Outdoor Power Equipment (Lawn Mowers, Snow Blowers, Chain Saws and more) Discussions

I called Ariens about my 1970 manufacture Sno Throw. The front part is 10995 and the back, "tractor" section is either #10942 or #10954.

I'm going to order the service manual for it, but was curious about the drive system. It has 4 speeds forward and one reverse. The forward speeds seem quite "direct" while reverse has some slippage built in and you can stop it readily.

I've read about the friction disk system, but this doesn't seem to have one? Not sure what I'm looking at in the exploded view (I'm spoiled with 3D solid modeling).

Also, are replacement decals available for this vintage of machine?

Finally, I have new skids (two sided) and they seem to be a slightly different orange, possibly because of the effects of 35 years aging. Does the dealer sell spray paint, or can I match it from another brand of  spray can?

TIA

Paint. there is a thread here on paint and various options. Ariens does sell spary paintt. 14.95 at the ope dealer.

solara wrote:
I think this is the thread

Thanks for the tip on the paint. Chevy Orange DE1620 for $.79 a can works for me!

I took the bottom cover off and there is indeed a drive plate and friction disk. The drive plate has a lip around the outside rim - is it built that way, or is it just worn down? Some wear after 35 years would be expected.

The friction wheel has some cracks running around the outside edge, so it looks like it should be replaced. I'll have to get in touch with Ariens about getting a service manual for it.

I'm going to look at a newer, more powerful used blower but  hope to start restoring this in early spring, before it's time to work on the boat.....

You may be able to download the manual and expolded parts diagram from

www.ariens.com

Garandman-

In my opinion, the manuals from Ariens re: your older machine are kind of lacking in details and description (parts described in the drive wheel R and R do not necessarily match those in the parts list).  

I posted instructions (with my additions) on another site a few months ago.  I still have these instructions.  Let me know if you would like them.  Replacing the drive wheel on the early  to mid 70s Ariens is much more involved compared to later models. 

Ralph

If you have them conveniently available, if you could post them or the link that would be great.

These are the instructions from the Ariens manual.  The part descriptions are kind of vague, but once you get into things, you should be able to figure it out.  The item descriptions in the instructions from Ariens don’t necessarily match the item descriptions in the exploded parts view, so that’s really what took the longest the first time I did this. 

Anyway, I’ve added a few of my comments where I remembered them.  It’s been a while since I replaced the disk on my SnoThro, so I can’t offer much more detail than what I have already added.  I used a general purpose Moly/Lithium grease for the sliding surfaces.  “Left” and “right” refer to the machine as if you were operating it. 

I can scan the manual pages and send them to you if it might help.  PM me and I will send them. 

 

1. Disconnect spark plug. 
2. I tilted my SnoThro forward for easier access, this may or may not work for you, depending on how much gas is in the tank. 
3. Remove bottom cover (two screws on the back come all the way out; two screws on the bottom have “keyhole” slots, just loosen these two).
4. Shift to second speed.
5. Remove the cotter pin and washer from the “shift connecting link” (this is the short link indirectly attached to the shift lever).
6. On the right-hand side, remove the two screws that secure the shift lever bracket to the frame, then remove the bracket from the frame.  Just let it hang out of the way. 
7. Remove the master link from the drive chain (this can be messy and a pain, try to set the chain so that the link is easily accessible.  Remove the chain.  It wasn’t easy getting back on in my situation. 
8. Remove the cotter pin from the right and left side “connecting brackets”.  These are short rods on either side of the machine.  These brackets will just hang down. 
9. Remove the cotter pin from the “fork shaft”.  This cotter pin is located on the left side of the machine- it should be visible just above the adjustment mechanism and below the left handlebar. 
10. Slide fork shaft to the left side of the frame (be careful not to slide fork shaft beyond bracket assembly) until the whole drive wheel assembly can rotate down and towards you. 
11. Hold the hex shaft in place with a wrench, then remove the five screws from the friction wheel hub. 
12. Hold the hex shaft again, then remove the hex nut from the right side of the hex shaft. 
13. Remove the four lock nuts from the bearing flange left side (these are the four locknuts near the chain side of the machine). 
14. Pull hex shaft to the left and remove friction wheel and friction wheel hub. 
15. You could also inspect the bearings inside both the left and right side bearing flanges at this point also.  Mine were a little loose three years ago, but I didn’t have opportunity at the time to replace them.  They seem to still be fine. 

 

Reassembly is basically the opposite.  Ensure that BOTH right and left connecting brackets are in position when you rotate the drive wheel assembly back into place. 

It probably wouldn’t hurt to clean the metal driven surface with some alcohol or similar to remove any grease while you’re in there. 

I lightly greased the sliding shaft parts while apart.  Wipe off any excess before reassembly. 

I also wiped some grease onto the chain (on the inside, where the sprockets contact the chain). 

Good Luck

Ralph

Thanks! That should do it, I hope, if not I'll email you.

Has anyone researched a Dupli-Color match for the Tecumseh (and handlebars) white?

On a related note, I'm starting to debate the wisdom of upgrading this old unit versus buying a newer one. Putting on a new engine, friction disk, and some other minor repairs etc will cost me about  $300 net (I can sell the old engine since it's still running). Or, I can sell this unit for about $200 and buy a newer used model. There are two ST824's in excellent condition in the paper for $700 and $750.  So it's $500 and no work versus $300 and some work, after which I'd still have a 35 year old snowblower with a new engine.

My dad bought this one new in 1970 so there's some nostalgic attachment.  Another option is to repair the necessities and just keep using it. But the newer models allow the auger to be stopped, while this model keeps them engaged all the time. So the new design seems safer.  I'd consider keeping it as is but don't have the room.

I took the engine and auger off this weekend as well as the bottom plate for a thorough inspection and cleaning. I have to admit it's built like a tank.  The gear housing in the auger is massive.

No urgency now as the "last" snowstorm turned to rain. It's possible we'll get more, as the famous "April Fool's  Day" storm of a few years back demonstrated.

Garandman,

I hear you loud and clear on safety...

I don't think 65 Mustangs came with air bags, but my 96 Neon does!  If you happen to have an old mustang laying around and don't like the safety features I'd be glad to do a "straight up" trade!