Outdoor Power Equipment (Lawn Mowers, Snow Blowers, Chain Saws and more) Discussions

Hello.

This may be a stupid question, but I am having troubles figuring out how to remove the wheels. Nowhere in the manual does it tell you how to do so. It mentions removing the wheels in one section about friction disc replacement. This model has a differential and maybe it makes it harder, unsure.  On the outside of the wheel there is a lock clip that I can remove, but it doesn't seem to release anything. I am guessing its there to hold the wheel in place, but it doesn't give any slack with it gone.  Could it be rusted on? There seems to be quite a bit of rust coming from around the wheel, main reason why I would like to take it off, to grease it up a bit.  The is also a triangle type mount bolted on to the main box chasis (rake/bushing?), this mount has three bolts in it.  I tried to remove these nuts thinking maybe it needed to be loose for the wheel to come off and of couse all the bolts cracked off VERY easily.  So now I have no choice but to get the wheel off so that I can get the cracked off bolts out of that bracket (rake/bushing) and put new ones in. This machine is only one year old and its rusting like no tomorrow. I have taken care of most rust now and the wheels are last to take a look at.

Hope somebody can help me get the wheels off..

Cheers
Goofie Newfie

Thanks Borat;

I am after heating it up enough to burn the paint now and still no give.  I am giving up on it and bringing it to the dealer. No choice, snow soon and this needs to be done.   I do have another question tho, in snowmans post to me, he advises me to be careful with the short axle on the right side. Making sure not to pull it out of the differential. My question is why? If I pull it out will it not go back in or will it cause damage of some sort? I am thinking I would like to pull it out so that I can put some never seez on between the short axle and the axle under it.  After all this rust, I can't seem to justify stopping at just the wheel when the short axle could easily rust on to the axle under it. So if I pull it out, what are the consequences?

Cheers
Goofie Newfie

Man!  Sound like that wheel is welded on.  You're making the right move bringing it into the dealer.  Timing might be bad though.  They might be busy putting new machines together and preparing other customer machines. 

goofienewfie wrote:
No worries about pulling the axle out of the differential as long as it goes back together the way you found it. There are some thin wall bronze bushings in that axle that are not so readily apparent. I could see someone pushing one of those out upon reassembly and not notice it.

PK

Hi all, new member here....

goofienewfie, I've been reading your posts with interest as I currently have a new Ariens on order.
Now I'll be sure to take the wheels off and grease the axles before using it.

If you don't have it already, here is the parts manual for your machine :

    http://apache.ariens.com/manuals/00660300.pdf

For some reason it doesn't show an exploded view for your 921003 machine but I'm presuming
that it's similar to the  926003 on page 12 (that 926 is probably a typo).

Now that you have one wheel off it should be possible to remove the other wheel by sliding it
out of the machine with the long axle attached (or is the short axle stuck to the long axle ?). 
If you do this with the machine opened you can catch the pieces as they fall off the axle and keep
them in order.  Then you can mount it in something like a bench-mounted vise, not tightened in
the vise but with the wheel resting on the vise jaws, and beat on the end of the axle to drive it out
of the wheel.  Heat the wheel like you've been doing beforehand (stick something underneath
to catch the axle).

I don't see what a dealer could do that you can't do yourself,  given that you seem to be fairly
mechanically inclined.  There is your warranty to think about I guess.  Your transportation
charges should be reimbursed by Ariens as I read in another post somewhere.

Keep us posted, problems like this always end up getting solved, it just may take some time
as you've noticed.

Here's your owner's manual if you don't have it :

   http://apache.ariens.com/manuals/00660400A_ENG.pdf

Paul

Hi Borat;

Yes, this wheel is on there good, welded would sum it up perfectly.  As for the dealer being busy, I would assume that your probably right, although I bought my machine this time last year and they had many machines on the floor ready to go. They never really starting moving them until the first snow fall, which is due soon. Then they went nuts.  When I bought this machine, I asked about their service as it was a major concern and he told me their service is top notch and even went as far as to say that they will fix it on the spot while I wait. I don't know if I will ever get to test that tho as I have to have it picked up and delivered. If I had my own pickup I would definitly test that statement.

Hi Snowman;

Thanks for the insight and the warning. I have been studying the assembly on the parts radar site and I have took notice to those thin wall bushings.  I am always careful to take notice of things as they come off and go on. As long as attention to detail is required, I think I will do fine with ensuring that this unit goes back together properly.


Hi Pvrp / Paul;

Welcome to the forum. Glad to here you getting a new ariens. A side from my recent troubles with the wheel and rust inside the chassis, I have been mostly please with the performance of snow removal. I too wish there had been a post similar to mine when I bought my unit as I would have done the same as what you are going to do. Remove the wheels and grease liberally. Some of the problems I have encounted with this machine are. The chute cables were not adjusted properly and some days the teeth of the gear wouldn't lock and the chute would vibrate freely in any direction the engine or wind wanted to move it.  The Chute rotation and deflection cables would freeze and were unless for about 5 minutes each time I started the machine.  Major rusting inside the axle chassis and even the friction plate. How little grease were on moving gears, such as the differential, chute control, etc..   The most obvious right now, the wheel being rusted so much it cannot be removed without major trouble.

Things that I still have to look into are. The belt is loose, so much that it eated a small corner off the plastic shield that was covering it. The chute rotation handle in the control area always hits the frame when I push it to the left. The right side has tons of clearance.

