Abby’s Guide > Outdoor Power Equipment (Lawn Mowers, Snow Blowers, Chain Saws and more) > Discussions > Spit, Sputter, Cough,Blemph
Outdoor Power Equipment (Lawn Mowers, Snow Blowers, Chain Saws and more) Discussions |
|
mml4
Snow is good, Deep snow is better!
Joined: Dec 31, 2003
Points: 544
|
|
Spit, Sputter, Cough,Blemph
Original Message Feb 5, 2005 8:17 am |
|
These are the sounds issued forth from my beloved Tecumseh engines equipped with fixed Jets. I don't own one but my friend does on a machine I recomended and he constantly rags me about it. In an effort to get him off my back I have researched the following and these are the results: 1) The replacement carb for a medium frame Tecumseh is 632334A ( this is a part # that replaces a disontinued part but the blow up diagram of the replacement shows an adjustable main jet. Therefore I ASSUME it is adjustable. 2) The carburetor repair kit for this model is 632347 I was able to secure a blowup diagram of this carb and the list of parts in the repair kit. It APPEARS all of the main jet parts are present in the kit.I NEED VERIFICATION If this includes the needle and the jet. If one were to remove the fixed jet from the current carb which I believe is the green plastic tube held in by O-rings and replace it with the adjustable jet and needle from the #632347 repair kit would it work? Could you retrofit the new bowl with the adjustable assembly or would you have to buy a new bowl? If anybody could verify or correct my assumptions I would be most appreciative. Marc Just for the record -theHonda GX series engine on my power washer made the same spit, sputter,cough,blemph sounds due to it's fixed jet carb. Honda has addressed this problem by producing a line of altitude related jets. Another words if you want to richen up a Honda fixed jet carb parts are available. The carb will still be fixed jet but at a richer setting.
This message was modified Feb 5, 2005 by mml4
SnapperV210P,Toro22177,TroyBilt42010Snowthrower,Craftsman Shredder,American Turbo Pressure Washer HondaGX200,Stihl011Saw,EchoPas260Trimmer Edger,EchoPB602Blower,EchoHCR150Hedge Clipper
|
mml4
Snow is good, Deep snow is better!
Joined: Dec 31, 2003
Points: 544
|
|
Re: Spit, Sputter, Cough,Blemph
Reply #42 Feb 14, 2005 3:15 am |
|
Hi Guys- Been mulling over the question of hp ratings for a few days as this thread has developed and wonder if we really want our engines turning at max hp (rpm) all the time. Certainly we don't use our auto engines at max hp when we are going 30mph. If most of the time my blower will do a satisfactory job at 90% of it's rated hp. and then when I hit the EOD the governor kicks in and allows for the development of max hp I have no problem. Do we really want the wear associated with running at max hp. all the time? The other issue of course is are we really being charged for something that is there anyway when we buy the higher hp. model of the same displacement?Auto engines of the same displacement with the same heads etc. have been rated at different hp. by changing the carb or ignition or "chip" or exhaust manifold or distributor as long as I can remember. You don't need me to explain to you it's a matter of marketing. But in a way we as consumers benefit. I am looking to purchase a unit for my son and took a look at the Simplicity line. They offer two nice units built on the same 24 inch frame. One is a 9hp. and the other is a 10hp. The difference in MSRP is $200. I assume the two engines are the same displacement Briggs with different tuning . The more expensive unit offers as standard equiptment other features such as light, handwarmers etc. along with the "larger engine". My point is how much more would that unit cost if the engine was a completely different model? The manufacturers I believe would limit the # of hp choices available because the cost of producing so many "different" models is not warranted by the size of the market . If they can't increase hp through tuning then we aren't going to have the number of choices we now enjoy. Would you want to have to choose between an 8hp and 13hp with nothing in the middle when you go to buy your next machine? Someone PLEASE send some snow to Long Island, Marc
SnapperV210P,Toro22177,TroyBilt42010Snowthrower,Craftsman Shredder,American Turbo Pressure Washer HondaGX200,Stihl011Saw,EchoPas260Trimmer Edger,EchoPB602Blower,EchoHCR150Hedge Clipper
|
Richie
Bring On The White Stuff
Location: Long Island, New York
Joined: Dec 12, 2003
Points: 562
|
|
Re: Spit, Sputter, Cough,Blemph
Reply #43 Feb 14, 2005 7:51 am |
|
Hi Guys- Been mulling over the question of hp ratings for a few days as this thread has developed and wonder if we really want our engines turning at max hp (rpm) all the time. Certainly we don't use our auto engines at max hp when we are going 30mph. If most of the time my blower will do a satisfactory job at 90% of it's rated hp. and then when I hit the EOD the governor kicks in and allows for the development of max hp I have no problem. Do we really want the wear associated with running at max hp. all the time? Hi Marc, I found your comment very interesting. I can tell you that I would never want my engine turning at the maximum RPM range required to achieve the HP rating of my engine, at least that fictious RPM manufacturers rate them at. The fact is that our engines NEVER achieve it, not even close. They are set to run at a much lower RPM, and governor or not, they will never even spike to the peak HP RPM. You made another interesting comment about the governor kicking in at the EOD. I always assumed when I use my snowblower in very deep snow, such as what Long Island had not long ago, when I hear the engine under load, is when I figured the governor is doing the job it was designed for. With that said, you have to remember that on my machine I have a tachometer. While in use, I'm looking at it and I found that even with my governor reset to turn the no-load engine speed at 3,400 RPM's, under load, the engine will drop down to say, 2,900 RPM's, which is now very far below the engine rated HP. What this means to me is that at 2,900 RPM's, this supposedly 8 HP engine is making something in the 6 HP range. But if you look at torque, it was being held at 2,900 RPM, which is the peak torque range. This is why recently I started putting more concern into the torque rating rather than the HP the engine is rated for. The measure of horsepower depends on torque, the amount of real work that an engine is capable of producing. Real work to me is EOD. Without torque, how could these machines stay running when you hit the EOD? Another point is that if you look carefully at the LawnBoy ad I posted above, you'll notice something in the fine print that I myself discovered when I installed an old style adjustable carburetor on my snowblower. "As configured to meet safety, emission, and operating requirements, the actual horsepower on this class of lawn mower will be significantly lower"
