Outdoor Power Equipment (Lawn Mowers, Snow Blowers, Chain Saws and more) Discussions

Hi All,

New here (first post) but have been reading on this site for a few years and appreciate all of the knowledgeable info from all of you. Thanks!

I had a Simplicity 555 snow thrower for seven years but it was way underpowered (5 HP), and I am pushing 50 with a bad back, so I decided to buy a new one with more power. I live in NJ and have a big driveway along with a sidewalk that is 150' long, . Also, the bus stop for the kids is on my driveway so it is important to me to make sure it it clean and safe. Well, tonight I bought a new Simplicity Signature Pro model 10524 from a dealer in Princeton. The dealer told me it was last year's model and would sell it to me for last years price for 1650.00, which I paid. But when I got home and looked at the receipt, I noticed the model was a 10524P, not P10524E as in last years brochure. On top of that, the 2008 model is P1524E.

Anyone know what the 10524P year is and did I get a bad deal? I didn't want to buy something brand new if it's a two year old model.

Thanks for your help in advance.

No , They are correct, just checked mine and it goes to 50,000 Rpm!!

It will work on your 3 cylinder or 4, 5, any number!!

                                                                                   Fred

Hi Fred:

This is shaping up to be a good thing maybe.  Several months ago, I needed a tach to measure the rpms of my diesel power plant that I have out a camp.  I ordered an electronic Tiny Tach that used a transducer that mounts onto one of the fuel lines.   Well it seemed to have worked for about two minutes.  Just long enough for me to get a reading of 1800 rpm then it went haywire.   So, I think I have the desired setting of 1800 rpm but not completely sure of it.  Now for my final question (hopefully), can this device be trusted to give me an accurate reading of +/- 50 rpm or less?   The engine I'm trying to test is a 3 cylinder Kubota diesel.   Cast iron block and head if that matters.

Talldog wrote:
When I bought my current snowblower both the sales slip and other paperwork stated it was a Honda HS928 TAS but the machine is actually an HS928 TCD like it says on the small serial# decal. The difference between the TAS and TCD is that the TCD has joystick type electric chute controls, DC electric starter (like a car) and work light, "the works". After ordering the machine from a dealer near my home in Maine I looked at the paperwork and got somewhat anxious over the fact that it appeared as if the dealer had made a mistake or was trying to push a TAS on me after charging me for the more expensive TCD. Called them and got it cleared up, they told me that since the TCD is a Canadian model that's only available in the US on special order, their computer did not have it listed as such but that if I read the small print I would notice that the extra features that come with the the TCD were all listed, and indeed they were. Apparently this saves Honda some extra duty fees.

When the machine arrived I was expecting the decals to proudly display the snowblower's impressive pedigree, with perhaps a maple leaf emblem to boot, so that I could make the Joneses turn green with envy but damn, it just said HS928!

Seriously, I think that's pretty wise. After all, all 9/28 Hondas are HS928's and that way they can change the suffix of specific models every year if they feel like it and still use the same decal.

I just bought the same 10.5 hp simplicity.

I like the machine, but that exposed wiper motor for the shute seems like it might be a trouble spot. It will get hit with plenty of salt from EOD crap. Hopefully it wont be a problem. I may make some sort of plastic shield for it?
$1650 is what I paid, I think that is list. Wish I bought last May.

Tubby wrote:
Tubby, I'm not too worried about the motor itself, but  its wiring might be a weak spot. There is also exposed wiring on the bottom of the starter motor. Guess time will tell. I was thinking of making some kind of boot/shield for it also. Maybe something like a spark plug boot?

At the very least, maybe some sealing with some liquid electrical tape around where the wires enter the connectors. That stuff is great, use on electrical stuff in boat bilges. It will keep salt water from flowing down the wire into the terminal where it can sit and corrode.

Talldog wrote:

Protecting the wiring is a good idea.  Putting something around it that my have the propensity to hold water might add to the corrosion problem.  If you're going to put a boot around it, fill the boot with dielectric grease to deny any opportunity for water and salt to get into it.    I think a dab of silicone might do the trick as well. 

DonMac wrote:
If I remember correctly we discussed this last year and came to the conclusion it was a variable diameter pulley setup. When the engine is under too much load the RPMs start to drop. The Sheaves on the pulley change and the ratio between the engine pulley and the auger pulley goes up so you have more power going to the auger.

Well, It was delivered on Saturday and I must say, probably up there with the best designed and constructed pieces of equipment I ever bought!

Talldog: glad to hear!

Burat: How did you fasten that plastic sleeve? I just waxed the whole thing , in and out, not sure if that matters at all, but...

Jubol: Bought a Tiny Tach w/ hour meter. Its also resettable (not sure why).

Tubby: I thought the same thing looking at it but I would like to think Simplicity wouldn't put something on there that wasn't capable of dealing with the wet/salt etc. Time will tell.

Nibbler: sounds like a great design. Again, if this performs as well as advertised, wow!

Never thought I would say this, but, looking forward to a major snowstorm!

Thanks guys!

DonMac wrote:

My machine had two holes at the forward edge on the bottom of the chute.  I used those two holes and the bolt that is used to control the deflector on the top right side.  Before I tried to install the piece, I cut  approx. 18" across the piece of Wacky Karpet and folded it evenly across a piece of 2x4.  Using clamps and a propane torch, I warmed up the bends on each side of the 2x4 to get the plastic to conform to the shape.  I left it like that overnight and the next morning, it was much easier to work into the chute.  I fit the bottom so that it squeezed between the chute and the circular discharge hole collar.  There's lots of room in there and the plastic should drop in about 1/2 an inch.  Once I had it in there, I forced the plastic into the chute as far as I could get it.  The piece of 2x4 came  in handy for temporarily pressing the plastic into the chute while I used vice grips and clamps to hold the plastic in place.  Use a piece of cloth on the painted side when clamping so you don't damage the paint.  Once you have the piece in place, draw lines down the sides to shape it to match the chute and cut with scissors.  While you have it in there, mark the holes at the bottom and top of the chute.  I used a heated nail to melt through the plastic while I had it in place.  The top hole has a carriage bolt with a square shoulder.  I had a similar bolt of the same size, heated it and used that to melt a square into the plastic for that hole.  A square hole will ensure the bolt goes through the deflector control slot nice and straight.   Note that you will only need the three points to secure the liner if you have it properly fitted.  In addition to the small stainless steel bolts I used at the bottom of the chute, I made some plastic washers out of the same material.  I heated a short piece of 1/2 copper pipe and used it as a cookie cutter to cut out the washer blanks and melted a hole in the middle of them.   I used a piece of one inch copper pipe to make a big washer to put next to the lock nut for the deflector control bolt.  In addition to this modification, I riveted a 1/32" thick piece of stainless plate to the underside of the top of the deflector.  SS is pretty hard stuff and the piece I put in is already showing some scuffs with only 7 hours on the machine.  This might sound like a lot of work but it wasn't that bad.  Just make sure to fit the liner in good and tight to the bottom collar and after putting in the fasteners, it should stay there.   I used black plastic as a liner and the fit went so well, it looks factory.