With this all said, I am still happy I bought the ariens as I feel it is well built/solid. Just some tweaking needs to be done.  I don't consider myself mechanically incline, in fact this is probably the most I have ever gotten my hands dirty with when it comes to machinery. But its my first major investment that I feel I can tackle. I mean a lawnmower is not that much fun, lol.. A car is to expensive for me to even think of touching.. lol.. Tho I do some maintenance on it. Oil change, plugs, wires, etc..    Lucky for me I have a shed that lets me work on this and have limited tools. This machine has been excuse to buy a few things here and there.. Weeee :)   But for somebody that doesn't have access to that stuff, I would imagine they may be a little ticked with this machine. Or maybe they wouldn't care, as it works fine really. It blows snow perfectly.  Without getting your hands dirty you wouldn't know the belt was loose or the tire was wielded on, or rust on the axle.  All you would probably know was that the cable freezes and you have to wait for the machine to warm up to melt it or vibrate it free. Minor annoyance probably for some.  The real problems for most wouldn't be unitl the belt broke or the machine rusted enough to cause problems for needing the wheels off. Then they would be in for it.  I guess I am being a little proactive and getting things ready for problems that may arise.

Thanks for the parts manual, I didn't know that exsist. I was always loggin online to look at the parts radar site.  The axle and wheel section looks to be exact as mine and I too suspect its a typo. The great thing about that manual is that I can print it off and the images are much larger then the parts radar site.

Thats for the idea of removing the whole axle. Truth be known I was thinking the same thing and wondered why nobody suggested it. This was another reason why I was thinking that I shouldn't touch the differential. Maybe something bad would happen if I removed it off the axle. lol.. See I told you I wasn't that mechanically inclined.  Tho, I couldn't seem to get my mind off the fact that it should just slide on and off and that it should all go back together nicely with proper care. Now that snowman has confirmed it and you also bought up this idea, I will definately try this before I bring it to the dealer.  The short axle appears to be moving freely and not rusted, so I should be able to remove the whole axle. Once I get that off the machine, I cannot see me not being able to get that tire off. Some really nice smacks hopefully will free it up and best of all I don't have to worry about the bushings and differential for heat and vibration purposes.

Again, thanks for the information and ideas.  I hope to share a few as I learn them :) .  I am thinking I will start a new post when this is done, with some of the things I have learned summed up for a new owner or a newbie to the whole thing.  I also have a idea to stop the cables from freezing. Not sure if it will work and it may be laughable. But then again, I am Goofie Newfie.. haha.  But in concept I think it may work.  Will test and see, will post idea and results and soon as this wheel problem is fixed.


Cheers All
Goofie Newfie

Just a footnote : it would probably be a good idea to put a piece of hardwood between the end of the axle
and whatever you're hitting on it with to avoid damaging the axle.

Paul

WoooooooooooooHoooooooooooooooo!

Wheel is off.. Thanks Pvrp.  I did just what you said. Removed the axle and smacked it out. Now to clean these parts up and put it back :)  Only problem I ran into was the roll pin. I never had a punch, so I ran off to get one, tried other things first, but nothing worked like the punch.  I did wonder how hard it would be to get back in tho. Not looking forward to that part, but none the less. Wheel is OFF! Yipppeeee :)

Inside the wheel and the axle it was rusted quite bad and felt like a very ruff sandpaper. Glad I caught this now. Soaking it in so pb blaster right now to cut off most of the rust before some light sanding.

Thanks to all the helped, certainly gave me the confidence and knowledge to get this done.

Cheers
Goofie Newfie

goofienewfie wrote:
Good news !  Roll pins aren't hard to re-install though it looks like the pin is up against the side of the box which
may mean using the punch to drive it back in which can be a bit awkward.  I don't know what size punch you bought
but it's easier on the pin if the tip of the punch is bigger than the pin.   The pin is a spring and its ends are a bit
tapered so as long as you line it up properly before tapping on it it should go in ok.  It's a lot easier when you can hit
on it directly with a hammer.

Just out of curiosity, how rusted are the clips that hold the wheels on ?  I really don't understand this design,
it just seems so flimsy to me.  Sure the clips do the job on the showroom floor but how long will they last in hard
work in salt saturated street slush ?  In comparison, my 1999 Ariens 1024 has four half-inch bolts holding
each wheel on.

Paul

pvrp wrote:
The roll pin is right up against a washer that is tight to the box, I have two size punches, the one bigger was definitely better.. Not much room to work at the roll pin, but I am sure I can get it back in. Just not without some hassle tho, always the way :)  I have the axles and differential all back and assembled, but its not %100 percent complete. Having trouble getting the bolts out of the rake that I original broke off trying to remove the one wheel.  All three are snapped off and rusted pretty good in there. Have broke off two screw extractors trying to remove them. Only one bolt left without a broken of screw extractor it in right now.  Any tips on removing them. The screw extractors I am using are a reversible drill bit type. I have seem another that are almost twisted square / diamond shaped without any drill grooves. Wonder if they are better?  About to give up on that and buy a new rake, don't imagine it will be that expensive.  The nylon bushing inside is in great shape and the heat didn't seem to do any harm to it.

As for the clips, they seem to be in great shape. Aside from being covered in rusted grease, they are good. Maybe the rusted grease helped :)  The concept seems to be ok, Not sure in the long haul. I am sort of glad that it was these clips as the bolt would probably caused more problems for me, according to the rust I had to deal with.

lol, $9.95 Cdn for the rake shaft.  Would have been better to just buy that originally. Cost me same price for screw extractor kit.  Oh well, least I still got three more sizes left to crack off some other time. :)