Outdoor Power Equipment (Lawn Mowers, Snow Blowers, Chain Saws and more) Discussions

This unit is NEW used it for about 2 1/2 Hr. Two times while in 1st gear going along it chattered for about 3-4 sec, Then it moved along fine.

Then while I was at the end of the drive w/ 8-10" of snow in 1st gear it stoped moving, The wheel's were not spining it just stoped moving.

I put it to rev. It moved in Rev great, then back to 1st & it went along fine till it did it again.I did the same move Rev went backwards then it was fine again.

I spoke with my dealer he said O just a cable adj. I will send someone to your house to adj it. Well when I got home it was gone. they took it in to make repairs. Just wondering if anyone had this happen to them.

My Dealer seems great he has been in bussiness for a long time My first buy from them, so far GREAT SERVICE.

Brent

It does sound like it just needs an adjustment which isn't that unusual after the first few hours use. Some dealers check the adjustments for the drive and auger/impeller belts before they deliver; some don't. Your warranty should cover it if anything is defective.

Jonathan wrote:

Seems to me I heard this same thing about two weeks ago from someone?

We don't know yet for sure what TheBuck101s problem is. I don’t know if there was a similar post re: the 926DLE (it has some great reviews), but there have been a number of complaints regarding some Ariens related to adjustments that one would thought would have been done at the factory and/or at the dealer. This is why I didn’t give a 5 star rating for mine. I saw an Ariens 1336LE at a Home Depot recently with a traction drive clutch cable so slack that I think it would have had the same problems that Buck describes assuming it went out the door that way.

Hi Buck

It does indeed sound like the traction clutch cable adjustment and maybe a slight adjustment at the shift selection rod. (The gear shift) However I noticed another thing that can add to this situation that I will try to briefly explain.  Doing it briefly is the problem.  If you are not interested in the explanation, I will give you my own personal summary suggestion.  I would try and stay out of first gear forward as much as possible when using the machine.  only go as low as second forward. I am not saying not to use it at all, cause it works great for like loading it up on ramps etc.  Not the same for 1st reverse,  I as of now don't see any problem with 1st reverse.

What I found is that even with both properly  adjusted that when I would tip the machine up off the ground, I was double checking my adjustments to ensure I was not as they say  "riding the clutch." (same as saying no contact between the two drive surfaces, friction disc and drive pulley when dis-engaged)  What would happen is 1st fwd would slip or not move. I would lower the machine and the tires would start turning and I couldn't stop the machine from moving forward,   No problem in 1st reverse as it is made to have a little higher ratio(thus is further away from the center when it grabs)  So I went thru a long process to see how it really ticks.  I adjusted the shift points one at a time each way and checked speed slippage on and off the ground in 1st forward and reverse.  I am going to short cut here as I am probably going to get a lot of well maybe you were one turn off here or there etc etc yada yada.  Trust me I did a lot of organized experimenting in order comparing to prev adj and comparing to the opposite gears, along with their ratio's.

The conclusion I came to is there is always an accumulated amount of free play at all levels of the tranny, the shafts the bearings, there is also flex in the housings (like when I was tipping it by lifting the handle bars.) etc.  I believe that the whole set up is designed to take up the play and work properly when the weight of the machine is transposed on the wheels.  also I believe it only is important and comes into primary effect in 1st forward. 

This seems to only come into play in 1st forward.  The reason for it is it is the lowest ratio of all (rides closest to the inefficient centering/scrubbing point of the drive disc)  Also the way these things apply their pressure to the mating surfaces is by a pivot point. which is a angle leverage thingy so a good engineer would design any shored up play to add to that application, not decrease it in the forward gears as they are the only gears that are going to operating the machine when it is throwing weight bearing snow etc. 

Thus why the problem at the EOD.  Lot of weight in that slush, fills the machine up, doesn't throw as well.  Weight in the front of the machine in that situation takes a lot of weight off the drive wheels cause they are in the rear.  

