Outdoor Power Equipment (Lawn Mowers, Snow Blowers, Chain Saws and more) Discussions

I called Ariens about my 1970 manufacture Sno Throw. The front part is 10995 and the back, "tractor" section is either #10942 or #10954.

I'm going to order the service manual for it, but was curious about the drive system. It has 4 speeds forward and one reverse. The forward speeds seem quite "direct" while reverse has some slippage built in and you can stop it readily.

I've read about the friction disk system, but this doesn't seem to have one? Not sure what I'm looking at in the exploded view (I'm spoiled with 3D solid modeling).

Also, are replacement decals available for this vintage of machine?

Finally, I have new skids (two sided) and they seem to be a slightly different orange, possibly because of the effects of 35 years aging. Does the dealer sell spray paint, or can I match it from another brand of  spray can?

TIA

hello- I just sold a 1970 ( by what I was told) Ariens with a 7 hp motor and a 32" cut. It DID have the disk drive? maybe a second look is in order..but I certainly don't know, they may have had more than one variation- I just know mine did have the disk drive. 99% sure mine was a 1970 too. maybe the smaller ones were diff? I don't know? One of these great guys here will let you know- they are a super group here.      Geno

I think Parts Radar at the Ariens Web site has your machine listed with exploded parts charts. It looks like a disc drive.

Paint. there is a thread here on paint and various options. Ariens does sell spary paintt. 14.95 at the ope dealer.

solara wrote:
I think this is the thread

Thanks for the tip on the paint. Chevy Orange DE1620 for $.79 a can works for me!

I took the bottom cover off and there is indeed a drive plate and friction disk. The drive plate has a lip around the outside rim - is it built that way, or is it just worn down? Some wear after 35 years would be expected.

The friction wheel has some cracks running around the outside edge, so it looks like it should be replaced. I'll have to get in touch with Ariens about getting a service manual for it.

I'm going to look at a newer, more powerful used blower but  hope to start restoring this in early spring, before it's time to work on the boat.....

You may be able to download the manual and expolded parts diagram from

www.ariens.com

Garandman-

In my opinion, the manuals from Ariens re: your older machine are kind of lacking in details and description (parts described in the drive wheel R and R do not necessarily match those in the parts list).  

I posted instructions (with my additions) on another site a few months ago.  I still have these instructions.  Let me know if you would like them.  Replacing the drive wheel on the early  to mid 70s Ariens is much more involved compared to later models. 

Ralph

If you have them conveniently available, if you could post them or the link that would be great.

These are the instructions from the Ariens manual.  The part descriptions are kind of vague, but once you get into things, you should be able to figure it out.  The item descriptions in the instructions from Ariens don’t necessarily match the item descriptions in the exploded parts view, so that’s really what took the longest the first time I did this. 

Anyway, I’ve added a few of my comments where I remembered them.  It’s been a while since I replaced the disk on my SnoThro, so I can’t offer much more detail than what I have already added.  I used a general purpose Moly/Lithium grease for the sliding surfaces.  “Left” and “right” refer to the machine as if you were operating it. 

I can scan the manual pages and send them to you if it might help.  PM me and I will send them. 

 

1. Disconnect spark plug. 
2. I tilted my SnoThro forward for easier access, this may or may not work for you, depending on how much gas is in the tank. 
3. Remove bottom cover (two screws on the back come all the way out; two screws on the bottom have “keyhole” slots, just loosen these two).
4. Shift to second speed.
5. Remove the cotter pin and washer from the “shift connecting link” (this is the short link indirectly attached to the shift lever).
6. On the right-hand side, remove the two screws that secure the shift lever bracket to the frame, then remove the bracket from the frame.  Just let it hang out of the way. 
7. Remove the master link from the drive chain (this can be messy and a pain, try to set the chain so that the link is easily accessible.  Remove the chain.  It wasn’t easy getting back on in my situation. 
8. Remove the cotter pin from the right and left side “connecting brackets”.  These are short rods on either side of the machine.  These brackets will just hang down. 
9. Remove the cotter pin from the “fork shaft”.  This cotter pin is located on the left side of the machine- it should be visible just above the adjustment mechanism and below the left handlebar. 
10. Slide fork shaft to the left side of the frame (be careful not to slide fork shaft beyond bracket assembly) until the whole drive wheel assembly can rotate down and towards you. 
11. Hold the hex shaft in place with a wrench, then remove the five screws from the friction wheel hub. 
12. Hold the hex shaft again, then remove the hex nut from the right side of the hex shaft. 
13. Remove the four lock nuts from the bearing flange left side (these are the four locknuts near the chain side of the machine). 
14. Pull hex shaft to the left and remove friction wheel and friction wheel hub. 
15. You could also inspect the bearings inside both the left and right side bearing flanges at this point also.  Mine were a little loose three years ago, but I didn’t have opportunity at the time to replace them.  They seem to still be fine. 

