Outdoor Power Equipment (Lawn Mowers, Snow Blowers, Chain Saws and more) Discussions

In January of 2006 I purchased a Ariens 7524e with a Tecumseh OH195SP-73503C engine.   Last winter one of the oil plugs backed out while I was clearing my driveway and the engine siezed.  The engine is toast.  the body of the Snowblower is in excellent condition so I am trying to find a replacement engine for the blower.  The problem is this engine has the PTO.  Does anyone know of a replacement engine that can be fitted to the body without doing too much fiddling.

Thanks

Sorry to here about your engine. You can search to try and find another one. Your other choices are  a Subaru sx30,sx28. Dam good engines. You can go with Honda gx series. Or go with Briggs And Stratton.   Most folks go with a Honda clone engine. It is the cheapest way out. Go to Harbor Freight.com. You can get a more powerful engine than your Techumseh  for $250 or less

  A louzy pickle.  I’ve been looking for subs myself so snooped around.  Nothing at Jackssmallengine, Smallenginewarehouses and a few others.  I was pointed to Briggs but they are close to dropping all dual shafts and none in winter engines.   There is one Briggs 6hp for a tiller that would work which is $375. 

   Tecumseh has dropped your engine but currently lists 907367 as its replacement which may not be in production yet or a fantasy.  You could call Tecumseh at 800-558-5402 to check.  The replacement lists at $464 so probably not an option.

 

   Your Ariens is probably a 932041.  Those came with a standoff support for the crank chute gear head so out of the way.   Your tractor base will probably have room and holes for an 8hp L-head.  The old Tecumseh should have the same base hole dimensions as 8hp Tecumseh.  You can mount L-head dual shaft engines as a replacement.  I don’t think any new ones are available but you could stick on a used engine.  MTD used dual shaft engines at least from the 80’s to approximately 2008.  (None of the new MTD OHVs that I checked were dual shaft. )  

   You could buy an MTD engine or complete snowblower with a problem to get an engine.   All the older models will be dual shaft.  If you came across a newer model you could check the engine type at ordertree to see if the engine is the right type.   Get the snowblower factory number and check it at the ordertree site below.  The site will list the engine number but you can tell from the drawings what the shaft arrangement is.

http://www.ordertree.com/modelinfo/MTD/62.1.html

 

An 8hp MTD will probably have a 1 inch crank.   If your engine is ¾ then you’ll have to get another pulley but the 8 may come with a match.  There might be a small difference in crank height which would probably be ok but the distance of the PTO might require a belt size change.   

Thanks for the replies,

Closest I've found is the Briggs 12D393-0018 ($500) or 15D194-0018 ($570) but these would require belt changes so I be in another 600 bucks or so.
Can't see spending 600 buck to refurb a blower I got for $600. 

Guess I bite the bullet and get a new blower.

Pete-

 As I said try HarborFreight .com . You can get a engine for almost nothing. Last I looked ,you can get today  a 6.5 for $129.00  .  A 11 hp goes for $299.00 . I think a 6.5 will do you fine. There 6.5 has more torque than your Tecumseh . It is in your price range too

Here is a link for a guy who managed to replace a dual PTO MTD engine with one of those Harbor Freight engines.
It was on an MTD and he managed to flip the transmission, so you might be able to get lucky if you want to do some work.

http://www.youtube.com/user/vinceleto#g/u

PeteF Interesting, Jacks and SEW told me no dual shafts available in that power range. Briggs told me they only made the 6hp I mentioned which is not a winter engine. Google shows a few places listing those engines you posted. I’m going to call Tulsaenginewarehouse and see if it’s really available. - - Bus708: He needs a dual shaft engine. The HF motors are crank only. - - Shryp: Great link. Great repower. The drive pulley was bigger and I think the auger also oversized. He’s got a super setup.

The second engine you listed I think is no longer being made by Briggs. The 12D393-0018 is a superceeded to number and in production. Weird for Briggs to say they only had a 6hp OHV dual shaft and the rest not being phased out and unavailable. I asked the Tulsa guy if the superceeded engine would be available in the future and he said no problem. Good luck to them on selling any at $500. It's got a cast iron sleeve but no mention of the crank on roller bearings.

Also, in one of the comments on that guys videos someone mentioned flipping the axles and everything as opposed to just the friction disc and having good results that way too.

12R1930110E1 Briggs Powerbuilt Snow 5.5hp (used on 932043)

12D1930111E1 Briggs Powerbuilt Snow 7.5hp (used on 932044)

15A1930118E1 Briggs Powerbuilt Snow 8.5hp (used on 932045)

These are the 3 Briggs engine specs made for the 932,XXX platform. Maybe you could find one of these? There are some small idler mods that would be required to make them work. See the parts manuals. It isn't major.

Also, if your Tecumseh is toast, couldn't you buy a non-camshaft PTO version and swap the cam and PTO cover with your old engine? Hmmm, your cam might be bad though... Trouts?