The reason I went thru this is I have seen a lot of these drive questions come and get tweaked to some fine results,  but a lot of em keep coming back etc.  So for any of you out there I would suggest adopting a general rule of thumb to try and stay out of 1st forward as much as possible  after you properly adjust.  I also think it will decrease wear on the friction plate.  also won't have to do those periodic tweaking adjustments as much

Ben07

In the same line of questions;  i have done all of the  ajustments except move the attachment pulley,.  the interlock ONLY works when the machine is on.  it used to work if i slammed down on the attacment handle.

in my imagination it would work like a games of "hands down. "

when that attachment clutch was engaged and then the traction belt , some part  in the traction assembly would hold down the attachment handle. 

where does this take place. or what do i do to adjust it?

ps this on an le not on a dle.  (and my :"dealer" is HD.

On my 8524 the action takes place right under the handlebar shroud.  Like right at your belly button when standind behind it.    Your interlock only lets you free one hand  the right one.  .. just mentioning this as if you let go on the left handle only it will lift up and disengage the thing.  Is there an adjustment  , don't know   now .. but you will see it under that shroud..  i think two big cam lobes  the size of an automobile  camshaft lobe..  Impressive  hardware/periferials to say the least.  It sort of looked like the cams were hardened by their color.  probably my imagination as they may just have some type of protective coating on them.  And to tell you the truth I just peaked under there  for a second last year  and all I said was well that is about as thorough and heavy duty as you can get, probably never gonna have a problem there.  So maybe there is something you need to adjust and I didn't notice it at a fast glance.or something that is coming loose.  

I also don't think my interlock, (maybe it is different than yours.)  works in connnection other parts/operations of the machine.  other than itself and the two handle levers.  (simultaneously with other things but not directly connected)  So I would confine my search to that area first.  maybe a loose pivot pin at the handle, a not so noticable bent engaugement lever , maybe wear or a burr in the locking tab.  The reason I mentioned the hardening process is if you got some kind of pre-mature wear, sometimes parts can miss touching all the bases in the manufacturing routing process at a mfg plant.  In this case maybe the hardening process.

I don’t see anything in my manual regarding adjusting the handle interlock. I’d have to look underneath the dash to see if there is any apparent adjustment that can be made. When you have engaged the attachment clutch (right handle) and the drive clutch (left) handle, you should be able to let go of the right handle and have the attachment clutch still engaged. The right handle may come up a bit, but the auger and impeller should be working at full speed. If you are having to slam down the right handle, perhaps you do need to readjust the attachment belt which might involve moving in the idler pulley a little bit.

Hi...

"Well when I got home it was gone. they took it in to make repairs."


Hope it was the OPE dealer who took it !  


Dave...

ben07. i will look under the dash. i though there was  nothing (not much)there --just cabling and the light.. glad u understood my question.. may also loook on parts radar.

jonathan, i have  made the adjustments ad nauseum (this will send robmints to the dictionary) and nothing seems to help it.

	14	00184751 Add to pick list	Bracket, Retaining			1	each
	15	02492100 Add to pick list	Cam, Interlock

from the parts radar. i will look at the cam interlock whis is as u say beno7 rt under the dash

IM glad to get all of the input from everyone. Just reading your posts I have learned a lot. My machine is still at the dealer, It should have been done & in my garage by today. I will ahve to call them tomorrow, (I had Leauges tonight).

I wanted all the input I could get so when they tell me what they found I will know what they are takling about.

I was always told you BS the baker you might get a BUN

You BS me you don't get NONE

Thanks

Brent Franklin

Solara, Are both those clips (#16) in place? Also to the right of #13, there should be a spring attached to an interlock that catches the right side cam. Jonathan

thanx jonathan. very helpful. absent some snow his week,  will probably wait until sat/sunday to try to try to fix..  now i wonder if this issue is tied into the dash problem where the speed indicator does not go into the fastest gear.

glad to know that the "works" are all under the dash and not   tied into the attachment adjustments down below..

