Outdoor Power Equipment (Lawn Mowers, Snow Blowers, Chain Saws and more) Discussions

Hi all, I bought a new Craftsman snowblower last year, and unfortunately it is not performing like I think/hoped it should. After reading a bit on this site, I decided on installing a Clarence kit.

Although I saw an improvement, I still felt something was off. It is throwing powdery stuff up to my expectations, it's the more heavy stuff I have problems with. After reading some more, I began to question wether the auger belt was loose. Keep in mind the snowblower at this point as been used maybe 10 times. So I pop the belt cover, and sure enough, the belt is loose, and can be moved easily with the auger engaged.

Unfortunately, the idler pulley is non-adjustable. Anyone ever attempted to modify the bracket to make it adjustable? Seems to me it would just require being drilled?

Any thoughts?

I was looking at a parts diagram of the pulleys for what I think is your blower.  It looks like there my be two positions that the pulley can be mounted.  One higher than the other.
If that is true that may be the adjustment.  Hard to tell just looking at a parts breakdown.

 husqvarna 14527XLS http://www.partstree.com

On some snowblowers the adjustment is actually in the cable that connects the lever to the idler pulley.  Check the back of the blower for some type of adjustment nut to shorten the cable.  Sometimes the nuts are at the bottom right before the cable goes into the machine and sometimes they are at the top right under the handlebar dash.  This should cause the idler pulley to press tighter on the belt.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vSjgNoAZWjc

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NrkfWOoh2yw

hirschallan wrote:

 That's why I came here! What could be some of the adjustments? I already tightened the linkage on the handle.

jrtrebor wrote:

I just took a look at the parts diagram, ant it's the same I have in the Craftsman manual.

Unfortunately, it's not really a true indication of what it actually looks like. The top part is larger than that. I'll try to take a picture in the afternoon when I get back from work.

    If the auger engagement parts are the correct parts it seems like a flabby belt.  It might be tightened as jrtrebor mentioned using the top hole on the idler arm bracket (3) but that’s it for adjustments. 

 

   You mentioned tightening the linkage on the handle.  I can’t see anything to adjust there.  The handle pulls the rod which had a connection at it’s end for the spring.  It looks like there is only one hole for the spring so no adjustment there.  That end section on the rod may be screw adjustable but can’t tell from the exploded view.  That’s the only possible adjustment other than the two holes in the idler arm.

 

    The rod from the handle pulls up the spring moving the control arm (11).  That moves the control shaft (15).  The control arm (11) and shaft (15) are mated by a clevis pin.  If that’s broken but the connection tight it might not be moving the idler arm bracket (3) its full travel.

 

   If the right parts are there then it should work with the only adjustment being what jrtrebor said,  the two holes.  Other than that it’s tensioned as Shryp sad off the auger lever and rods.  The only possible adjustment there is maybe the end part of the first rod connected to the auger lever.  That section may turn and tighten the spring.  If as is the auger lever is making the control arm (11) travel its full distance then even if the spring could be made tighter it would not move the idler arm bracket (3) more.  That can be checked by clamping down the auger lever and trying to make the control arm move more.  If it can’t and your belt idler is in the top hole then your belt is flabby.

  

   A very remote possibility is the spring on the control arm is flabby. 

   I have not seen any complaints about problems with the design related to belt tension so would not consider modifying things to get the belt tighter. 

Check the rod end.  Some of them have adjustable fittings that thread onto the rod end.  Turn it in to make the rod shorter and put more tension on the belt.  My old JD 826 has that arrangement, but it proved impossible to adjust becausse it was rust-welded.  Bought a replacement rod for it for not too much and that fixed the problem.  The picture makes it  look like the top of the fitting on the end of the rod has a hex nut on it, so I'm betting this is your fix.  Try lots of penetrating oil / heat if it's frozen.  Good luck!!

Well I had a nice post written up, but pressed cancel instead of post...

Anyway, I'm not gonna be able to take pics (way too cold, arrived home late), or check further until probably early next week.

Thanks for all the info, I'll get back to you guys later, when I try or check the things you mentioned.

You could also consider buying a slightly shorter belt.

I agree with the smaller belt if you can't find a way to make the proper adjustments.  I suspect 1/2" would do it.

carlb wrote:

That's another option if all else fails.

I remember seeing on this site a reference list for different sized belts, but can't seem to find it. Anyone can direct me?