Outdoor Power Equipment (Lawn Mowers, Snow Blowers, Chain Saws and more) Discussions

Hi,
I am looking to purchase a new snowblower in about a week, and have narrowed it down to these 3, though its not going to be an easy decision.    Any help would be greatly appreciated. 
The Ariens has the automatic differential which seems very nice, though it seems to have a different engine than the other 2 (not a Snowmax engine, I don't know what the difference is)? 
The Toro has a nice chute joystick and seems well balanced. No heated hand grips.  Do the wheel releases on the Toro or Simplicity have any chance of icing up?
 I like the Simplicity's strong frame, and the electric chute is nice too.  One wheel release vs Toro's 2?

Anything I should consider when looking at these 3? The 24" Simplicity also looked really nice, just from a smaller more manageable size point of view. 

Thanks

ope is correct borat.sno series max has cast iron sleeve.Click on specifications and u will see....

Just when I think I have the Simplicity eliminated from my choices, I read threads like this one. Oy vey! :-)

Bob

Thanks for the correction Mikie.

I went to a different web page for B&S and found the snow engines. It does appear that the new Snow Max engines have the cast iron liner. Is that a recent change? I went and had another look at my engine. It's not a Snow Max. It's an Intek Snow engine and I'm sure it has an aluminum bore. It would appear that B&S have changed their snow engine lineup since my Simplicity was built. If you look at the new Snow engine, it doesn't appear to have an adjustable throttle. The Snow Max does and mine does as well.

Not that the cast bore really matters. Not sure if a cast iron bore is really necessary for winter operating conditions. The Kool Bore engine is supposed to run cooler than a cast liner and being that it's not being operated in a dusty environment it's unlikely that a lot of abrasive particles will cause premature wear of the cylinder. If I had a choice of the cast over the aluminum, I'd take it but I wouldn't pay a premium for it on a snow thrower. If it were on a warm weather, dusty environment machine, I definitely want the cast bore.

Borat,
Yes, the 24" was the professional model. 

I am willing to spend around $2,000, which all these machines are.  The 28" Simplicity is the most (about , then the Toro and Ariens are about the same.  I do like the idea of the cast iron sleeve, but I suppose its not a deal breaker.  I live in Mass, and have a two car driveway, about 150' long.  I do get a huge amount of snow at the end of the driveway, which is why I am leaning toward the 28" machines.  I plan to keep it in either the garage, or shed.  If I keep it in the shed it is about 250' away, over grass and up a ramp so I do know if that makes any difference or not.  I do have a few walkways around the house that I would probably keep clear too.

Are there any con's to the Toro and Simplicity wheel unlock mechanisms?  If I pull the two Toro triggers to unlock both drive wheels, spin it around then release the triggers to engage the drive is there potential for long term wear? 
If I am going up an icy ramp to the shed is there a benefit to either the locked two wheel drive for the Toro and Simp. or the differential on the Ariens?

Man this is going to be a tough decision, but I need to make it soon before the snow flys :) 

Thanks everyone for your help.

Any of the machines you've mentioned will get the job done. That's for sure.

Considering the number and lengths of paths you plan to clear, I'd lean toward the 24" Simplicity. It will be easier to turn around in tight spots. As far a needing a larger machine for end of driveway deposits, I'd stick with the 24" there as well. What's important for EOD snow is power and the ability to chew into the hard pack. I have the 28" and there's no real advantage to extra width when clearing the end of the driveway. Being that the 24 Pro has the same power as the 28" large frame, I'm sure it will be up to the task.

Regarding the Easy Turn feature. It's most useful when re-positioning the machine. Particularly when the engine is off. That's it. When actually throwing snow, I alway have the wheels locked. That's where the traction is. I have a large driveway with a 10% grade. The Simplicity has no problem moving snow either uphill or downhill.

When you decide on a machine and make your purchase, I suggest you do a little extra prep work when you get it home. There's plenty of advice here on easy but important things to look for and do if the dealer missed them.

