Outdoor Power Equipment (Lawn Mowers, Snow Blowers, Chain Saws and more) Discussions

Quick intro: From eastern Mass (half way between Boston and Providence RI). Need to invest in a snow blower that is robust yet easy to steer - well, one that has a good steering system. I'm about to have L4 & L5 vertebrae fused and during the healing process will need a blower that won't make me screw things up by bulling it around. Anyway, been doing a lot of research (lots of free time - disabled from work until back is fixed) and I am narrowing my search down to the Toro's OEX's (Power Max 826OEX, 828OEX, or 1028 OEX) and the Husky with power steering and the high impeller speed (11524E & 14527E) Questions, how do these steer? At this point that is the priority, I will tackle the other differences later. OR do you know of a RELIABLE machine that needs no body twisting or pulling to steer it. (I read reports that Troy-Bilt have unreliable reverse gears) thanks -Bill

Norfolker wrote:
I know I'm late getting to this, but if you see this posting, there is another thing I've noticed about the newer Husky units.  The handles are higher than just about any machine I've seen.  I'm not too keen on that.  The Toro handles are at a nice level.  Just a thought.

I have not had the time to visit the Husky dealer not sure when I will have the time But I do want to see one up close.

aa335 wrote:
Good point about the local aspect. 

I can never understand Husqvarna for only having a 12-inch impeller across their entire line.  Also their auger gear cases seem small.  Compare to the Toro or Ariens, for example.

coasteray wrote:
I haven't looked at their gearcase closely, but my first impression is that bucket is really tall.  Are they serious, can it really swallow that much snow?

I'm getting a Husqvarna 14527 XLS tommorow late after noon. will try to take some pictures and post

Steve_Cebu wrote:

Thanks Steve, but I finally pulled the trigger, on a Toro. The 826 OXE. As it turns out my local Husky/Ariens dealer also has Toro, so the local aspect was not an issue. We decided on a smaller unit than the 1028 for a number of reasons, with immediate availability and price being just part. We picked it up on Saturday (needless to say, Norfolk Power was BUSY).

Sunday we woke up to "only" 6 inches of wet, leafed, snow.

As mentioned in another thread, I also found out that in first gear, the snow/leaf mix was not being thrown as efficiently as in 2nd or 3rd.

BTW, anyone have a good solution for a crowned drive? My (well, late father's) old 724 had a spring loaded scraper that would not cause an issue. The 826 did not like the crown.

If I raise the skids, I would still leave about an inch (or more) on the flat areas.

Anyone jury rig "temporary" removable skid extenders for when approaching the crown? Or maybe a hard rubber extension on the scraper that would deflect when hitting the crown?

Norfolker wrote:

I'm sure you'll be very happy with the 826, it's a good machine. The 1028 is too big for some people depending on how much snow you get. Having too little snow for us is never an issue. The stuff I was blowing as so jammed up that I could smell something burning, maybe the belt or clutch. The Toro 1128 has that spring loaded scraper bar, but I avoided buying it as it's one more thing to go wrong. Our driveway isn't crowned but it does tend to pull to one side or the other depending. I just use teh trigger to sort it out.

got my Husqvarna 14527-XLS.

I discovered a very strange fact.

1)      The moment the speed laver is pushed up, the snow blower starts driving “WITHOUT PRESSING DOWN ON THE DRIVE LEVER”. I had to squeeze both triggers to disengage the wheels!! Strange.

2)      After I press down the drive lever and I release is, IT WON’T STOP!

3)      I  HAVE TO MOVE THE SPEED LEVER BACK TO NEUTRAL TO STOP THE BEAST!!! “What a shame”  

I called up my dealer all upset, but the answer was: Hydrostatic drive dose have a lag after you stop it”

I called Husqvarna support. They say: Hydro drive must stop almost immediately, if I experience a “lag” I should return it.

I called back my dealer, they picked it up.

I’m awaiting an answer from them.  But I have set my mind anyway. I want to swap it out for a Toro 826 OXE.

How is the steering of the 826?

Why isn’t it working in the first gear as good as the third? (do I have to attack EOD in 3th gear?!)

Dos the 826 have a fuel shut off valve?

 

You did your research about the 826 and 1028, can you please share it so I can decide for myself?

 

Thanks for your upcoming support

JoelKlein wrote:

Ok first off it's very dangerous for a snowblower to move if you have not pressed the engagement lever. That sounds like a cable problem except you really don't have cables with a hydrostatic tranny.

Th dealer should fix the problem, hopefully they can. My Toro does not have this issue. The 1028 I have steers like a dream but like any snowblower if the driveway isn't dead flat then you have to adjust it every so often with either a slight hip nudge or a squeeze on the proper steering trigger.

Every gear works fine on my Toro (wet snow mixed with leaves excepted). No matter what brand of snowblower you have, you can overdrive it. I tackle the driveway at the speed that cleans it to pavement the best. For 6" of powder that means 4th or 5th gear easily. For 20" of EOD 1st is a better choice. My Toro works well in any gear but it all depends on conditions I rarely attack the EOD with more than 1st gear on the 1st pass. If I have to do a second pass due to the way it meets the road then I do it in 3rd or 4th gear

My 1028 has a fuel shutoff, the 826 I believe has a Briggs engine so it should have one.

The auger should NOT engage unless you depress the lever and the same goes for the drive.

Maybe you should let the dealer try and fix the problem on your Husky, if he can't then maybe he can swap you out for a Toro if he sells them. Snowblower dealers HATE to refund money. You will make an enemy for life no matter what they tell you.

If he doesn't also sell Toro then it could be an uphill battle.

Fuel shutoff valve is an easy and cheap part ($5-8) to add on. I had to add one to mine. Engine had a sticker over the cover cutout where the valve goes.