Axis

JB Weld!

It can be thinned with acetone or lacquer thinner, and I've found an unneeded credit card to be the perfect applicator.  I'll go that route, and then do a few coats of some leftover high gloss marine epoxy paint. 

Thanks for the great idea.  The wife will be happy that I'm not using anything from the kitchen on this one.

Using a circa 1968 Ariens.  The inner part of the chute, especially at the angle, is a rusty and heavily dimpled area. 

What's good to coat the inner part of the chute with so snow, especially slushy EOD snow, won't stick to and clog it.   Am I better off using a really slippery high gloss paint first, just coating the rust with silicone... what's a good prep and finish?

I've read of after market impeller kits that'll throw snow a great distance and imagine that'd help, but that's a lot to add to this old guy.

Thanks.

Add me to the list.

Bought the same model as the OP, US version and it's now two years old.  Finally had some snow so first time used.

It backfired shutting down and even changing speeds from, what's it called now.... rabbit speed to tortoise speed idle.

Will this damage the engine, or just scare the heck out of whoever's using it?

It's written that the open end of the float needle faces toward the air in side.  Something about possibly binding if it's reversed.

Funny, you're having a good time with the rubber tip needles because the OEM design failed, I'm treating the seat of the OEM with respect (blew air into it, not against it while cleaning; the reverse of what trouts2 wrote but the result is the same) because it's never failed and look at the rubber tip design with trepidation of change.

Started it up today for the fun of it.  One pull!  Then I underchoked it for a quick stall but still started right up again.  As written above, it's a fussy little bugger.

How can I tell if the engine has points or is solid state?

First and foremost, thanks for the help.

trouts2:  Did just about everything you wrote and suspect the issue was in your #4, the two small holes in the throat.  I could readily probe one, but not the other.  It took a stiff thin diameter steel wire (.016, I think) bent to 90 degrees to do both.  That's a concern, that I pushed something into the welch cavity and it may come back to haunt.  And I later read that the float spring is directional and don't know if I should, but probably will regardless just to check things out, make sure it's on with the open end facing the right direction.

After reading the comments posted, I took a look at the after market fuel valve needle with the rubber tip side by side with a OEM part.  It looks to me, and I could be wrong, that the needle with the rubber tip (can it be called a needle if it has a rubber tip?)  is stamped or molded with an OK looking but crude stem, while the OEM needle appears machined with much more precision.  It's just the retired engineer in me being curious.

I'm fully capable of handling the carb repair, and would have been all set if it came with instructions.  It's all the questioning that I do, unlike the typical DIY'er, that's my stumbling block.

After reading all here, am tempted to keep the now working OEM carb in place and have the unused Chinese one on the shelf should it ever be needed.  I'd also like to find out how old this motor is, and if has points or solid state coil.

I saw one on Ebay with the Stens name advertised, and the Ruixing trademark on it in the photos.  Is it the same?

Cheers.