Outdoor Power Equipment (Lawn Mowers, Snow Blowers, Chain Saws and more) Discussions

I have an old snapper hi-vac, 5 hp Briggs engine.  I have replace the differential and now the drive plate has gone out.  Should keep repairing it or go for a new one? If I go for a new one, which engine?  There are 3 engines listed:

6.5-hp Briggs & Stratton Quantum
7-hp Briggs & Stratton Intek OHV
6-hp Kawasaki OHV

I have a pretty small lawn,  but also use the mower to suck up leaves in the fall

How much are the repairs going to cost you?

Well it depends on how old it is I guess. If your Snapper is 20 years old or older, than ya, go buy a new one cause you aint going to find parts for that thing anyway. If its only 10 years old, keep it and repair it. Kawasaki engines are top knotch by the way!

Terminator20 wrote:
Termy my old Snapper RER is about 33 years old and i dont have a problem finding anything for it. Im sure the walk behinds are the same way.

Welcome davec,

Snappers are generally a long life machine...so you have to ask yourself a few questions.  Is it in good enough shape to put some money into it?  Do I have the money for a new one?  If I repair this, what will be the next to go? and so on.

Model	HI-VAC Baggers
Style	Push or Self-propelled
Width (in.)	21
Engine Choices	6.5-hp Briggs & Stratton Quantum 7-hp Briggs & Stratton Intek OHV 6-hp Kawasaki OHV
Wheels	Plastic: 8” front, 10” rear
Starter	Recoil or electric (P217018BVE)

Either of these engines would be a good engine.  I'd probably prefer the Kawasaki engine, but that's because I know how well they work in small OPE applications.  (I work in a small engine repair shop).  We sell the Snappers here and really like them a lot, we also sell a lot of other makes, models, and brands.  So I'm sure that you will make the right decision.

If you have your heart set on a new machine then go for it, but if money is tight look hard at the old machine and see what it needs to be new again.

Hope this helps just a little.

Sherri

$28 for a new drive plate, $5-10? for a new belt.  I am just thinking, what is next? When do you bail out.  I got the mower from my son-in-law,  I think it has been used about 10 years, engine seems OK so I am leaning towards repair.  Any thoughts on what else can go wrong?

davec wrote:

Check  the rest of the mower because if it's in decent shape I would repair it for that cost, especially since the engine seems good. There's not much left that would be expensive to fix anyway.

I have a mid 70's or so Snapper self-propelled walk-behind.  The deck and the whole structure of the mower is in very good shape as is the paint.  The engine has seen better days, so I'll replace that and practically have a used mower in very good condition. 

Dave,
Drive disks are a pretty common repair on those.
Check the drive tire also....they are normal wear items.
Check all of the exposed bearings on the drive system....and on the wheel adjusters/axles...they run dry and depending on use, they sometimes start loosing thier $#%*.
Check the wheel treads....they have hollow core wheels and can get quite thin until they break through and split.
And if....this unit has been use with "Ninja" blade for any length of time....Check that the carb mounting bracket hasnt loosened. (You can grab the air filter housing and try and move it up and down.) That bracket has been know too loosen and break the intake tube.(running lean and sucking in dirt) The bracket mounting bolt can also break off into the engine...and it's a big expense too repair.
Getting parts is not a problem with those...OEM parts are still available....and lots of aftermarket stuff also that should be available for years too come.
If you could post your engine model, type and code (On the front of the starter housing, above the spark plug.) we can tell how old this unit is...which might help determine what will go next.
Posting the snapper model numbers (On top of the deck...behind the engine.) also helps. HTH.

davec wrote: I vote to repair the old one AND get a new one. That way you have a backup in case one is down for repairs. I'd probably go for the 6.5 Briggs, I'm not a big fan of Kawasaki (I know that puts me in the minority).

BL,

Thanks, carb mount seems fine.  I will grease all the bearings.  Before the drive plate bearing went South, I thought the engine sounded bad, but it must have been the bearing.  Now it sounds fine.  More pluses for keeping it.  The model is RP21500 and the purchase date is 1993.  BTW purchase price was $469, so adjusting for inflation, they are cheaper now.