Outdoor Power Equipment (Lawn Mowers, Snow Blowers, Chain Saws and more) Discussions

This unit is NEW used it for about 2 1/2 Hr. Two times while in 1st gear going along it chattered for about 3-4 sec, Then it moved along fine.

Then while I was at the end of the drive w/ 8-10" of snow in 1st gear it stoped moving, The wheel's were not spining it just stoped moving.

I put it to rev. It moved in Rev great, then back to 1st & it went along fine till it did it again.I did the same move Rev went backwards then it was fine again.

I spoke with my dealer he said O just a cable adj. I will send someone to your house to adj it. Well when I got home it was gone. they took it in to make repairs. Just wondering if anyone had this happen to them.

My Dealer seems great he has been in bussiness for a long time My first buy from them, so far GREAT SERVICE.

Brent

Jonathan wrote:

Seems to me I heard this same thing about two weeks ago from someone?

We don't know yet for sure what TheBuck101s problem is. I don’t know if there was a similar post re: the 926DLE (it has some great reviews), but there have been a number of complaints regarding some Ariens related to adjustments that one would thought would have been done at the factory and/or at the dealer. This is why I didn’t give a 5 star rating for mine. I saw an Ariens 1336LE at a Home Depot recently with a traction drive clutch cable so slack that I think it would have had the same problems that Buck describes assuming it went out the door that way.

Hi Buck

It does indeed sound like the traction clutch cable adjustment and maybe a slight adjustment at the shift selection rod. (The gear shift) However I noticed another thing that can add to this situation that I will try to briefly explain.  Doing it briefly is the problem.  If you are not interested in the explanation, I will give you my own personal summary suggestion.  I would try and stay out of first gear forward as much as possible when using the machine.  only go as low as second forward. I am not saying not to use it at all, cause it works great for like loading it up on ramps etc.  Not the same for 1st reverse,  I as of now don't see any problem with 1st reverse.

What I found is that even with both properly  adjusted that when I would tip the machine up off the ground, I was double checking my adjustments to ensure I was not as they say  "riding the clutch." (same as saying no contact between the two drive surfaces, friction disc and drive pulley when dis-engaged)  What would happen is 1st fwd would slip or not move. I would lower the machine and the tires would start turning and I couldn't stop the machine from moving forward,   No problem in 1st reverse as it is made to have a little higher ratio(thus is further away from the center when it grabs)  So I went thru a long process to see how it really ticks.  I adjusted the shift points one at a time each way and checked speed slippage on and off the ground in 1st forward and reverse.  I am going to short cut here as I am probably going to get a lot of well maybe you were one turn off here or there etc etc yada yada.  Trust me I did a lot of organized experimenting in order comparing to prev adj and comparing to the opposite gears, along with their ratio's.

The conclusion I came to is there is always an accumulated amount of free play at all levels of the tranny, the shafts the bearings, there is also flex in the housings (like when I was tipping it by lifting the handle bars.) etc.  I believe that the whole set up is designed to take up the play and work properly when the weight of the machine is transposed on the wheels.  also I believe it only is important and comes into primary effect in 1st forward. 

This seems to only come into play in 1st forward.  The reason for it is it is the lowest ratio of all (rides closest to the inefficient centering/scrubbing point of the drive disc)  Also the way these things apply their pressure to the mating surfaces is by a pivot point. which is a angle leverage thingy so a good engineer would design any shored up play to add to that application, not decrease it in the forward gears as they are the only gears that are going to operating the machine when it is throwing weight bearing snow etc. 

Thus why the problem at the EOD.  Lot of weight in that slush, fills the machine up, doesn't throw as well.  Weight in the front of the machine in that situation takes a lot of weight off the drive wheels cause they are in the rear.  

The reason I went thru this is I have seen a lot of these drive questions come and get tweaked to some fine results,  but a lot of em keep coming back etc.  So for any of you out there I would suggest adopting a general rule of thumb to try and stay out of 1st forward as much as possible  after you properly adjust.  I also think it will decrease wear on the friction plate.  also won't have to do those periodic tweaking adjustments as much

Ben07

In the same line of questions;  i have done all of the  ajustments except move the attachment pulley,.  the interlock ONLY works when the machine is on.  it used to work if i slammed down on the attacment handle.

in my imagination it would work like a games of "hands down. "

when that attachment clutch was engaged and then the traction belt , some part  in the traction assembly would hold down the attachment handle. 

where does this take place. or what do i do to adjust it?

ps this on an le not on a dle.  (and my :"dealer" is HD.

On my 8524 the action takes place right under the handlebar shroud.  Like right at your belly button when standind behind it.    Your interlock only lets you free one hand  the right one.  .. just mentioning this as if you let go on the left handle only it will lift up and disengage the thing.  Is there an adjustment  , don't know   now .. but you will see it under that shroud..  i think two big cam lobes  the size of an automobile  camshaft lobe..  Impressive  hardware/periferials to say the least.  It sort of looked like the cams were hardened by their color.  probably my imagination as they may just have some type of protective coating on them.  And to tell you the truth I just peaked under there  for a second last year  and all I said was well that is about as thorough and heavy duty as you can get, probably never gonna have a problem there.  So maybe there is something you need to adjust and I didn't notice it at a fast glance.or something that is coming loose.  

I also don't think my interlock, (maybe it is different than yours.)  works in connnection other parts/operations of the machine.  other than itself and the two handle levers.  (simultaneously with other things but not directly connected)  So I would confine my search to that area first.  maybe a loose pivot pin at the handle, a not so noticable bent engaugement lever , maybe wear or a burr in the locking tab.  The reason I mentioned the hardening process is if you got some kind of pre-mature wear, sometimes parts can miss touching all the bases in the manufacturing routing process at a mfg plant.  In this case maybe the hardening process.

I don’t see anything in my manual regarding adjusting the handle interlock. I’d have to look underneath the dash to see if there is any apparent adjustment that can be made. When you have engaged the attachment clutch (right handle) and the drive clutch (left) handle, you should be able to let go of the right handle and have the attachment clutch still engaged. The right handle may come up a bit, but the auger and impeller should be working at full speed. If you are having to slam down the right handle, perhaps you do need to readjust the attachment belt which might involve moving in the idler pulley a little bit.

Hi...

"Well when I got home it was gone. they took it in to make repairs."


Hope it was the OPE dealer who took it !  


Dave...

ben07. i will look under the dash. i though there was  nothing (not much)there --just cabling and the light.. glad u understood my question.. may also loook on parts radar.

jonathan, i have  made the adjustments ad nauseum (this will send robmints to the dictionary) and nothing seems to help it.

	14	00184751 Add to pick list	Bracket, Retaining			1	each
	15	02492100 Add to pick list	Cam, Interlock

from the parts radar. i will look at the cam interlock whis is as u say beno7 rt under the dash

IM glad to get all of the input from everyone. Just reading your posts I have learned a lot. My machine is still at the dealer, It should have been done & in my garage by today. I will ahve to call them tomorrow, (I had Leauges tonight).

I wanted all the input I could get so when they tell me what they found I will know what they are takling about.

I was always told you BS the baker you might get a BUN

You BS me you don't get NONE

Thanks

Brent Franklin