Outdoor Power Equipment (Lawn Mowers, Snow Blowers, Chain Saws and more) Discussions

I did a search and found a few references to this machine but no answers.  Any one have one of these?  15.5 snow max engine, heated hand grips, 30" wide.  I can't find a listing for auger diameter or impeller diameter.  I called John Deere and the guy that was suppose to be the snow thrower expert didn't know either. 

What is the Easy Steer drive system?  The literature says: 

Easy SteerŽ drive system giving continuous power to both wheels and auto speed adjustment

Is it similar to the Ariens auto differential? 

I've heard that the units are built by B&S which translates to Simplicity.  They do have cast iron gear cases like the Simplicity.  The chute control is different than the simplicity and so is the turning method so they are not exactly the same.  I'm trying to compare the Simplicity L1530E to the JD 1130SE.  Any help would be appreciated.

Rick

I purchased the JD 1130E from Lowes in 2009. The "easy steer" system is probably fine for paved driveways but I live in the country and have a very large gravel driveway. Because of the uneven surface I think the easy steer system is a detriment to me. Is there any way to disenage or disable it? I find myself wrestling with the machine to get both wheels turning in sync. Thanks.

Pull the bottom cover off to see why it's not engaging/disengaging.  If it's the same set up as my Simplicity, it could be a problem of too much of the wrong grease on it.  If the grease isn't suitable for winter conditions, it might create too much resistance in cold temperatures thus not allowing the engagement couplers to move freely. 

SteveJF wrote:

Hi there...your machine's "easy steer"  feature is an Auto-Lok differential from a company called Hilliard...they supply the industry with this differential unit...It is neat system when it is properly integrated into a product so it is effective an efficient...The problem that your having is that your Auto-Lok differential is mounted on a main sprocket and driven with a chain....same concept as a bike...The problem is that there is too much slack and not very much surface contact for the driving mechanisms to work properly. Ex: Ariens is using this technology on their Platinum and Professional series machine too...however, it is integrated and designed differently and better in my opinion. Here is the reason why...The main difference is that the ARIENS is using a spur gear around the Auto-Lok unit and a pinion to drive the gear for both wheels. The spur gear surface is about 1" wide and the pinion even more. Perhaps, 1.250" of surface for the pinion. I would have to open and measure to get exact size, but its about that. This surface contact increases the stability, rigidity and decreaes the vibration of the axle. John Deere doesn't have a spur gear around the Hillard Auto-Lok unit and neither a pinion. They are using a sprocket and chain to drive the axle. The sprocket is fitted to Auto-Lok and expected to give you that Easy Steer you looking for. Unfortunately, it's not giving you the performance you were expecting....Perhaps, it is also defective too...eventhough it is mounted on a sprocket and chain it should still be going on a straight line and in-sync...

Here is a link to JD manual for your machine on page 6   https://groundscare.custhelp.com/ci/fattach/get/32489/

Here is a link to Ariens service manual..go to page 20 figure 18 to see how Ariens is mounted differently.  http://apache.ariens.com/manuals/02983600.pdf

If it is a real irritant for you...you might want to consider removing this Auto-Lok and installing a straight sproket...just remember if you this, it will be harder to turn. This is how standard MTD snowblowers operate...

Can someone please test the voltage on the headlight connector while at full idle? I keep blowing headlights. The voltage changes when I turn the heated grips high/low/off. Voltage when the handgrips are off: 16.4, Voltage when the handgrips are on high: 12.5 Voltage, when the handgrips are on low: 13.4

My engine (Tecumseh) is perhaps different than yours. But I recall getting around 16V when checking the alternator output, before attaching a headlight. I'm not sure if your light is on or off for the 16.4V measurement. I'm sure my voltage is lower now, with powering the light, though I don't think I've tried to check it. If you're putting 16.4V into the headlight even with the light on, maybe you're pushing the bulb a little too hard. I suppose, in a pinch, you could add a low-resistance, high-wattage-rating resistor before the headlight, to drop the voltage a bit.

I don't know what kind of bulbs yours takes, but you also want to make sure you're using an appropriate bulb. For instance, using a bulb that's meant to sit in a motionless light fixture might result in an early failure, when rigidly installed onto a moving, vibrating machine. But if you're using OEM-type bulbs, that's probably not an issue.

I just checked it again with the heated grips off, and the voltage jumped (at the headlight plug)from between 19-21v which is way too high.

Is your engine speed correct? I do not have heated grips. They may have had to bump up your no-load voltage to avoid dropping too low with everything (grips) turned on?

The engine speed seems normal....to my ears anyways. haha. I sort of figure it's the regulator or the stator. The regulator is $50 and is the easiest part to replace. It looks like the regulator is just a capacitor in a metal box with resin holding it in place with a wire going in and a wire going out. Maybe I'll try going to Radio Shack and rebuilding it with a new capacitor. By the way, I've been using standard, automotive style bulbs.

OK. I got a tachometer and tested the voltage coming out of the stator. At 3600 rpms, I measure 30.8 - 31 volts. According to Briggs and Stratton, at 3600 rpms, I should have 28. I wouldn't think that the extra 2 volts would blow the voltage regulator.

Which alternator do you have? Briggs has both regulated and unregulated alternators, and AC and DC.