Outdoor Power Equipment (Lawn Mowers, Snow Blowers, Chain Saws and more) Discussions

Went to replace a carb I recently cleaned up, only because I thought having a new carb would be an assurance that the blower would be good to go and reliable when on demand.

Bought what was supposed to be an original Tecumseh part on Amazon, but received one made by Ruxing. 

Does this brand work OK, or should I replace with the real OEM? 

kdez,  Short tips on your rebuild.  Pay attention to the "F" designation on the carb body, it dictates whether the gasket or diaphragm go against the bottom plate.  Sand lightly or wire wheel the bottom plate as clean as you can get it.  It's junk metal and won't shine, but you can't have any white powdery residue looking crap left, especially at the edges of the gasket/diaphragm engagement surface!
Make sure the metal side of the diaphragm is up toward the needle valve, otherwise when you blow the air into the primer line it won't go up and hit the needle valve to release fuel. 
Don't know on your specific one, but the main jet nut size is likely 9/32" and a fat, cheap socket won't fit right and you can strip it easy........I say from experience :-)
When you remove the main jet/needle seat make sure the washer (usually part #56 in diagrams) comes out with the old stuff.  If not, look around in there, it'll drive you nuts upon reassembly if it it's still in there!
Pay special attention when "probing" with wires or blowing air INTO or OUT OF the main fuel inlet.  There is a check valve in there between the hose nipple and carb body.   On the oldie style Toro S-200/620 carbs, that part is no longer available.  You can kill it easy with a wire probe thinking you are feeling blockage........I say from experience :-)

jtclays,

thanks so much for the tips!  i will let you know how I make out.

trouts2 wrote:

Thanks!