Outdoor Power Equipment (Lawn Mowers, Snow Blowers, Chain Saws and more) Discussions

Take pity upon me. I've been lurking here, and I'm looking for some suggestions on a snowblower.

I've narrowed it down to four snowblowers (all around $900 to $1,000):

Cub Cadet, 10 hp, Tecumseh L-head, 28-inch

Husqvarna, 10.5 hp, Tecumseh OHV, 30-inch

Craftsman, 10.5 hp, Briggs OHV, 30-inch

Arien, 9 hp, Tecumseh L-head, 26-inch

The Husq and the Craftsman look to me to be made by the same manufacturers. The Sears guy told me that theirs is made by Murray. Yikes! I actually prefer the first three for ease of use. Of course, I'm aware of the Ariens reputation, though the 9-hp model isn't overly impressive.

Any thoughts? (My driveway is 25 by 50, and I live in Maine. Snowfally can be heavy, but the worst part is the pile at the end of the driveway that's caused by the snow plow!)

Thanks,

David

dsharp wrote:
I read the same thing about OHV being "quieter". I didn't notice a difference, they were all loud. I always wear at least ear muffs and almost always have plugs in as well. Damage to ears accumulates so you need to save them all the time.

Interesting side note. I to a rock concert and wore ear plugs. I tried taking them out once or twice and found that I could hear the music and the singing better with the plugs in, the group sounded better with the volume turned "down"..

dsharp wrote:

David,

The internals of the XS Aluminum gearcase are the same as the current Pro Cast Iron gearcase (although the Pro has the superior cast iron & carbon steel housing). The former revision of the Pro Cast Iron gearbox (the one without the Ariens logo on the front) had a pair of tapered roller bearings on the input shaft (924,XXX series units). These were unnecessary as they worked no better (or longer) than the current PM bearings and thrust collars. Wet sump/oil bath applications for PM bearings (bronze bushings) are hard to beat because of the hydrodynamic effects of leaching oil. The XS style gearboxes were designed to eclipse all others in robustness and benchmarked against the top competitive design . It will outlive the rest of the unit as long as it remains properly lubricated.

PK

Thanks for your response. I now feel even better about the purchase.  I've already checked out the part of the owners manual about changing the crank case lubrication. I think I can handle that. Too bad the warranty on the Tecumseh isn't as good as the overall machine warranty! Looks like two years? Oh well, it should last a long time as well with regular maintenance.

The beast was delivered today. Now I've got to clean some toys out of the garage to make room for it!

Happy election eve...

David

dsharp..

Nice purchase! You are going to be be amazed at the power of your machine!

I have an older 2003 1128DLE 12vdc model and love it! The newer machines are even more convenient with the trigger wheel lock, self-contained drift breakers, halogen light and the "quick stick" chute control. Even the drift breakers were optional when I bought my machine.

I recently moved into a very windy part of NE PA and realized the weight kit that I purchased 2 years ago will work as a counter balance for a protective cab. I am going to order one from my dealer as soon as I can confirm the correct Arien's part number.

These machines make you look forward to Winter. Good luck!!!

dsharp wrote:

David,

The engine does carry the 3 year warranty.

The gear case filler screw should be re-sealed with a generous amount of thread sealant each time it is removed. Be sure not to cross thread it when re-installing (it is a thread rolling screw). 

Also, don't lose any sleep about service lubrication unless you see evidence of leakage or a damaged casting. There's a good deal of gear lube inside (8 to 8.5 ounces). There'd need to be a very apparent leakage to lose enough lube to damage the gearbox under operation.

PK

PK:

Let me tap your font of information one more time  The instructions don't mention draining the gear case; just topping it off? Once you take the plug out, it seems to me you're going to lose most of it anyway (because the unit is in teh service position). Do you top it or drain it, or will it become obvious once I try it?

Looks like I'm going for a record here on the replies.

Tnx again

dsharp wrote:

The gearcase isn't meant to be serviced in the "service position". Kinda of ironic huh?

You should never need to replace the gear oil. The operational service life  and demands of the gearbox are not significant enough to break down a good EP gear oil (but I'm sure some people replace it for piece of mind, and possibly to check for shavings to indicate the general condition of the gear set). If you choose to check the level someday (you should, per the service schedule), the level of oil should simply be up to the filler screw hole when the unit is on a level surface (again, not in the service position).

PK

I'm confused as always. Tnx for straightening that out.

PK is THE Ariens Guru. He knows all, tells all. LISTEN to him WELL folks!

Marty FORMERLY MAJORXLR8N <------ bowing to the Ariens Guru