Outdoor Power Equipment (Lawn Mowers, Snow Blowers, Chain Saws and more) Discussions

Quick intro: From eastern Mass (half way between Boston and Providence RI). Need to invest in a snow blower that is robust yet easy to steer - well, one that has a good steering system. I'm about to have L4 & L5 vertebrae fused and during the healing process will need a blower that won't make me screw things up by bulling it around. Anyway, been doing a lot of research (lots of free time - disabled from work until back is fixed) and I am narrowing my search down to the Toro's OEX's (Power Max 826OEX, 828OEX, or 1028 OEX) and the Husky with power steering and the high impeller speed (11524E & 14527E) Questions, how do these steer? At this point that is the priority, I will tackle the other differences later. OR do you know of a RELIABLE machine that needs no body twisting or pulling to steer it. (I read reports that Troy-Bilt have unreliable reverse gears) thanks -Bill

Just get the 1028 OXE and call it a day.  Really nice unit.  I have looked high and low for the top end Husky's but cant find any info.  Support for the Toro will be better too.

Norfolker wrote:

Go for the Toro 1028OXE we have one and my 84 lb. wife can drive it. I also screwed up my back in the same area between the L4& L5.

They wanted to fuse my back also but I decided against it. What they don't tell you is teh strain it will put on your upper back so in 10 years you'll need to get that fused as well. That happened to one of my neighbors.

Here is a video of my wife using the 1028OXE, she's small! The second vid is her starting in for the first time of the new season with 1 pull. It's a great machine and is super easy to steer, no muscle needed.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9uUBRE7vsRU

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6u9Y7ELfI3M

What's up Steve? Been waiting for you to chime in over the last few weeks.....were you been? lol

stresst wrote:

I generally come back to the forum once the leaves turn.

Can't wait to try out a few more machines this year and see how they are. I still like the Toro. But I'm curious if anything better has come out.

I am curious  as well....keep me posted if you find anything. I know Toro came out with a 265cc 926OXE and thats about all heard about so far.

I recently learned ariens makes a 28" 420cc beast which got me thinking a bit!!

But I really want to put a larger engine in my Toro!

stresst wrote:

I'll also be looking at Honda and Ariens and Simplicity probably next month. I'm not sure if they really have anything new but it will keep me busy.

The 1028OXE is still the one for me. Why not ask your local dealer if he can put a 10HP engine on yours for you?

Steve_Cebu wrote:

Thank you Steve, I actually saw your vids before finding this forum. Your wife is a good sport <grin >

the 1028 is definitely in the running, as are the other OXE's. There is much to like about the Toro, especially the way it "regurgitates" the snow and no shear pin. But I would love some feedback on the Husky's power steering. The 14527E looks comparable to the 1028OXE, (also with a 305 cc engine).

There are no Toro dealers near me, but the Husky dealer is just a couple of miles.

Norfolker wrote:

Yeah, my wife is a real gem.

I think it's best to try out whatever units you can and buy the one you like the best. i don't know who makes Husky. I know Toro makes Toro. The Toro has an auger shear pin but does not have a differential shear pin. It's not easy to break a Toro shear pin. My machine has thrown chunks of granite, sucked in a Christmas wreath that coiled wire all around the auger and all that did was slow it down. Some other posters with Toro's have pulled even worse stuff into the bucket. Their Toro's are still running! I can't speak for Husky as they don't sell them in my area. If you can find people who own them and ask them as well as testing it out yourself. Toro is very reliable and starts with 1 pull and for me that's super important. Just try and get the dealer to work on your machine in season. At my dealer it won't happen, as it takes 2-3 weeks minimum. Find out your dealers service time during peak season, you might be surprised.

I am not  familiar with the Toro power steering, but here  in NB Canada, there are many Husqvarna and Husqvarna built Craftsman

snowblowers.  I have found that the power steering used on these machines( the 2 little levers under the hand grip) works very well and is easy to operate.

nothing complicated. just releases power to either drive wheel,for a gradual or zero radius turn.

royster wrote:

That is basically what Toro uses. Since we don't have Husqvarna dealers around here I have no way to compare them.