Just hope we get more snow here so I can doar test this thing again.

Keep the info coming  you guys are GREAT !!. It like being at school

Brent

solara wrote:

Hi Solara.  Could you explain the point I quoted above, a little more.  Just wanna stay on the right track, as you had mentioned previously that you had  did all the adjustments except for the attachment pulley.  So I think I can assume you did the speed selector adjustment.  If you did then did you have trouble getting into 6th gear then? (or before,after, just started)  

Or is the shifter just sort of binding at the dashboard stops when you go all the way to sixth.   Mine does that a little when selecting 6th gear and it is only the high degree of the angle of the shifter in relation to the dash slots, which are more of a flatter plane.  (remember mine might be a little different than yours, different model)

Their are other things that can cause it not going into sixth gear. Like the speed selector adjustment, or something internally in the gear drive.  or maybe something out of align in the handle area, and if it is in that area than it very well may be tied to the interlock problem.  

Ben

P.S. I think you ought to try an fix this before the snowfall.  Not necessarily the interlock,  but doubts on gear selection adjustment have a habbit of ruining the rubber disc drive.  Also as of now the repairs are what I call stand up work.  You know no crawling around on the ground etc.  Just taking a good look at something that is easy to get at can save you a lot of headaches.  Who was that that said "curiosity killed the cat"   Wasn't me.

ben:

dash: the speed selrcytor will not go into highest gear. i think i have all the gears,,,just the selector will not go into he notch even when  the linkage is disconnected.

maybe a dash stamping issue?


attachment pulley: nmanual says adj the traction pulley by loosening set screws. jonathan and i can not find same. we see the set screws on the sheave., but not on the attachment pulley.

solara wrote:

Great answer that rules all that other stuff out.  sure a dash problem.  probably something underneath the dash. etc etc.

Also now you got tht shift rod disconnected an shifter  won't go into 6th than that problem gotta be right there.  that assembly is not dependant on anything except being mounted to the dash and maybe getting in the way of the interlock bars or vice versa

My big question is why are you investigating the attachment pulley down at the engine. 

(i am not familir with the pulley,  but in the past I have found some pulleys where their were set screw adjustments and or roll pins  down under the belt riding surface.  In other words you had to first get the belt off the pulley to see them.  not telling you to do this, as probably someone in here can give you a better answer in that area. 

PS  thanks for posting thoes drawings Johnathan   Is that easy to do in here?

ben, the pulley adj is part of the 15 minute check up.  it seemes SLIGHTLY out of alignment so i intended to try to correct this. i believe jonathan also wanted to do that,,,,,,,,,,,,,,but neither of us could locate the set screws.

To put in the Ariens exploded view I just right clicked the mouse on the diagram in Parts Radar, went down to copy, and then did “paste” into the forum message box. Regarding that 6th gear problem, the speed notches are not cut into the dash. They are cut into another piece that’s welded to the dash from underneath. If that was not welded quite correctly, i.e., welded a bit too far forward, I think it could cause a problem with moving the gear selector into the top position because the gear selector is approaching horizontal when it’s up there.

OK sounds like you are looking it over well and noticing some problems.  so will wait to see your future posts. 

Also somewhere in the forum recently within like last two weeks.  someone really went thru how to alighn those attachment pulleys, and how a couple different kinds readjusted on the ariens models.  I will try and find some of that,  however I hope someon see's this and knows what thread to tell you  to go to

ben i think i started that thread.    jonathan 's conclusion is thet there is no set screw. i am not convinced. but the alignment is pretty close. i  also did a search to se if their were other threads. saw none.

This one?

robmints, yes. that was the topic i started.  the resolution  or lack thereof  was not quite satisfying.

ben , u are 100% correct it "all happens" under the dash.

Jonathan, is there only one gold spring  that holds the lever that catches the piece if steel that the cams push?

I guess it works when the machine is running duty to vibration?

Yes, just one spring. I don't think vibration is involved in the operation of it.

