Outdoor Power Equipment (Lawn Mowers, Snow Blowers, Chain Saws and more) Discussions

Well I've spent a lot of time researching new blowers and came very close to bring home the JD 1330se today but got cold feet after reading about the slipping drive issues. I'd be very interested to hear any long term reviews on this unit as it appears unchanged since 2010. I do have a JD dealer 10 miles from home so prep and support should be better than a Lowes units? Also if there is another blower 30ish inches I should consider please let me know. I live in northern MI with a 150' drive see a fair amount of snow. I dont mind paying a premium for quality if it makes for years of trouble free operation. Thanks for your input

scopes01 wrote:

Nice picture and great info here. Just for clarification,what is the white color on the drive plate

borat wrote:
Thanks, borat, for this good tip.

From Stainless :

borat wrote:
If the left wheel is disengaged, it would seem to me that turning left would be easier than turning right.  When you're turning right, the right wheel is still receiving power, correct?

From borat:

Stainless wrote:
With one wheel disengaged, it turns easily in both directions.


My experience so far with my Toro 1028LXE is that I can use either the left or right trigger and turn either direction.  It's just more natural to turn left with the left trigger releasing the left wheel, and turning right with the right trigger releasing the right wheel.  I was surprised how easy it is to turn with only the inside wheel powering the machine.  It's easier in a lower gear, but, of course, no one can't whip around fast on a tighter type of turn, anyway, so it's a moot point that a lower speed is needed.  If you're just making a gradual turn of some type, then a fast speed would be fine if you use the powered inside-wheel-only to make that turn with a Simplicity, or another brand that has the same turning feature. 

I finally was able to see my first new Simplicity blowers just over a week ago at the only dealer that actually has any to look at (some near-local dealers are Simplicity dealers, but only display John Deere, since both are made by Briggs), and they are exactly 200 miles from where I live.  Too bad they're so far away, but, nonetheless I knew immediately I liked the Simplicity models  better than the John Deere models.  They only stock the 4 Pro models.  Nice blowers!  I would think the Simplicity blower would have made Dr. Woof a happy camper.

royster wrote:
With one wheel disengaged, it will turn easily in both directions.

Think I already said that. 

borat wrote:

But doesn't it turn easier in one direction than the other.

Stainless wrote:
I think he meant that if the friction disc isn't engaged and power isn't sent to one wheel.

aa335 wrote:

My experience with my Toro 1028LXE, with triggers on both sides, is that if I turn in speeds 1, 2 , or 3 on sharper turns, I can turn pretty easily with power only on the inside wheel.  It's no big deal, really.  When trying to handle a gentle turn in speeds 4, 5, or 6, I can still turn with power only on the inside wheel.  I only tried it because I was so curious about how it would work out.  But of course, with my dual trigger system, I don't ever have to worry about that inside wheel issue.  I'll just use the left trigger for left turns and the right trigger for right turns.  However, It made me not fret about blowers that only have the left-wheel release trigger.  I'm thinking of the Ariens Deluxe models and the Simplicity models with those left triggers.  In both cases, you have to stop the machine, pull the trigger, then re-engage your motion forward or backward.  To re-establish two-wheel locked drive, you stop again and the pull the trigger, then re-engage your motion forward or backward.  With the Toro and Husqvarna models, or any others with the two-trigger system, you can do the triggering on the fly--no stopping needed.  Whichever you like, you'll be okay.

Iscopes01 wrote:

In This Photo you see the problem with these Friction Wheel Drives.  The Rubber faced "Friction Wheel" is already looking like a Bald Tire on this machine. This photo shows that rubber wheel and how it is able to slide across the axle it rides on, and that powers the wheels when you squeeze the handle and it rides on the metal disc that sompne has painted grey in this case, and the friction has worn off the paint in the center where the rubber faced friction wheel rides most of the time.  That drive plate has a V-belt that comes off the engine to make it rotate and supply the power to move the snowblower.  Those sprockets with the gears and the chains are just how the friction wheel carries the power to the wheels on this machine.

The speed lever simply runs a cable that makes the rubber faced friction wheel ride across the drive plate,(on that well greased hexagonal shaft on which the rubber faced wheel rides) and when the cable makes the rubber ride on the opposite side of the drive plate, the machine is in reverse.  That rubber faced friction wheel and the drive plate it rides on is what passes for a transmission on these types of snowblowers.  That is all there is to them.  You can see how the width of the rubber would matter, just as how large the wheels are that transfer the engine power across this device.  Yet no one gives that as a specification for us to measure one brand versus another.

Bald tire?   Is there supposed to be a tread pattern on it? 

Ever looked at a new one?  They're supposed to be smooth like that.

Not to be rude but, much of what you post here shows your considerable lack of knowledge of the topics you bring up. 

Oh, and by the way, there are likely a thousand or more friction disk machines out there for every one of any other form of power transmission. 

So, despite your vehement opposition to friction disk drives, they're almost as popular as you are ill informed. 

AAAh, Borat, wrong as usual.  The statement I made was that it looked as it  obviously does, just Like a Bald Tire.  The friction from the contact of that 'bald tire' drives the machine, unless it hardens, breaks or is simply worn out.  When those thing occurs, as they Very Often Do, the machine makes the operator move it by using his or her brute strength to PUSH the 200 pound Plus machine because the failure of that rubber friction wheel prevents all power from the engine reaching the wheels of the snowblower.  Unlike you, I understand all too well how the mechanism I just accurately described works, and what happens when it Fails to Work.   If my advice were NOT Correct, explain why the snowblower manufacturers include changing that 'Friction Wheel' as Normal Expected Maintenance.  I made a low quality MTD Sears Craftsman snowblower work for 15 years, by becoming adept at changing this rubber faced friction wheel, and before that an Ariens for over a decade.  I traded up and no longer ever have to do that again.  Those thousands of people with the same PITA problem may wish to know that there is an alternative to paying the shop to do this job again and again, or doing it the way I did, by learning how.  

You seem obsessed with trying to convince others that you know something.  Here's a clue, that doesn't happen when you try to tell them I don't when they can see the very simple mechanism for themselves and discover that it is YOU who have no idea what You are talking about.  That's becasue most of them, are a tad brighter than you.

borat spewed the following: