Outdoor Power Equipment (Lawn Mowers, Snow Blowers, Chain Saws and more) Discussions

I know this is neither the season nor the OPE that comes to mind in the dead of winter but I am looking for advice on the purchase of my first chainsaw. Giving the thoroughness of the reviews of snowblowers, I believe the same expertise is there for other OPE's such as chainsaws. Looking for a chainsaw for home use that includes managing timber on my property and maintaining an adequate supply of firewood. No problem splitting the wood with a wedge and sledge. I understand Stihl is outsatnding quality and friends recommend that I get a 20 inch bade. I would expect to use the saw 2-4 times/year. Beyond that I'm looking to see what other say with respect to size, manufactures, model numbers, etc. Thanks in advance. Chris

wrecked wrote:
I see it as a combination of both.  Lower stressed 2 cycle engines(at least what i see as lower stressed) in leaf blowers and weed wackers seem to always be easier to start than chainsaws-generally speaking, and seem more tolerant of overpriming, at least to me.  When i look at all the 2 cycle ope that i have used, the saws stand out as the cranky ones- especially the three stihls i've used.  One thing that i'm sure doesn't help are the "EPA" carbs that we have to deal with now.  When i store my saw for the winter, i squirt some 2 cycle oil down the plug hole and cranks it gently and then replace the plug.  that's it.  the Gas is stabalized (my premix has synthetic and has stabs added- i think most prob are that way)

2-cycle engines are sensitive to flooding. However, if you follow the standard operating instructions for starting, you never will flood the engine. Now as a engine gets old, the documentation becomes boges and you will have to learn your machine to the way it is. I think if you follow stihls starting instructions, that should work for most 2-cycle chainsaws

Solution...

Self starting...

No messy fuel mixing...

No chain replacing...








Dave...

Cute, But much higher maintenance You can't leave alone in the garage for months on end...

Dave___in___CT wrote:
You know the old saying......save a tree....................

Hi gang this is my first post so be kind. Let me introduce myself, My name is Pat and I have been a OPE sales representative for 12 years in Atlantic Canada. First of all as far as the length of the bar is concerned they must grow pretty big trees where you guys are to need a 20" bar. That would mean you are cutting trees up to 40" in diameter. Remember you start with your notch and can then walk around the tree. Now the kickback issues, lets think about a pendulum, the more weight the longer it swings, well when a saw kick back it is very similar, kickback occurs when the top part of the tip comes on contact with the log, the chain grabs and the spinning chain "pushes" the bar upwards. Now with a smaller bar there is less weight and better chance to control kickback if it is not severe.  The other thing to consider is that with a longer bar the balance of the saw is not right, making it harder to use, it is heavier, and will have less power to the chain due to longer length. Now as for the topic of priming, most new epa carbs will dump any excess fuel you primed right back into the fuel tank. That way there is not excess fuel to be burned and therefore less polution.

Okay - so you are what I would call a typical homeowner. (Remembering that I work in a small engine repair shop and my main focus is chain saws)

My first question to yu would be what do you intend to do.  You've all ready answered that.

My next question, how much will you be using the saw.  You've answewred that.

As soon as anyone says firewood - I steer them away from the smaller saws.  Usually 50cc's and under.  Firewood is the hardest thing a saw owner can do with a saw, therefore the smaller saws don't tend to far so well.

Something starting at 50cc's nothing longer then an 18" bar is what I would recommend.  Unless you are getting mammoth sized firewood or have large trees on your property.

Now I do realize that we live in totally different areas.  I do serve a lot of the men and women that work in the forestry industry around here and they choose different brands of saws for different reasons.  So the brand that you choose should be researched well.  I can go on about what's popular here for the work you want to do, but that doesn't mean that it's going to be popular where you are.  For instance, there are a lot of firewood cutters here using the 359 Husqvarna, the RedMax G5000 and Shindaiwa 488.  I haven't seen the Shindaiwa name listed here before (or if I did I forgot), but they are good saws.  If you asked someone here about Echo or Poulan they'd look at you like you had horns.  Different places - different faces type deal.

That's just my $0.01 worth.

Sherri

Some good points Sherri, now let me add to that. There are a few things that can make a difference in the price of a saw, one is the motor, is it an open port or a closed port motor, another is the crankcase is it metal or plastic, the brake, inertia or not. But what also has to be said is that today chainsaws are massed produced, with high quality material and excellent quality control. Most problem with chainsaws are customer induced. If you buy a Husqvarna, Jonsered (these 2 are the same) Stihl, Echo, Shindaiwa (my choice) what you have to look at also is where are you buying it. If you go buy your Ech at Home depot, do you bring it back for service there? Please please please, look very closely at your OPE dealer. Look at his showroom, is it clean, and well stocked, his parts dept, well stocked? His service dept is it neat and tidy.Thses simple things will reflect on the quality of work that the dealer does. I suggest you purchase what you can afford and a saw that is designed to do the job you want to do with it.

Okay - as most of the home owners around this area have found out, "box stores" may be cheap, but because of the mass production, quality maybe affected.  We have models here that are rated for 5 hours use, throw it away and buy new ones.

"Box stores" dictate how much they are willing to pay for a product and the manufacturer has to then look at how (more then likely less $$$) they can adapt the product.  More then likely the quality of the item is going to suffer.

If the "box store" you are looking at has a repair/part spot by all means go there.  But if not you have to find out where the servicing dealer is and maybe check around and see if there have been any complaints with his/her service.  Everything should be run and safety features checked, before saw is put into new owners hands.  Whether it be a saw, snowblower, lawn mower, etc...

Now with having that (I'm running, covering my head) out of the way, if you are not choosing a "box store" find a dealer in your area that is willing to talk to you and spend time talking to you about your needs.  If the dealer doesn't seem to have time for you - go else where.  If they don't have time to sell you something - what is the repair time going to be like?  Is the part you need going to be easy to get or are you going to have to sit your equipment up for long periods of time? 

There is so much that needs to be said here, but I figure that I must be rambling by now, so I'll let it go atthat.

Sherri

"find a dealer in your area that is willing to talk to you and spend time talking to you about your needs.  If the dealer doesn't seem to have time for you - go else where."

Could not have said it better myself. Also some companies offer a money back guarantee, that if you are not happy with your purchase they will exchange the saw or refund your money, I know Shindaiwa does and I think Stihl, and funny, both of these models are sold throught servicing dealers ONLY.

Pat