JONATHAN, I  AGREE THAT VIBRATION IS NOT INTENDED TO BE A PART OF IT,,,,,,,,BUT ABSENT THAT IT DOES NOT CATCH.

WONDER IF ITS ALL TIE DTO THE WELDING OF THE SPEED SELECTOR?

ps excuse the caps.  i look at the key board and not the screen. 

I’ll look at mine tonight. If I remember correctly, that flat piece is snapped back by the spring to hold the right hand cam in place. This keeps the right handle down when the left handle is down and you take your hand off the right handle.

I'll also see if I can get a measurement in regards to the location of the notched piece under the dash so that you can compare it with yours.

Thanx.

Solara,

That piece with the gear shift notches also holds the cams. I measured from the back edge of the dash to the back outside surface of that piece and it is 13/4". I think if that piece is welded too far forward, that in addition to making it difficult to shift into the 6th gear notch, it would also pose a problem with the flat metal piece with the gold spring catching onto the cam and holding the right side handle down. This could be the problem with your machine.

Jonathan

 All,

Another Ariens QC problem ! ! !

                                                        Fred   

Don't know yet , Fred, but If he gets a bigger measurement I think that the welder's jig likely slipped. Jonathan

Thanx jonathan. will measure tomorrow.

solara wrote:

That was my thought also when you said it only worked with a fast slap when running, My guess was you were getting a lil more clearance (help) due to the vibration.  No I am not 100 percent it all happens under the dash.  when I looked last year I was pretty sure it worked all on it's own,  can't see why they would tie it into anything else..  Will try an look this weekend Just not easy to get to now. being we were gonna get long stretch of warm weather, i put it in a shed,  then had to temp store some furniture in front of it.  I have another SB in my garage.   sry picked the wrong one to bury.  or I would have given it a thorough look for u by now.

Ben07

brent, did u get your machine back? all ok?

Jonathan/ben. 

ok his is the problem .  when the rt handle is squeezed the cam tuns up and the tongue(?) is supposed to fit under the cam.  ( the  engaged tongue should holds the cam up and the handle down.). it misses by maybe 1/16 of an  inch.   jonathan u confirm hat there is only 1 spring holding (pulling) the tongue forward.   I could  grind the cam down a little or grind a little off of the tongue.  the pivot bolt that holds the tongue does not seem to have aby adjustment to it.

measuements  are tough to compare due to nomenclature.  i think that jonathan's measurement of 1 3/4 is 1 7/8 on mine

Solara   Just as a suggestion, being it is new and I think u said u dealer is HD.  You are having some align problems , all from what don know yet.  How about Taking the whole top of your handle off, 4 wing nuts, unscrew  unscrew drive cable down at the adjustment, disconnect shift rod , unplug light and heat grip connections,  not sure how the auger controll cable comes off , wether it is easy or not, hopefully easy,  disconnect the chute crank  and tilt thingy.  Actually all that should not take long  (Dun know bout the augel cable though)..   call up the dealer ahead of time and see if that is ok with him as you can take it into him  and if it is a parts warranty prob,  he can get you the parts or new shift mech etc.  rather than having to get to a dealer later and 

clouding the issue with you altering something.  (minor alteration, n/p)  but sounds you got two problems,  maybe caused by one thing,  but grinding down a locking tab  for the interlock will prob not solve the selector going into 6th gear even with the shift rod  completly disconnected from it

Just a thought

Ben07

I hope these issues are being brought to the attention of Ariens.  If you keep them to yourself and simply try to fix the issue on your own, you won't be accomplishing anything for the next production year.  Nothing wrong with improving on your snowblower design, but at least keep them in the loop.  If enough people give the manufacturers enough feedback, whether good or bad, it'll send the correct message to them and keep them on their toes. 

ben that's not a bad idea,,, but i do not think a sdealer would be pleased. my guess is that they will want to see the machine.

richie, i have not contacted ariens as yet.