That statement gives credible proof that the emission carburetors rob important power from the engine, any OPE engine. Yet, those engine performance charts do NOT reflect that fact. What LawnBoy is telling you is that the rated 6.5 HP engine is significantly lower. I haven't seen a single disclaimer on any of the engine performace charts stating that they reflect the very lean condtion caused by the emission carburetors. Again, the consumer being taken advantage of. Bottom line, purchase a snowblower or any other piece of OPE for the options you feel you want, NOT for the engine size. I myself walked into the Toro dealer to purchase the 826 LE. However, that model didn't have the power steering feature, which was most important to me, so I purchased the 828 LXE instead. Add to the fact the carburetor modification I made, costing $74.00, gave me a far better running machine, still costing less than the 1028 LXE, and would run rings around it. Fight back by getting the lower rated HP engine and let the manufacturers sit on the high end powered machines. Help send the correct message back to them. BTW Marc, I ordered some snow for us in the coming weeks
Richie
|
Ben07
The more you know about something, the more you find there is to know.
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Joined: Feb 26, 2004
Points: 178
|
|
Re: Spit, Sputter, Cough,Blemph
Reply #44 Feb 14, 2005 8:16 am |
|
Hi Guys- Certainly we don't use our auto engines at max hp when we are going 30mph. and then when I hit the EOD the governor kicks in and allows for the development of max hp I have no problem.
Hi MM14..
A car is different because you vary the speed to the load or speed you choose, If you want to Run ia at peakRPM, on a straight say a straight road you could do it all day. However if it had a governor on it, it would not let you.. I know you know peak does not mean Red Line. However a governor will never let one of these machines run at peak if the governor setting is at a lower RPM than peak. The governor only tries to keep the machine from slowing down (remember I said "Try" there for the slown process") when under a load. It also keeps the machine from turning higher than the goverened RPM. It never shoots for more RPM. It dumps more gas into it, but it never tries to exceede the rpm. If you manually excede the RPM by forcing the throttle open It will do the same as the load condition, however in reverse it will lower the throttle back. Analagy like driving on a 65 mph highway in 4th gear, standard trans. you come to a hill, steep going up the hill you got to floor the accelerator to try and maintain the speed. you do that however speed drops to 40 , now even if you are able to maintain 40 you are going to heat the motor up real fast. You have an alternative, you can downshift , using the gearing advantage bring the car back up to 65, only difference is the motor is now running at a higher rpm , closer to peak etc. However with the governor setting you don't have the same choice, cause it only opens the accelerator to maintain an rpm. In the same analagy as above now with a governor in the motor, The same thing would have happened at first the car would have dropped speed to 40 mph. so you do a quick down shift. you will never get the car back up to 65 mph, cause it takes more RPM's than the goverened RPM. (so you will have this big powerfull engine crawling up a hill like it's a wimp, ) The whole point here is, once you put a governor on it, you got to look at it differently. there could now be anything under that hood of that car. A weak engine to a strong engine,. A lot of it is how much they want to charge for it, they make a one size fits all . get their manufacturing cost advantage there and then label the engine as the price will bear. This can all be summarized by saying there is a fudge factor involved in how these engines are related to power caused by the way they can and are required to rate their engines. The manufacturer takes advantage of it to reduce their manufacturing costs. And to get into the pockets with fatter wallets. And to help the EPA gain controll, they go to the same country clubs. Now the assasins are coming to my house as we speak. That's ok they can pry it out of my cool dead hands to quote C. Heston. So after all that has been discussed on this subject How bout we get a feel for other's opinions Make a quick post , in agreement or not. It would be interesting Ben07
This message was modified Feb 14, 2005 by Ben07
Ariens 8524LE, Toro CCR2000, Jacobsen S-B S-blowers, Generac 10hp Gen-convt. to N.G., 5 L-boys(D's F's &Dura( 74,77,80,88,00), Antiq. 1960 AYP 20 in. mag w 3.5 Tech mower. Ryan/Ryobi gas Trim. AYP 205 gas blwr. Mac c-saw,Toro E-blwr, 2 Weed-E e. stg. trims. outboards, boats, util trail, 2 Jeeps
|
Marshall
As Long As There Are Tests, There Will Be Prayer In Public Schools. ;- )
Joined: Sep 16, 2002
Points: 7730
|
|
Re: Spit, Sputter, Cough,Blemph
Reply #46 Feb 14, 2005 12:00 pm |
|
Let me qualify that a little bit. Yes, I would like to see engine manufacturers have the true HP ratings of the engines, advertised. What I don't really care about is a class action law suit, I have no need for that myself. As long as the spec's are published and easily found, I'm good to go.
|
Ben07
The more you know about something, the more you find there is to know.
