Outdoor Power Equipment (Lawn Mowers, Snow Blowers, Chain Saws and more) Discussions

That brings the Toro count to five.   It really needs to snow so I can get rid of a couple.  Or just stop counting.  Got this one at another auction for $29.00 .
Said it needed a flywheel...  It does and has a few more issues,  But the rest of the blower is in excellent condition.  2010 model  210R   38517  

Flywheel is junk.  This is like the chicken or the egg thing.  Don't know what could cause this.
Unless the nut backed off.  But the magneto did get trashed.  Nor did the recoil.
So what ever happened it happened fast.  Ive seen keys shear if the engine does a massive seize.
Or drops a rod off the crank.  But I've never seen a hub crack even thought it's aluminum.






Tore up the key way slot as well.
What's interesting is that the slot is flared out on both sides.
There is galling on the crank so the flywheel did spin at least a couple of times.
Maybe someone installed the wrong size key? Which allowed it to tip in the slot first.
Then things just started to happen. 





Took out the governor parts.




Am finding out some interesting things.  Such as, I've got a flywheel off of a 1999 Toro CCR2400 and according to
the Toro Parts Master.  The two engines (084132-0120-E1) are the same and they both use the same flywheel.
I say they are the same, but one is an E1 and the 210R is and E8 not really sure what that is?
They also both use the same crank.  And I have the crank as well.
Haven't  decided exactly what I'm going to do with the key way slot.  The slot still has some pretty good sides but
the top portion is pretty bad.  I may just eith tack weld a new key in place on the sides.   Then square it back up with a with a cutting wheel
on a Dremel.  Not sure.  I cleaned it up and it doesn't look to bad.




The casing is so close to the auger pulley that you can't get the belt off without taking off the pulley.  The casing doesn't appear to be bent.
From what I could see.  That's a pain.





The cutting edge / scraper tilts under spring tension.  And is much beefier than the older ones.  It would also be easier to replace.
Two bolts, and they are in a much better location.  Won't take as much abuse and rust as badly.





The tank just slips on a mounting post.  That's it, no other supports other than the neck going through the top cover.



And there is a little "tang" that hooks on the edge of the oval opening that keeps it from sliding off.  Once you push it all the way down and on.
Which it is not in the photo.




Overall the thing is in really good condition.
I also looked down the plug hole and there isn't any carbon at all on the head of the piston, none.
Which is a little strange. 

Well in comparing the two flywheels there are a few significant differences.
One in particular, that I believe maybe responsible for the flywheel hub breaking.
You can see that the older flywheel on the right has a steel center.  I think what may have happened is that
the new flywheel without the steel center may been over torqued or that the torqued rating was to high.
And that when it is tightened down onto the tapered crankshaft, it acts as a wedge and splits / cracks / fractures
the hub.  Once it's put into use the stress vibration etc.. starts working on the stressed point it gets a little wobbly,
out of balance and the end comes quickly at some point.  All just speculation.
But having an all aluminum hub on a steel shaft with a steel key way.  Probably isn't a good idea if anything gets a little loose.
For what ever reason.
 It's also possible I guess that the flywheel wasn't as tight as it should be. 
What ever was the start or cause.  It's easy to see that having a steel center is a far better design.
     

Got a new key and mounted the older flywheel so I could check for spark, and discovered another problem.
Things looked okay with the coil.  But after mounting the flywheel I could see that the air gap was way to much.
Like an 1/8" of an inch.  I assumed that the flywheel had hit it and moved it, which it did.
But as I loosened the bolt on the right on the right side of the coil.  The entire mounting stud on the left side pulled away from
the block.  The flywheel hit the coil hard enough to break the stud right off the head.  Not a major deal to repair, just another
one of those odd things that happens when things go wrong.  Actually it's probably better that the stud broke and the coil moved
out of the way.  Or it might have gotten torn up and would have to be replaced.  There is no damage to the legs thankfully.

By the way the new key fits nice and snug in the slot no movement at all.  And the flywheel has no rotational play either.  So I think I'm just going to leave the crank slot the way it is.
And rely on the taper to keep the flywheel tight and aligned on the crank.