 

Reassembly is basically the opposite.  Ensure that BOTH right and left connecting brackets are in position when you rotate the drive wheel assembly back into place. 

It probably wouldn’t hurt to clean the metal driven surface with some alcohol or similar to remove any grease while you’re in there. 

I lightly greased the sliding shaft parts while apart.  Wipe off any excess before reassembly. 

I also wiped some grease onto the chain (on the inside, where the sprockets contact the chain). 

Good Luck

Ralph

Thanks! That should do it, I hope, if not I'll email you.

Has anyone researched a Dupli-Color match for the Tecumseh (and handlebars) white?

On a related note, I'm starting to debate the wisdom of upgrading this old unit versus buying a newer one. Putting on a new engine, friction disk, and some other minor repairs etc will cost me about  $300 net (I can sell the old engine since it's still running). Or, I can sell this unit for about $200 and buy a newer used model. There are two ST824's in excellent condition in the paper for $700 and $750.  So it's $500 and no work versus $300 and some work, after which I'd still have a 35 year old snowblower with a new engine.

My dad bought this one new in 1970 so there's some nostalgic attachment.  Another option is to repair the necessities and just keep using it. But the newer models allow the auger to be stopped, while this model keeps them engaged all the time. So the new design seems safer.  I'd consider keeping it as is but don't have the room.

I took the engine and auger off this weekend as well as the bottom plate for a thorough inspection and cleaning. I have to admit it's built like a tank.  The gear housing in the auger is massive.

No urgency now as the "last" snowstorm turned to rain. It's possible we'll get more, as the famous "April Fool's  Day" storm of a few years back demonstrated.

Garandman,

I hear you loud and clear on safety...

I don't think 65 Mustangs came with air bags, but my 96 Neon does!  If you happen to have an old mustang laying around and don't like the safety features I'd be glad to do a "straight up" trade!

isnt there a lever to the side of the engine that disengages the mule belt..ie the blower. i beleive your machine is called a tractor and the front half the blower is an attachment. there also was a sno brush,wood splitter ,gen set .

and it should come out of gear.

later chris

RalphS wrote:
The shift rod comes down to a link, and the other end of that link conects at the top with a cotter pin (no washer). That's what you mean? And you disconnect it at the top?

Where is a good place to purchase parts online? Do you really have anything after shipping versus buying them from a local dealer?

I had to scratch my head for a minute trying to remember what I did.  Yes, it's the short linkage arm connected to the forked bracket (the shift linkage is at the other "fork". 

My Ariens had a washer under the cotter pin, and the Ariens instructions indicate this, but according the exploded parts view, it's not there.  Go figure. 

I hear you about whether or not it's worth repairing, although I am impressed how my 30+ year old machine compares to larger and newer machines in the neighborhood (one neighbor had his 50-ish wife shoveling last storm while he was tinkering with his two-year-old (insert your favorite hated blower name here) snowblower).  It wasn't an Ariens.   

As far as parts, I usually purchase from Zwicker's in Chelmsford.  They're not the closest to me, but they seem to be about 10%-20% cheaper than the closer dealer.  FYI, last time I was there they had several (about 10) used Toros and Ariens for sale.  They had a mid 70s Ariens 824 similar to mine for just under $500. 

Let me know if you have any more questions.  It looks like we're going to miss most of tonight's storm (only about 2" for us), maybe more for you in Southie. 

Good luck

Ralph

  RALPH S,

Was it a Toro or a Simplicity????

My OPE dealer dropped Toro snoblowers because of to many problems on the 2003-04 models .

                                                                                          Fred                                                   

RalphS thanks for the info. I just got a digital camera to replace my old one so I can start taking pictures. I'm also bidding on a 7.5 hp Intek Snow on eBay, if it goes over the amount I bid I'm ordering one from smallenginewarehouse instead - $295 plus shipping with electric start or a "scratch & dent" without electric start for $230. Shipping is $25.

Would Zwicker's have a service manual?  I'm an "RTFM" kind of guy.