Good luck.

borat wrote:
Any pointers by any chance where to find this sort of info. I tried some search with no luck. My 828OXE is 'bout to be delivered so I'd like to go over before putting to use. Thanks.
Ruhi

I really like the 24" bucket, but I am leaning towards the 28 because of the increased power ( i know its only 14.50 to 15.50 increase in torque), but the displacement goes from 305 to 342cc.  I am wondering if the larger displacement will be better in the longer run.

Has anybody been having trouble with the electric chute?  I wonder what the price is from Simplicity for the motor.  ( I would probably buy one or two to keep for the long haul in case they stop making them). 

The Toro might be nice with the "power steering" but I wonder how that actually works in the field.  Simplicity just does one wheel, so I guess only power steering to the right?

I will go over the unit and check bolts, grease, etc..  I have a tube of the Mobil 1 synthetic grease that I use on my lawn tractor which works well.

To answer some questions you have raised:


If you can afford the bigger Simplicity than I would go for it.  The only advantage it has is the larger bucket, which decreases the amount of swaths.  It can decrease up to one or more passes depending on the driveway width.  Remember the engines are spec'd to accommodate the max capacity of the larger bucket.  If put onto the same machine, in reality I don't think you will see too much of a difference in terms of power between the two engines.  If the Simplicity 24 is a bit less and closer in price to the Toro then go for it instead.

The remote triggers on both the Toro and Simplicity are designed to be used while the drive lever is engaged.  On the Toro you can squeeze both triggers, and the machine will be in neutral.  The drive lever will be engaged but because of the two squeezed triggers the machine will not move.  Once you release the triggers the machine will move forward.  The Simplicity is a bit different.  It only unlocks one wheel but still drives the other one when you squeeze the trigger.  You will only use these features to turn the machines around.  Once in a straight line again you should use both wheels to drive forward.  Minor corrections in steering are very easy and don't require an assist.  Only turning the machine 90-180 degrees.

I think if you go with either the:

Simp pro 24
Simp pro 28
Toro 1128oxe

You will make a good choice.  All three are very capable machines.  But Simplicity/Toro are a bit different in terms of their overall feel in respect to handling.  This is why I think you should try them out, even just rolling them around on two wheels in the show room.  Decide after getting a feel for them, if you haven't already.

Then think of dealer impressions, and finally price between all three.

Guinness wrote:
I have a John Deere 1130 SE with an electric chute and the 1130 is made by Simplicity.  Not sure, but I'd be surprised if they used a different supplier for the electric chute motor.  The label on my electric chute motor is part number 210-1011 made by AM Equipment.  It's just like the one for $25.99+shipping from the site below.  The gear is different and is easily replaced with the one from the snowblower. 

http://www.robotmarketplace.com/products/AME-210-1011.html

RuhiA wrote:
The following actions apply to both new and used machines:

First thing I'd do is pull the wheels off and use a good water resistant grease to lube the axles. Snowmobile grease is great for snow throwers. Although not necessary, I like to use an outdoor cable/chain/gear grease in a spray can (motorcycle chain lube will do) to lube the drive chains inside the chassis. Make sure you cover the friction plate and drive disk before applying the grease to the chains. You don't want to get any on them. Lube all friction points for the controls. While you're in there, put a thin layer of oil on the hex shaft. I like to use a light spray grease on pivots and light multi purpose oil to spray into the insides of any cables. Grease the auger shaft.

Check belts for condition and proper tension. Go over all fasteners with a wrench to tighten anything that might be loose. Make sure you're fuel tank is clean and passing fuel to the carb. If the machine is running well, chances are they're fine. If there's no obvious leaking at the auger drive gear case, I leave it as is. As long as there's lube inside and it doesn't have a catastrophic event, it should last the life of the machine without messing with it. Others might disagree but I've never had one leak nor changed fluid in one in twenty years.