So far my Toro even with all the plastic on it has proved very durable.

thanks guys

yes Steve, I need to find someone who has a Husky, that's why I'm here < grin >

I appreciate the feedback about the "stuff" you've eaten with your 1028. That's incredible. Hope you don't find the neighbor's dog the same way (sorry)

and thanks royster, as Steve says, sounds like how a Toro works.

and I assume for both, when you pull both triggers, both wheels freewheel for easy maneuvering in the shed/garage

Norfolker wrote:

I hope you find someone who actually owns a Husky. I'd like to see one for myself. I would be able to tell if it was a similar design or a bit different. I certainly hope no dog would lie down under 20" of snow and not move with a loud snowblower coming right at it.

As far as manuvering, yes, with the Toro it freewheels when you pull both triggers, so the Husky might be the same.

Still I wonder who actually manufacters Husky?

Actually, Huskys don't have grip controls.  It's just "GEE  HAW" and then "MUSH" to start out.  After that, a single "GEE" or "HAW" will suffice for a turn in the appropriate direction.

The Husky , as you call it, is manufactured by Husqvarna, with 3 factories in the USA and mamy other around the world.   Their head office is in Sweden.

Steve_Cebu wrote:
Steve and everyone else:  I don't own a Husqvarna snowblower, but I have used one for a few extensive snow removal sessions at an elementary school I once worked at about 4 years ago.  I can't recall the model number, but it is 30" wide and has a 11HP (pre-torque/cc figure days) engine.  The Husky turned quickly enough when gripping one of the triggers.  It's not smooth turning like an Ariens differential unit.  The Husky was great for the on-a-dime turn.  To smoothly go around a corner, you have to grip and re-grip a few times to sort of imitate a smooth turn.  It's no big deal.  The point is that you don't have to muscle anything.  I must assume Toro's steering triggers have a similar effect when in use.  Triggers are triggers, I guess. (Update of 10-28-11:  After having bought a three-year-old Toro 1028LXE on 10-23-11, I tried out the steering.  It was very easy.  How it would compare to a new or very recent Husky, I don't know.  The one I used at work is from the 2006-2007 season.

Everything I've heard about Husqvarna snowblowers is that they build their own stuff.  Same for everything else they make, I assume, like lawn mowers and weed wackers, etc.

Steve, I don't think you'll find much is different with Ariens, Simplicity, and Husky.  Ariens has added cast-iron gear boxes across their entire regular line of blowers, and they have beefed up their control deck to 12-gauge steel, and they have a new halogen light.  They still have the ATC.

coasteray wrote:

Yes, my Toro will turn very quickly but speed is dependant on how fast you are going. In 5th gear it will turn very fast if you just grab the lever. The Toro is variable so if you squeeze a little it turns a little, squeeze a lot and it'll whip around in it's own radius. Cast Iron gearboxes are mostly just marketing. I was a machinist for a lot of years and we did work with cast iron, cast aluminum some of the time. Quality of the cast is a big factor not just the material. It's the gears inside the housing that concern me more. The Toro and Ariens gears seem pretty robust so the outside box being cast iron or aluminum isn't as big an issue for me.

I'd really like to find a dealer locally that has a Husky so I could check it out and compare it to the Toro.

Here's a link for the Husqvarna Dealer Locator: http://www.husqvarna.com/us/forest/dealers/dealer-locator/

Thanks, I used that and there is a dealer about 30 minutes or so from me. So I'm going to go down Mon or Tues and take a looksee at the ones they have and see how they compare to my Toro. I'll try and take some pics and see if I can actually test the steering if they'll let me.

@coasteray, Thank you for that info. I am hoping the Husky turns as easy as you say. If they are as equal to the Toro as you suggest, location of a dealer will now be my deal maker/breaker

 

@Steve, I'd really appreciate any feed back from you once you've had a chance to look at and hopefully drive a Husky

Norfolker wrote:

So far I've been too busy to go but I do have to get a workout tire for my wife, so I'm hoping this week but the dealer is actually about 40 minutes away. I've been going in the opposite direction all week. But once I learn something I'll be sure and post it.

My husq dealer showed me the Husqvarna 14527-XLS (part no# 961-930061) for only $1,400.00
it's a Hydro drive, so you can set it to ANY speed you like at any time. with all the goodies included:
305 cc B&S
Hydro drive (freeing up A LOT of engine power)
heavy duty auger
very high speed impeller
bar wight
drift cutters
heavy duty skid shoes
Electric start (including the wire)
heated grips
Hal. light
Big Snow tires
Fuel cut off switch
biger fuel tank
and last but not least....quick turn on a dime.

