Outdoor Power Equipment (Lawn Mowers, Snow Blowers, Chain Saws and more) Discussions

I have a 10 year old single stage snowblower that's undergoing a full restoration this winter. I got the snowblower bucket disassembled from the chassis and engine. The bucket has been completely stripped down to bare metal. I want good adhesion and abrasion resistance and I'm willing to put in the time and money to get the best paint job that I can do myself without sending out.

What do you guys recommend for primer and paint? Any preparation techniques in addition to stripping down to bare metal and roughing up the surface?

Try Krylon Contractor Primer and Farm and Implement paint.

I know you asked about paints, but powder coating would be the best finish. You could try calling around to different coating shops. See how much it would cost to have them just add your parts to a batch of work they're already doing if an exact color is not all that important.

iLikeOrange wrote:
There's no rush this time.  The snowblower is going to be out commission for the whole winter.  I'm taking it slow to make this paint last another 10 years.  I'm probably going to let it fully cure between coats.

JimmyM wrote:
Yeah, a few guys at work also recommend powder coating as the ultimate durable finish.  I'll check that out.

 I found a "Epoxy Appliance"  paint for stoves and such at home Depot ...  They only had black and White,  but is sure was tuff stuff..(nice gloss too)

Just a note..... we paint and cure things at work from time to time,  I recommed a heat lamp (french fry lamp)  for getting things done in a timely manner. 

Friiy

DavidNJ wrote:
This stuff looks good.  It's expensive, though.   Although  I'm not going to be using much paint so it may be okay.

I like the Hardnose and Metal Mask versions.

friiy wrote:
Black is all I need.  Is this a brush on or spray can?

rattle can......

Friiy

One of the best choices is a good self etching primer.can be purchased in auto store and rattle can too.Then top coat .

I would go to your local automotive store. They have everthing you need. Strippers, Rust preventing primer, fill primer, epoxy paint, and clear coat. The more clear you put on the better. If you hit a rock it will chip the primer not your paint. A good dealer wiil show you how to mix  and apply everthing. if you want to strip it down to metal you can go to Habor Freight and get a cheap sand blaster. You can get a spray gun too .

I've had good results over the years using Tremclad rust paint. Usually available in a lot of colors. If my wife isn't looking, I'll also slip parts into the oven to bake. It seems to produce a smoother harder surface.  My goal is to remove as much rust as possible and not worry about the smoothness of the final finish except for the inside of the auger housing, where I will spend a bit more time smoothing.

I have also used muriatic acid. That stuff eats rust for breakfast. BUT, be very careful to use all the safety equipment, gloves, old clothes, eye & breathing protection. I usually use it outdoors with a fan to blow the fumes away. You also need to get some primer on asap as things will start to rust almost right away. Oh yeah, store the tightly closed acid container inside another tightly closed container. The fumes from the acid can cause rust on your tools and other exposed metal stored in the same room.

Powder coating would be the way to go, I've had experience trying to sand powder coated parts, very tough stuff.

Cheers