiting the shroud there if one exists. One of the wires shoul be fastened to a ground screw there. I'll go read your post now.

Regards

Will

Here ya go....

And may I say nice job!....

C

Will - That baby looks AWESOME!!!  I would like for you to come down to NJ to finish painting my Sears & don't forget to bring some of those "skull" decals with ya! NICE JOB MY FRIEND! Email me if you need some help with pic posting...

Guys - Will is a sticker for detail & his workmanship truely SHINES!!

Marty

Looks sweet...awesome job!

Richie wrote:

Hi there Bill,

I didn't notice I had a typo in my comment.  I meant to say if the Auger housing ever needed painting, you may want to try airbrushing the flaming skull onto that part of it, not the headlight housing.  Since you mention you don't airbrush, that cool sticker can always be clear coated so it can never peel. I remember my old Honda dirt bikes used to have the Honda logo's clear coated with the rest of the fuel tank. 

I like the custom cleanout pole.  All that machine is missing is a very cool set of drift breakers.  Since the attachment points are already there, you should come up with another great idea for those.  It'll really dress the machine up

BTW...folks, aren't the new snowblowers actually powder coated these days?  If so, and since us consumers don't have equipment like that, how does normal automotive paint hold up on these machines?

Chriss,

Thanks for posting for me , much appreciated.

Marty,

I'm sure you're more than capable of painting that Sears, I wouldn't be surpised if you had a spray booth set up somewhere and put my job to shame, you have just about every  tool known to man. I think I know what I did wrong in posting the pics, should I have another problem I will email you.

Richie,

Yes I plan to clearcoat the decal, the sides were already clearcoated when I appied it. I'll wait to the summer, much better environment to paint in. I'm sure no automotive paint will be as good as the factory  powder coat paint as far as duarbility, but I did spray paint my rear house door about 12 years ago with a white automotive lacquer using a borrowed compressor. Paint still looks decent aside from a few nicks, I believe I paid about 25.00 a quart back then.

Nice looking but rust is cancer it always

come back that's the bad thing about it

3 things:

1) i was at the ope shop last night. they had the ariens orange spray paint on the shelf. thought that 4.99 was good price....then saw it was 14.99';

2) what about touch up paint....like the ones we get for cars? is there any?


3) if u put touch up paint on w/out preparing the surface will it just rust thru?

solara wrote:

1. If you need it, 15 bucks isn't much to preserve the paint.

2 I haven't seen any?

3. If it was rusted before, yes it will rust through again. Remove the rust, sand and prime. If you just have chips with no rust, you can get by with touch up only.

That headlight looks like factory.  Beautiful job there. 

I've used the Dupli Color Orange enamal on the tractor housing and it's really nice stuff - goes on easily, doesn't run easily, and seems to be tough.

But what about the White? I tried "Wimbledon White"  which seemed the closest match in the store, but the Ariens white is a little more towards beige.

Not a big deal as I'm repainting the wheels and handlebars, and the new engine is black. But I have an ST824 that I'd like to repaint the wheels on as well.

I use Chevy orange engine paint it matches Ariens orange pretty good, you can buy it at WAL-MART.

I am pretty sure that in the 6 years that have past he has found paint and painted it.   flathead wrote: