Outdoor Power Equipment (Lawn Mowers, Snow Blowers, Chain Saws and more) Discussions

Went to replace a carb I recently cleaned up, only because I thought having a new carb would be an assurance that the blower would be good to go and reliable when on demand.

Bought what was supposed to be an original Tecumseh part on Amazon, but received one made by Ruxing. 

Does this brand work OK, or should I replace with the real OEM? 

>>and have the unused Chinese one on the shelf

    Or return it and get a used OEM from a dealer.    Some dealers keep a box full. 

>>I'd also like to find out how old this motor is, and if has points or solid state coil.

    Solid state.  The coil is above the flywheel  on models which use the Tecumseh carb that crosses to the Stens number. 

Sort of interesting side note is the Stens part is listed for 8 & 9hp’s and the OEM number it replaces 8hps only.

>>I recently read a reference in “Small Gas Engine Repair” by Paul Dempsey, to be sure there is a fuel shut off if the seat is elastomer as they leak.

    Weird as that basically means stretchy,  rubbery, returns to it’s original shape…    There are many  millions of Tecumseh engines out there with rubber like seats that are fine and most for many years.  Given the low presssure of the float I doubt a hard seat would work. 

>> I’ve read that there is an orientation to the clip that holds the needle, however I can’t figure out why this is?

   The clip points to the throat opening.    I’ve installed both ways and never noticed a difference. 

Trouts,

I have to rebuild a diaphragm type carb this weekend.  Ive never done that before.  Any resources or tricks you can point me towards?

It is a tecumseh 632117

Dan

   No real advice.  For diaphragm type I usually don't get a kit, just the diaphragm. 

   Exploded view of that carb:

   http://www.partstree.com/parts/?lc=tecumseh&mn=CA-632117&dn=CASERIES_071632117-CA

   Decent service manual on diaphragm types at the Walboro site:

   http://www.walbro.com/servicemanuals.aspx

kdez,  Short tips on your rebuild.  Pay attention to the "F" designation on the carb body, it dictates whether the gasket or diaphragm go against the bottom plate.  Sand lightly or wire wheel the bottom plate as clean as you can get it.  It's junk metal and won't shine, but you can't have any white powdery residue looking crap left, especially at the edges of the gasket/diaphragm engagement surface!
Make sure the metal side of the diaphragm is up toward the needle valve, otherwise when you blow the air into the primer line it won't go up and hit the needle valve to release fuel. 
Don't know on your specific one, but the main jet nut size is likely 9/32" and a fat, cheap socket won't fit right and you can strip it easy........I say from experience :-)
When you remove the main jet/needle seat make sure the washer (usually part #56 in diagrams) comes out with the old stuff.  If not, look around in there, it'll drive you nuts upon reassembly if it it's still in there!
Pay special attention when "probing" with wires or blowing air INTO or OUT OF the main fuel inlet.  There is a check valve in there between the hose nipple and carb body.   On the oldie style Toro S-200/620 carbs, that part is no longer available.  You can kill it easy with a wire probe thinking you are feeling blockage........I say from experience :-)

jtclays,

thanks so much for the tips!  i will let you know how I make out.

trouts2 wrote:

Thanks!