BTW, i think the thing works when it is running beccause there is a little play in he cam and when it is runnning the vibration moves the cam and allows it to catch.

solara wrote:

don't ask them on the phone  if they are close  go in and run it past them, then say could I just bring you in the handle for you to look at,  if he says ok, your in.  if not satisfied there e-mail Ariens,  They will give you clearence or not.  Also the dealer would be a sh@t  not to take a look at something you can put right in front of his nose on the counter.  He has a chance to help a customer out from his  rocking chair.  (could be worth a stop to get a feel) 

Ben07

Solara,

I agree with the others that are advising you to get the machine to a dealer. Based on your measurement and your observation with the cam there does appear to be a defect with the dash assembly. I think you should have it corrected under warranty rather than trying to fix it your self, at least that's what I'd do.

Jonathan

Solara  I know this is all easier said than done, telling you to go to the dealer.  The dealers do resort to "you bought it at home depot then get home depot to fix it"  I was a service manager at an auto dealership for a few years, and when we would get a tough sticky repetitive prob, I would have to go to the dealer owner and he would say the same thing.  And he never once got in amy trouble from the manufacturer.

I gave the local dealer a chance on my purchase.    I ran into a great deal, it was anever used end of season left over.  Not a takeback re-furb,  Last year march 8524le, 700 bucks.  I saw it and didn't buy it,  I was driving down the road past this equip place, turned around and went in.  They happened to sell Ariens.  I did not want to use the price against them ..  I told them I was about to purchase a 8524le, would prefer to give a dealer the sale  no price mentioned by me.   I also said I don need it now  I will give you a deposit and I don care if I get it till August,  what is the best price you will give it to me for. (pls note I would have given him more than the 700 depo price)  (figured this would be a win situation for them as I don't think they were going to sell any more SB at that time)  He and manager type whatever  looked it all up  they came back with 1200.  I said are you sure. he said yes that is what the machine is telling me as he pointed to his computer monitor.  .  I turned and walked out. 

So I had to buy from HD  -500 bucks difference  ,  just saw yesterday at HD a 5520 2 stage new for 449.  Is that a sweet  compact and strong built machine..    I could have bought  two SB from HD  and still been ahead of the game. 

Makes you think that the manufacturer sets the price for different markets,  my guess so only certain models sold to HD.  Is it a good practice,  up front they get you,  so I think HD should be responsible for hookin you up with service.  The manufacturer may assume there are less warranty repairs for the trivial stuff, so they pass the savings on to you,  they and you save, fine when it is running.  Can get into a lot of arguments when it isn't during the warranty period. 

Ben07

   

thanx guys. i will think about it and look to see what has to be done to remove the dash.

if the highest gear is thera and if it does engage while moving i may just live w./ it.

solara wrote:

Yes could do that then when the snow quits , truck the whole thing to a dealer at begin of summer.   If you want to make sure it works in 6th gear, just disco the shift rod down at the cotterpin at the case,  just let it hang  start the machine it will automatically seek the highest gear when you engage the left   lever for the self propel.   don think you need to do that cause you were pretty ure the gear box shaft moves down or up (not sure now) a little more when you disco the shift rod as it is the shifter mech that is holding it back from 6th.  By the way I do all my adjustments from down there, take pin out then turn the whole shift linkage rod then just put the cotter pin in a little so i can center the adjustments and check it in different positions like 19 times.  you don have to get that finiky but it is easier than playin around under the dash and you get a direct reference on where the rod thatis going into the tranny is and how much play, further it can go etc.  Much faster if you want to see how your adjustment works while it is running,  turn one more turn then go into 1f and 1r , then turn outer way and check etc.  much faster way to do it and double check and compare slight adjustments.

Ben07 

Solara,

PM sent.

Paul Koltz

Solara

Yes I got it back & so far its working 100%.

IM not sure why they had to keep it for 6 days but it seem to be working Great.

I went out yesterday for about 2 1/2 hr. Now its time to change the oil.

Thanks for all of the great information for everyone. IM sure with everyone here I will keep this machine working for a long time

Thanks

Brent