Outdoor Power Equipment (Lawn Mowers, Snow Blowers, Chain Saws and more) Discussions

Horizontal lists don't usually post correctly so the info below.....

Make...............Engine RPM,,,,,,Auger dia........Auger RPM................Velocity out ft/min

Powerlite,  .........4000....................7........................1550..............................2840

Murray 3ph........4100..................8 1/4....................1025..............................2213

Maco 3hp...........4100..................8 1/4....................980...............................2116

Borat....................6000.................8 1/4...................1470.............................3173

Toro 350..............4200.................8 1/2.....................xxxxx..............................xxxxx

Borat,

    Your auger RPM was approximated from Maco's.  Different belts but likely both pulley diameters are the same or very close.  The estimate was 245 RPM per 1K engine RPM.

     It would be interesting to compare impeller bearings.   Murray and Maco both have roller bearings in the drive side of the auger shaft, flange on the other.  Borat your's is probably the same.  I'd have to check the Toro but I think flange on both sides. 

    The velocity out of a dual stage is 3400 to 4000 ft/min most common around 3700-3800 ft/min (that is if I am remembering those numbers right).  The better brands of machines will all be at the top of the high end.  Those numbers seem about right given what a Powerlite can do versus a dual stage in the back yard in conditions good for the Powerlite.

trouts2, it's  somewhat interesting (to me, at least): The last few times I've used my digital tach/hourmeter, I've had some issues with the screen suddenly going from RPM to "11111" then "2222"..... counting up towards "99999". I can't figure out exactly what's causing it. It will usually go back to an RPM by 4 or 5. I *presume* it's caused by an iffy signal to the meter. Maybe it's from the RPM changing? As I recall, the engine isn't necessarily hunting while it's doing this. Usually, when I've been using it recently, I've been doing it quick-and-dirty. Mine has no connector on the spark plug end (wraps around the wire a few times), then it has a round connector you put under an engine bolt. To make things simpler, I've been clipping an alligator lead onto the ground connector, and clipping the other end onto a cooling fin. Perhaps that's part of the cause. I've never actually tried disconnecting the ground entirely.

borat, what you're describing sounds like what I've heard called a Vibratach? I've heard good things about them, but never seen one used. I bought my tach/hour meter for about $30 a few years ago, because it did both functions, could be mounted so you can keep an eye on the RPMs while using the machine, etc. But what you're describing does admittedly sound interesting. With an eye towards my own potential use for something like that, can they be used on chainsaws? And what RPM do they reach? The saw is supposed to be 13,000.

http://www.machovec.com/quest/vibratach.htm

Sirometer and Vibratach are the same.  They can be had on ebay for around $20.00.

The one i have is supposed to go to from 800 to 50,000 rpm.   


It will work on a chainsaw but it would be a bit tricky to run the saw wide open and hold the sirometer on it at the same time.  A chainsaw running at 13000 rpm and not having the bar in a log, can be potentially dangerous.  It that situation, I use the Tiny Tach.   It's nice to have one of each.  If the electronic device fails, you know the sirometer won't.  I know my Tiny Tach doesn't  like cold temperatures.  It can be a bit iffy when it's cold.