IMO this monster packs more stuff for the money vs. toro.

I also have back pain with high Dr. bills. so i needed an easy snow remover too...
I'm getting mine some time next week.

Hope that helps.

Where are you at?  We're not getting any Husqvarna hydrostatic models here the Midwest.

Monsey NY 10952

call up Precision Mower & Power equipment  (845) 624-2159. ask to talk to the boss, ask him if he could get u shiped

JoelKlein wrote:
Thanks for the info, but snowblowers are those things I feel needs local sales and service support.

I hope Husqvarna is more available across the US.  Seems like they pack quite a lot in such a small price.

find out if you have a dealer close to you. if yes, ask him if "he" could get in that model. husqvarna makes all kind of models and NOT all of them is listed on the husqvarna website.

Norfolker wrote:
I know I'm late getting to this, but if you see this posting, there is another thing I've noticed about the newer Husky units.  The handles are higher than just about any machine I've seen.  I'm not too keen on that.  The Toro handles are at a nice level.  Just a thought.

I have not had the time to visit the Husky dealer not sure when I will have the time But I do want to see one up close.

aa335 wrote:
Good point about the local aspect. 

I can never understand Husqvarna for only having a 12-inch impeller across their entire line.  Also their auger gear cases seem small.  Compare to the Toro or Ariens, for example.

coasteray wrote:
I haven't looked at their gearcase closely, but my first impression is that bucket is really tall.  Are they serious, can it really swallow that much snow?

I'm getting a Husqvarna 14527 XLS tommorow late after noon. will try to take some pictures and post

Steve_Cebu wrote:

Thanks Steve, but I finally pulled the trigger, on a Toro. The 826 OXE. As it turns out my local Husky/Ariens dealer also has Toro, so the local aspect was not an issue. We decided on a smaller unit than the 1028 for a number of reasons, with immediate availability and price being just part. We picked it up on Saturday (needless to say, Norfolk Power was BUSY).

Sunday we woke up to "only" 6 inches of wet, leafed, snow.

As mentioned in another thread, I also found out that in first gear, the snow/leaf mix was not being thrown as efficiently as in 2nd or 3rd.

BTW, anyone have a good solution for a crowned drive? My (well, late father's) old 724 had a spring loaded scraper that would not cause an issue. The 826 did not like the crown.

If I raise the skids, I would still leave about an inch (or more) on the flat areas.

Anyone jury rig "temporary" removable skid extenders for when approaching the crown? Or maybe a hard rubber extension on the scraper that would deflect when hitting the crown?

Norfolker wrote:

I'm sure you'll be very happy with the 826, it's a good machine. The 1028 is too big for some people depending on how much snow you get. Having too little snow for us is never an issue. The stuff I was blowing as so jammed up that I could smell something burning, maybe the belt or clutch. The Toro 1128 has that spring loaded scraper bar, but I avoided buying it as it's one more thing to go wrong. Our driveway isn't crowned but it does tend to pull to one side or the other depending. I just use teh trigger to sort it out.

got my Husqvarna 14527-XLS.

I discovered a very strange fact.

1)      The moment the speed laver is pushed up, the snow blower starts driving “WITHOUT PRESSING DOWN ON THE DRIVE LEVER”. I had to squeeze both triggers to disengage the wheels!! Strange.

2)      After I press down the drive lever and I release is, IT WON’T STOP!

3)      I  HAVE TO MOVE THE SPEED LEVER BACK TO NEUTRAL TO STOP THE BEAST!!! “What a shame”  

I called up my dealer all upset, but the answer was: Hydrostatic drive dose have a lag after you stop it”

I called Husqvarna support. They say: Hydro drive must stop almost immediately, if I experience a “lag” I should return it.

I called back my dealer, they picked it up.

I’m awaiting an answer from them.  But I have set my mind anyway. I want to swap it out for a Toro 826 OXE.

How is the steering of the 826?

Why isn’t it working in the first gear as good as the third? (do I have to attack EOD in 3th gear?!)

Dos the 826 have a fuel shut off valve?

 

You did your research about the 826 and 1028, can you please share it so I can decide for myself?

 

Thanks for your upcoming support

JoelKlein wrote:

Ok first off it's very dangerous for a snowblower to move if you have not pressed the engagement lever. That sounds like a cable problem except you really don't have cables with a hydrostatic tranny.