PK

Googling around did not get a hit on those engines. You could try to locate a smashed model of the types Snowmann mentioned. I picked up two dead 932’s with perfect motors. Snowmann: On L-head rod freezes and rod breaks the cam usually survives without injury. I’ve never had one that was bad out of 8 broken engines. I’ve opened up one 11hp OHV with a rod break and the cam was fine. PeteF: In what way is the engine toast? Is it just frozen, rod break, or rod break and case cracked? All of those are possible to repair. When the rod freezes it’s because the rod and crank journal heated up so much the rod (aluminum) meltes and attaches to the steel crank journal. If it keeps trying to turn then it snaps. Worse it snaps and the broken rod flails around in there hitting things or worse blowing a hole in the case wall. If you want to try to fix it then post that and you’ll get help. For a frozen rod or a rod break only where there is no case break or damage inside the fix is fairly easy which is to clean the journal with acid and buy and stick in a new rod. As Snowmann mentioned you could try to get another motor like yours which does not have a PTO and install into it your cam and case cover. I’ve converted three L-head 8hp’s to PTO. It’s fairly simple and you don’t even have to remove the oil while doing it. An OHV would be similar. In fact, many Briggs drawings of PTO engines the drawings have two case covers and two cams, one set for PTO and the other non-PTO. Another option is get a used MTD 8hp. With some minor adjustments you’d have strapping snowblower again. This option would be the cheapest by far. Lots of MTD engines out there.

http://cgi.ebay.com/5hp-Tecumseh-Engine-ES-Snow-King-PTO-Shaft-Ariens-/130453336132?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1e5f9ff044

trouts2 wrote: I consider the engine to be toast because shaft won't move AND I can't for the life of me get the case cover off. 

Petef

I found a Techumseh engine for you. It is a OH195SA-72525 7 HP snow king at SMALL ENGINE WAREHOUSE. It does not have a fuel tank.They have 26 engines $260. They also have a OH195SA-72536  7hp snow king  ,same thing with a fuel tank $259, they have 460 in stock. They also have a OH195SA-19566 7hp snow king 160 in stock $239  Free shipping.  I hope this helps

I have an old compact 922022 that I was in the process of fitting a 5 HP MTD Tecumseh engine on that also has the reverse PTO.

I then got a good deal on a larger full size blower so stuck that in the back of my shed unfinished.

This thread brought up some ideas about me trying to reverse the transmission and converting it to a Harbor Freight 6.5 and keeping it as a backup blower.

I was looking at the transmission, and noticed the wheel axle and friction disk axles are mated with gears with essentially means they spin in opposite directs as well.

This got me thinking of pulling the 2 gears out and replacing them with sprockets and some chain.  This will make them both spin the same direction and negate the reversed PTO on the original engine.
I will also need to change the pulley from the friction wheel as it was the oldstyle dual 1/4" belts, but that is no problem.  Will also need to add 2 little guides to the top sprocket since it floats on the hex shaft.

I am not sure how your transmission is set up, but this might be an easy way for you to reverse your transmission direction and allow a normal engine to be used.

The problem with reversing the drive would be that the unit is set up to run from the 2:1 reduction reverse cam PTO. If you flipped the drive and ran from the main PTO you'd be running behind the unit as the axle RPM's would be doubled.

Shryp: The double speed may not be a show stopper.  You could set the friction disk to be as close as possible to the center of the drive plate and that would be 1.  You could crawl along at the expense of chewing off the friction disk but  even at an increased rate would take many years before it had an effect.  2 would be faster than normal 1 but with the 6.5 GX200 you’d have enough power to clear at a faster rate.  Your machine is only 22 inches not much to load into the impeller.  For massive storms  and nasty EOD you could just take a smaller cut.  For the rest of the driveway with freshly fallen snow 2 would be slightly faster than a normal 1 and not much of an issue    

   Also, to offset the speed increase you could go with a pulley change. 

 

PeteF: I think you mean the crank case cover.   Are you sure you have all the bolts out?

You can try a rubber hammer with lots of light blows on the side going from back to front.

 

Sometimes industrial razor blades work.  Those are like the old shaving blades but not so great for shaving.  Wedge it in and lightly tap it in further.  Do that at a number of places over and over. 

 

I have blades I got a flea market that were for some industrial application.  They are super sharp and very thin.  If the razor blades do not work I use those.  Worse case you could use a thin knife but only go in a short distance in many places over and over.  Eventually all the slight movements add up and the case break free. 

 

One of those motors bus708 listed might.  I only got google hits on one.  It seems to be in the same family as yours so may work.

Yes, I know about the speed change.  I was already thinking of a friction wheel adjustment to compensate and also the smallest engine pulley and largest drive pulley I could get.
Same for the sprockets, smallest  and largest .  This one is actually a 24" model.  Had an H60 engine that was locking up.  The cam PTO was freezing up in the front sump.
I had an H70 that had the crank/flywheel heavily messed up by what I can only guess was a botched points job and switched the cam/sump over and got the H60 running.
This project is not a priority since I already have a 924026 8/24 to use this year and a backup Toro 38035 35/21 that already has the 6.5 clone on it from last winter.

I should probably just dump it, but It seems to be better constructed than the Toro as well as using a lot of the same pieces as the bigger Ariens.  It is also 3" wider which I found annoying on the Toro.

I posted the idea I was thinking of more for PeteF than for myself as I am in no hurry right now.

Thanks the international cargo to Finland for an engine is about 790-1200 USD ! Crazy! and all because of aircargosafety things for a non used engine...