Right now I'm in target of opportunity mode. If I find something newer that's reasonable I'll buy it and sell the old one. Otherwise I'll refurbish and repower the one we have, which has been pretty well kept up in the past.

Still debating if it's worth about $40 to replace the old knobbies / chains setup with new  Snow Hog tires. My  concern is that the new Snow Hog equipped units have much bigger wheels so they probably have a lot bigger contact patch.

Fred-

They were older Toros and Ariens.  The Ariens models were from about the mid 70s to late 80s, maybe early 90's. 

I don't know how old the Toros were, as I am not too familiar with them.  I would estimate mid 80s to early 90s. 

Most appeared to be priced about half of what an equivalent new model would cost, although not half of what it might have cost when IT was new. 

I don't know how true this is, but I was talking with a (different) dealer last week, and he said that dealers usually can't get rid of used snowblowers.  I would agree that the great majority of owners don't want to take a chance on a used piece of equipment, regardless of "heritage" or "lineage", so they minimize their downtime by getting new models. 

Most of my neighbors just get new ones every few years (if I did that, I would have about ten snowblowers by now).  I don't get rid of anything. 

Ralph

OK, assuming the image posts....

I have the snowblower nearly completely apart. Not only that, some of the parts are in different states.....

I got a new friction disk but haven't received the manual I ordered yet. So I've been checking various bits and pieces and startd to dissasemble it preparatory to replacing the friction disk.

But I'll be darned if I can figure out what the "connecting brackets" are?

Here's a slightly different view. You can see why it's being repainted......

Garandman wrote:

I hear ya' !!!

I buy used and new equipment for my own use... and it's usually the same with me... Fix ? Use as-is? New ? The brain spins !  Usually it woks out excellent...

Good luck...

Dave...

Above-mentioned images.

Fred-

That paint doesn't look that bad.  Wait until I post before and after pix of my '88. 

The "connecting brackets" are just short (maybe 4" -6" long, I can't remember) rods with a 90 degree bend in them- they are cotter-pinned into brackets inside the housing.  There is one on each side.  When you remove these "brackets", the drive assembly should kind of just rotate down and towards the back of the machine. 

I couldn't see them in the pix you posted.  I don't think the early 70's drives were all that different, but you may not have them.  When I originally was working on my '74, I couldn't see how to get at those 4 little nuts holding the bearings in- once I disconnected these brackets, access was great.  

Let me know if you need any help- like I mentioned before, the manual can be a little confusing.  I can take some pix, but I have never gotten around to figuring out how to post them.  I can PM them to you if you want. 

Good Luck.

Ralph

My motor came in today. It's marked 7.75 hp - ?

Of course, now that I'm committed to  this project I won an older  Ariens 824 with three year old engine  for $227 on eBay....

I got the manual today.  A 1970 5 hp tractor is model #10965 and the prcedure is different:

1. Remove bottom cover.
2. Remove  connecting link from chain and remove train.
3. Remove left wheel
4. Remove plate on left side of frame.
5. Remove locknut on right end of hex shaft.
6. Remove the four locknuts holding the bearing flange on the left hand side of the carrier.
7. Pull the hex shaft out of the right hand bearing  and the left hand bearing out of the frame.
8. Remove hair pin from fork shaft through the slot on the right hand rear corner of the frame.
9. Hold clutch handle up and remove the fork shaft out of the right side of the frame.
10. Remove cotter pin from shaft link.
11. Remove friction wheel assembly.
12. Remove snap ring, bearing and fork from the friction wheel hub.
13. Remove the five screws holding the friction wheel to the hub.

Make sure you clean the plate that the disc rides on with brake cleaner. then i would scuff it up with fine sand paper to remove and glaze before putting it back together.

TheKneebiter wrote:
What it originally rough?

I was surprised at the difference between the old friction disk and the new one, which has a semi-circular cross-section.

no, it was always smooth. but over time it can build up a glaze that could make the tire slip. by sanding it you will make it a tad rough and give the tire a nice platter to ride on.

Got mine out last night. The disk is in pretty good shape, no real glaze but I buffed it a bit anyway.

I've taken apart the entire tractor to repaint the housing and check all the parts while I wait or the welder.. After 35 years of New England winters, most of the keys are worn and need rplacing. The earings were all in good shape. The bushings (bronze) that the axle shaft passes through were worn almost  completely through - I was pleased to see they're replaceable. The Woodruff key that locks the gear to the drive axle was also beat up a bit.

Very ruggedly built machine, overall, I'm impressed.