Catt

I have a HS520 and it's been a great machine. When I saw that Honda was upgrading, I couldn't wait to see the HS720AS. I really wanted to try out the remote chute controls. Well all I can say... they have some work to do. I agree the controls are way too hard to use and need a complete redesign.

I have a couple late model snowblowers with Briggs engines and I haven't had any issues with bent push rods. That being said, this doesn't make me very comfortable hearing of this problem. I wish you luck.

I recently bought another snow blower project for something to do. It was a non running Deere TRS-32 which turned out to be a bad carb float and dirty carb. I looked at a few TRS32 machines before buying one and found there are actually two completely different versions of TRS machines, although they look almost identical. The earlier version (I’m guessing around 1991-1995) has a completely different auger/blower assembly and a completely different transmission assembly. In fact the earlier version is much closer to the 1032 machine. I looked at the parts diagram and the part numbers/diagrams of the internal components are completely different. I read that Murray built the TRS32, but now I’m not sure they actually built the earlier version. One of the easiest ways to see the difference is the blower fan exit for the chute. The earlier version has a large round opening from the blower fan. The later version has a small rectangular opening, but you have to look closely. Just thought I would share.

I've been using an 1130 (with the sealing modifications) and a 1330.  Both have been working great for me so far.  I also wouldn't use them in a commercial application.  Most commercial applications in my area are either a snowplow or a tractor based snowblower.  Then they use a Honda or Toro 20"-21" paddle type for cleanup and sidewalks.  I think my 1130 and 1330 will last many years for the amount I will use them.

I'm guessing a little here, but I believe that since you have power going to the motor to turn it left that the motor and the wiring to the motor are working properly.  I'd expect the switch reverses the polarity to the motor to make it turn to the right.  So if that is the case, I'd look over the wiring at the switch, the crimped connectors on the switch and possibly the switch itself.

Good luck!