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Joined: Feb 26, 2004
Points: 178
|
|
Re: Spit, Sputter, Cough,Blemph
Reply #47 Feb 14, 2005 12:06 pm |
|
. If they can't increase hp through tuning then we aren't going to have the number of choices we now enjoy. Would you want to have to choose between an 8hp and 13hp with nothing in the middle when you go to buy your next machine? Someone PLEASE send some snow to Long Island, Marc
Actually that is what some of us are saying you may be actually getting. less choices than actually implied by the seller
A choice between 8 and a 13. (over 50 percent in BHP between the two almost identical engine. however the rasting is at a much higher operating rpm that the machine can't run at with a governor) Big bucks in the differences, sure some more features, which does kind of camoflague and confuse the issue, There is still a big free percent left over for the engine charge going back to the MFG for the low cost internal slight carb differences. also when you run them under load and rpm, drops to peak torque RPM and you will find that there is no where close to a 50 plus percent increase in power between them there. So do you actually have like five choices or do you only have in essence only like two? Ben07
This message was modified Feb 14, 2005 by Ben07
Ariens 8524LE, Toro CCR2000, Jacobsen S-B S-blowers, Generac 10hp Gen-convt. to N.G., 5 L-boys(D's F's &Dura( 74,77,80,88,00), Antiq. 1960 AYP 20 in. mag w 3.5 Tech mower. Ryan/Ryobi gas Trim. AYP 205 gas blwr. Mac c-saw,Toro E-blwr, 2 Weed-E e. stg. trims. outboards, boats, util trail, 2 Jeeps
|
Ben07
The more you know about something, the more you find there is to know.
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Joined: Feb 26, 2004
Points: 178
|
|
Re: Spit, Sputter, Cough,Blemph
Reply #48 Feb 14, 2005 12:14 pm |
|
Let me qualify that a little bit. . As long as the spec's are published and easily found, I'm good to go. 100 percent agreement (relavent specs)
This message was modified Feb 14, 2005 by Ben07
Ariens 8524LE, Toro CCR2000, Jacobsen S-B S-blowers, Generac 10hp Gen-convt. to N.G., 5 L-boys(D's F's &Dura( 74,77,80,88,00), Antiq. 1960 AYP 20 in. mag w 3.5 Tech mower. Ryan/Ryobi gas Trim. AYP 205 gas blwr. Mac c-saw,Toro E-blwr, 2 Weed-E e. stg. trims. outboards, boats, util trail, 2 Jeeps
|
jubol
Location: Dover, De
Joined: Oct 3, 2003
Points: 1558
|
|
Re: Spit, Sputter, Cough,Blemph
Reply #49 Feb 14, 2005 12:24 pm |
|
Richie, How much of a HP increase did you think you got with your new carb on your 8HP engine?? Also, what is the part number on the carb, or is it top seceret?? Fred
Husqvarna STE927(11.5HP) snowblower, MTD Pro Series 18/42 Lawnmower, MTD 6.5 HP Self Prop Lawn Mower, Weedeater 1500 Blower, Web Gensis 2000
|
Richie
Bring On The White Stuff
Location: Long Island, New York
Joined: Dec 12, 2003
Points: 562
|
|
Re: Spit, Sputter, Cough,Blemph
Reply #50 Feb 14, 2005 1:19 pm |
|
Richie, How much of a HP increase did you think you got with your new carb on your 8HP engine?? Also, what is the part number on the carb, or is it top seceret?? Fred Hi there Fred, I'd love to answer your question but I can't since I don't have access to a Dyno. I'd love to find one and run the engine with the original carb and then the adjustable version that is on it now. Any comment on my part would be completely subjective based on my opinion, which means nothing. I've been trying to keep these posts as objective and scientific as possible. As stated on one of the other treads, I will say the engine runs so much better not being starved of fuel and I have not been able to get the engine to surge at all. Furthermore, if you take that disclaimer that LawnBoy posts, it would seem that emission carbs may affect power in some way. The difference is a leaned out carburetor as opposed to one that can be metered correctly and allow the engine to run well. I also don't want to confuse the horse power / torque issue, which is something else. As for the carburetor, the actual part number is, TEC-632334A, and the rebuild kit for it which includes the adjustable main nozzle (bowl nut) is, 632347, and costs about $12.27 plus s/h. Hope this helps and sorry if I had to be somewhat vague.
Richie
|
|
|