Th dealer should fix the problem, hopefully they can. My Toro does not have this issue. The 1028 I have steers like a dream but like any snowblower if the driveway isn't dead flat then you have to adjust it every so often with either a slight hip nudge or a squeeze on the proper steering trigger.

Every gear works fine on my Toro (wet snow mixed with leaves excepted). No matter what brand of snowblower you have, you can overdrive it. I tackle the driveway at the speed that cleans it to pavement the best. For 6" of powder that means 4th or 5th gear easily. For 20" of EOD 1st is a better choice. My Toro works well in any gear but it all depends on conditions I rarely attack the EOD with more than 1st gear on the 1st pass. If I have to do a second pass due to the way it meets the road then I do it in 3rd or 4th gear

My 1028 has a fuel shutoff, the 826 I believe has a Briggs engine so it should have one.

The auger should NOT engage unless you depress the lever and the same goes for the drive.

Maybe you should let the dealer try and fix the problem on your Husky, if he can't then maybe he can swap you out for a Toro if he sells them. Snowblower dealers HATE to refund money. You will make an enemy for life no matter what they tell you.

If he doesn't also sell Toro then it could be an uphill battle.

Fuel shutoff valve is an easy and cheap part ($5-8) to add on. I had to add one to mine. Engine had a sticker over the cover cutout where the valve goes.

The 826 OXE does have a fuel shutoff valve. 

Thanks for your support! My dealer sells almost every brand snow blower. he said i could swap it for a 826 if I want. I just feel bad about loosing the extra 305cc the husky had... but overall the 826 "should be" much lighter to maneuver in my tiny boiler room. the husky cost me a visit to my doctor cus It was to heavy to bully in the boiler room. will go down tomorrow and talk to him live. P.S. if I buy a shed. I wold defiantly go for the the bigger 1028. Money is not so much the issue, as i'm looking to be proud of my self they I bought a top of the line snow blower... B.T.W. can some one explain me in a real life situation were a 250cc wold not perform and the 305/345cc will? in other words; were in real life expiriance dos it make a difference if its a 250 cc or bigger? Thanks

JoelKlein wrote:

The 1028 is really an incredible machine! One of the other guys in the forum got an 826 and really wishes he had bought the 1028 instead. I guess it depends on how much snow you get. I have no idea how easy or difficult the Husky is to manuever but the 1028 is pretty easy for me as long as I squeeze both triggers it's pretty easy to move. That is easily tested in the showroom. I always feel it's better to have a bit extra and not need it than wish I had it when I don't.

JoelKlein wrote:

Hello,

   I don't have any experience with the larger 1028, but I did purchase an 826 oxe last year and have a season under my belt with it now.  It does bog down a bit when trying to clear more than a foot of snow at any speed higher than second "gear".  But I have been very pleased with it.  (just sounds like it is working super hard)  It is super maneuverable with both steering triggers pressed to unlock both wheels.  I have a 400' driveway in New York and it has never let me down.  It usually rides up on the EOD in first gear the first time, then I back it up and hit it again and it scrapes down to the ground.  No big deal for me, I am rarely in a rush.  This week I tackled the super wet slush with it, and the chute did get clogged up 3-4 times requiring me to clear it out (this was on Sunday evening after the 6" had had time to slush down quite a bit).  Could be because I did not spray the auger/chute with WD40 this season like I have in the past.  I still got the whole 400' done in under an hour.  I was also pleasantly surprised to find that I can knock out the whole driveway with 1-2 " in 6th "gear" super fast and it clears down to the pavement, was not execting that with a two stage.  Let me know if you have any specific questions.  This reminds me, I have to go out to the garage and clean all the leaves out of the bucket.

Good luck,

Dan

"Great News" I Swapped the Husqvarna for a..........Toro........yes yes yes....the big brother 1028 OXE! paid the extra $300.00 and got on friday. I did notice thou, the joy stick moves the the chute around very easy, Too easy, and it swings on its own, i can't get it to stay "looked" in the 1 o'clock possition, hard right or left it holds, but not off center. is it a adjustment? Thanks

JoelKlein wrote:

Congratulations on your new Toro 1028!

The loose joystick is a dealer setup issue. They probably assembled it quickly and didn't take their time to do it right. make them get it right. I have videos of the chute working at all levels and very quickly and it stays where I put it.

You squeeze the blue on the top to move it and then release it and it stays put. Have them adjust the cable.

