Outdoor Power Equipment (Lawn Mowers, Snow Blowers, Chain Saws and more) Discussions

Quick intro: From eastern Mass (half way between Boston and Providence RI). Need to invest in a snow blower that is robust yet easy to steer - well, one that has a good steering system. I'm about to have L4 & L5 vertebrae fused and during the healing process will need a blower that won't make me screw things up by bulling it around. Anyway, been doing a lot of research (lots of free time - disabled from work until back is fixed) and I am narrowing my search down to the Toro's OEX's (Power Max 826OEX, 828OEX, or 1028 OEX) and the Husky with power steering and the high impeller speed (11524E & 14527E) Questions, how do these steer? At this point that is the priority, I will tackle the other differences later. OR do you know of a RELIABLE machine that needs no body twisting or pulling to steer it. (I read reports that Troy-Bilt have unreliable reverse gears) thanks -Bill

JoelKlein wrote:

Ok first off it's very dangerous for a snowblower to move if you have not pressed the engagement lever. That sounds like a cable problem except you really don't have cables with a hydrostatic tranny.

Th dealer should fix the problem, hopefully they can. My Toro does not have this issue. The 1028 I have steers like a dream but like any snowblower if the driveway isn't dead flat then you have to adjust it every so often with either a slight hip nudge or a squeeze on the proper steering trigger.

Every gear works fine on my Toro (wet snow mixed with leaves excepted). No matter what brand of snowblower you have, you can overdrive it. I tackle the driveway at the speed that cleans it to pavement the best. For 6" of powder that means 4th or 5th gear easily. For 20" of EOD 1st is a better choice. My Toro works well in any gear but it all depends on conditions I rarely attack the EOD with more than 1st gear on the 1st pass. If I have to do a second pass due to the way it meets the road then I do it in 3rd or 4th gear

My 1028 has a fuel shutoff, the 826 I believe has a Briggs engine so it should have one.

The auger should NOT engage unless you depress the lever and the same goes for the drive.

Maybe you should let the dealer try and fix the problem on your Husky, if he can't then maybe he can swap you out for a Toro if he sells them. Snowblower dealers HATE to refund money. You will make an enemy for life no matter what they tell you.

If he doesn't also sell Toro then it could be an uphill battle.

Fuel shutoff valve is an easy and cheap part ($5-8) to add on. I had to add one to mine. Engine had a sticker over the cover cutout where the valve goes.

The 826 OXE does have a fuel shutoff valve. 

Thanks for your support! My dealer sells almost every brand snow blower. he said i could swap it for a 826 if I want. I just feel bad about loosing the extra 305cc the husky had... but overall the 826 "should be" much lighter to maneuver in my tiny boiler room. the husky cost me a visit to my doctor cus It was to heavy to bully in the boiler room. will go down tomorrow and talk to him live. P.S. if I buy a shed. I wold defiantly go for the the bigger 1028. Money is not so much the issue, as i'm looking to be proud of my self they I bought a top of the line snow blower... B.T.W. can some one explain me in a real life situation were a 250cc wold not perform and the 305/345cc will? in other words; were in real life expiriance dos it make a difference if its a 250 cc or bigger? Thanks

JoelKlein wrote:

The 1028 is really an incredible machine! One of the other guys in the forum got an 826 and really wishes he had bought the 1028 instead. I guess it depends on how much snow you get. I have no idea how easy or difficult the Husky is to manuever but the 1028 is pretty easy for me as long as I squeeze both triggers it's pretty easy to move. That is easily tested in the showroom. I always feel it's better to have a bit extra and not need it than wish I had it when I don't.

JoelKlein wrote:

Hello,

   I don't have any experience with the larger 1028, but I did purchase an 826 oxe last year and have a season under my belt with it now.  It does bog down a bit when trying to clear more than a foot of snow at any speed higher than second "gear".  But I have been very pleased with it.  (just sounds like it is working super hard)  It is super maneuverable with both steering triggers pressed to unlock both wheels.  I have a 400' driveway in New York and it has never let me down.  It usually rides up on the EOD in first gear the first time, then I back it up and hit it again and it scrapes down to the ground.  No big deal for me, I am rarely in a rush.  This week I tackled the super wet slush with it, and the chute did get clogged up 3-4 times requiring me to clear it out (this was on Sunday evening after the 6" had had time to slush down quite a bit).  Could be because I did not spray the auger/chute with WD40 this season like I have in the past.  I still got the whole 400' done in under an hour.  I was also pleasantly surprised to find that I can knock out the whole driveway with 1-2 " in 6th "gear" super fast and it clears down to the pavement, was not execting that with a two stage.  Let me know if you have any specific questions.  This reminds me, I have to go out to the garage and clean all the leaves out of the bucket.

Good luck,

Dan

"Great News" I Swapped the Husqvarna for a..........Toro........yes yes yes....the big brother 1028 OXE! paid the extra $300.00 and got on friday. I did notice thou, the joy stick moves the the chute around very easy, Too easy, and it swings on its own, i can't get it to stay "looked" in the 1 o'clock possition, hard right or left it holds, but not off center. is it a adjustment? Thanks

JoelKlein wrote:

Congratulations on your new Toro 1028!

The loose joystick is a dealer setup issue. They probably assembled it quickly and didn't take their time to do it right. make them get it right. I have videos of the chute working at all levels and very quickly and it stays where I put it.

You squeeze the blue on the top to move it and then release it and it stays put. Have them adjust the cable.

Honestly it sounds like this dealer isn't a place I'd want to service my machine. If they tell you that's the way it normally is tell them BullS#1T! and have them fix it right.

Will call my dealer AGAIN... What about gas? Do i have any gain of using 93?

JoelKlein wrote:

No, you don't need 93 octane. I just run whatever my local gas station has and I run the cheap stuff and then I put in stabilizer. I'm usinng a different brand than Stabil but so far it really gets rid of the ethanol and water in the gas. Those are alway a problem. My dealer told me to run the cheap stuff and it works great.