Honestly it sounds like this dealer isn't a place I'd want to service my machine. If they tell you that's the way it normally is tell them BullS#1T! and have them fix it right.

Will call my dealer AGAIN... What about gas? Do i have any gain of using 93?

JoelKlein wrote:

No, you don't need 93 octane. I just run whatever my local gas station has and I run the cheap stuff and then I put in stabilizer. I'm usinng a different brand than Stabil but so far it really gets rid of the ethanol and water in the gas. Those are alway a problem. My dealer told me to run the cheap stuff and it works great.

i put in in my SUV 93, So I planed on using it in the SB as well. will 93 "hurt" on make better performance in a SB engine?

My dealer sold me the StarTron Enzyme Fuel Treatment. is that a good chice, or you know of a better one?

Thanks so much for your help steve!

The higher the oct. - the harder to start but 93 is fine if it makes you feel better.

Octane is not the issue. Bring back MTBE

what about the StarTron Enzyme Fuel Treatment, is it a good choice?

A local Toro only dealer told me not to use gas with ethanol in a snowblower. Of course he sold the gas without ethanol.

JoelKlein wrote:

I'm on my 3rd year using Startron and I think it's great. The Honda dealer uses it in all their Honda equipment so I figure why not use it in mine.

I use a bit more than it says on the bottle. But a capful treats like 5 gallons. a 2 years supply costs $10.

Garth wrote:

All gas sold in our state has Ethanol

You can use Startron or other additives to deal with teh ethanol and water that inevitably comes from mixing grain alcohol with proper gasoline.

I really don't like Obama gas and I really hate Obama Gas cans that spill more gas than they put in your tank.

***confused*** Enzyme, stabilizer, additive, what do i choose? is it all the same idea just diffrent names? Startron has stabilezer, and enzyme. i already got the the StarTron Enzyme Fuel Treatment, should i return it?

JoelKlein wrote:

Startron does everything you will need it to do. It's great stuff just put it in your gas and you are all set for the year.

Other products like Sta-Bil and Sea Foam are good too but Startron works just as well for treating your gas.

You want a stabilizer and enzyme in your gas.

talking of stabilyzer's, what about puting it in in my car once a while to clean the lines?

JoelKlein wrote:

It certainly can't hurt but it will add up as one $10 bottle of Startron treats about 185 gallons. I put some in my car every once in a while in the winter.

Interesting about the stated recommendations for gas

My dealer said 89 octane, yet the Briggs & Stratton manual says "a minimum of 87 octane"

Also I thought stabilizer was for storage. During the use season, the fuel is used too quickly to absorb enough water to be damaging

 

and please, Steve, about the "Obama gas", let's not get political nor be like the "debaters" last night who picked easy and erroneous targets for all our problems.

Ethanol has NOTHING to do with Obama. In 1990 & 1992 the Clean Air Act was amended to encourage the use of ethanol and other oxygenated fuels. In 2003 Calif was the first to ban MTBE. In Dec 2008, I had to have the carburetors in an old Toro 724 and my lawn tractor replaced due to ethanol. Obama took office in Jan 2009.

You would be more accurate to call it "Bush League Gas" as G.H.W.B. was in office when the Clean Air Act was amended and started the ball rolling. Or call it "Nixon Gas" because he proposed the formation of the EPA and it began operation in Dec 1970.

Just the facts, my friend, just the facts.

You call it what you like, I hate having ethanol in my gas and I hate the damn Kalifornia gas cans. I'm so opposed to political correctness you cannot begin to imagine it.

So I'll use the words and terms I like and you can use yours. It's one of the few freedoms we have left and PC is even taking that away from us.

So you can call it Bush-gas if you want. I'll call it Obama gas. Also fits because 10% ethanol gas is a hassle and less effective just like politics.

Seems like this topic can be quite volatile. 

time to build a water engine...

About oil. Whice oil are you using? How often to you check the oil? How often did you have to Add oil? How often do you make a oil change? Dose a brand new engine need a early oil change to wash out possible menufactoring particles ? Hope don't ask to much questions, I'm brand new to the world of small engines... Thanks !

JoelKlein wrote:
Remove the cover just behind the chute,.  Use a nutdriver,  Ensure that when you "press" the joystick button, the gear under the removed cover becomes unlocked, allowing the chute to move...The cable is installed at the factory..