I have a new Honda HS928TCD blower.  Apparently a change was made in the past for the shear pins for the HS928 so now there are two types available, depending on the frame serial number. The older style pins have a P/N of  95701-06016-00 and the newer style is 92101-06016-0A. Since I have a bunch of the older style shear pins, I am wondering what the nature of the change was and if the older type of shear pins will work for the newer model.  If the old style is used on the new frame type, is there a danger to the gearcase because the shearing point is different?  See  http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Honda/Snow%20Blower/0/HS928%20WAS%20SNOW%20BLOWER%2C%20JPN%2C%20VIN%23%20SZAS-1100001%20TO%20SZAS-1129999/AUGER/parts.html for the illustrations.  Any ideas out there?

My dealer's price on the bolts were cheaper than the nuts.  WTF?  Next time I'm buying a bag of Stainless flange nuts (6mm) and getting for much less from another source.  Make sure the shear bolts you use are good for the job or the auger will self destruct.  I know a machinist and will ask what he thinks.  My dealer charges almost $4 the flange nuts and $1.50 for the bolts.  I didn't mind the bolt prices but the flange nuts were a total ripoff.

BTW I'd like to sell off my WAS 928 as we didn't get enough snow this year to warrant the purchase in Dec. was hoping to get work out of it.  Played with it in only 4" snow to see how it handles and it is great.  Just don't want to store it until next season while all the people around us got pounded.  Like to recoupe my investment.  Have the factory shop manual and owner's manual.  Not sure how to post contact info or if it's allowed.  I'm in Pittsburgh and will post on Craigslist soon.

For Honda bolt, nut, and general parts, the first five digits of the part number are the function and component code. The next five are the bolt or nut dimensions. The next digit is the ISO code and the last number is the chemical surface treatment code. I suspect Honda made a surface treatment change to the bolt; maybe they changed it from zinc to something else and changed it from a flange bolt to a regular hex bolt. 

If you do some cross referencing  with the Honda snowblower shear bolt number 95701-06016-00 you will find that bolt is used on thousands of Honda applications. Everything from Honda automobiles, Honda motorcycles, Honda outboard motors etc. It appears the shear bolt is not a specially treated or tempered bolt at all. It is just an ordinary metric grade 8.8 bolt. By the way, as mentioned in other responses, a metric grade 8.8 is roughly equivalent to a SAE grade 5 bolt. I wouldn't use a metric grade 10.9 or SAE grade 8 bolt as a shear bolt. Its shear strength may be too high for the auger gear box.

I also would not use a SAE grade 2 bolt as some people suggest. These bolts tend to bend and smear instead of shearing off cleanly. Just try to remove a smeared bolt and observe the damage it has done to the mating parts and you'll understand.

You can order the Honda flange bolt from numerous online Honda auto dealers for a lot less than you can from many Honda Powersports dealers.  Hondapartsnow.com sells them for $0.58 each. Locking hex nuts are extremely cheap when bought by the package. Or just buy any hex M6-1.00 x16 grade 8.8 bolt. If you want  it to be a flange bolt however, it may be very hard to find at a local hardware store. Just use a washer. You can also change from metric to SAE. Just use 1/4 - 28 x 5/8. They may be even cheaper.

This is all my two cents worth, based on a lot of research after I got sick of being ripped off when I had to pay $2 for a little bolt that was said to be something "special".  My HS1132TA gets lots of use up here in the mountains around Tahoe and eats up those shear pins left and right. Not a fault of the machine though, my 600' driveway is required by local ordinances to have a 1' x 2' gravel filled trench all around it. Those rocks tend to mysteriously find there way into the auger no matter how hard I try to stay away from the edge. Especially at night. 

By the way, it seems everyone around Lake Tahoe has a Honda snowblower and the local hardware stores sell thousands of ordinary metric 8.8 hex bolts. Guess what they are used for? They also have OEM Honda bolts if you want to pay 5 times as much. 

Thanks Skibum - this is good to know.  Best info on it I've seen.  Haven't had to replace a shearpin yet - but then my gravel drive was well prepared with a hard snow base already laid down when I got the Honda.  Next year it'll probably be different -  first few blows always see lotsa gravel thru the chute. 

Woof,

Would love to see some pictures of your 928TCD.  You are one of the few with the fancy HS928 model. 

Thanks SKIBUM!

I didn't know all that about the HS928 shear pins and it was GREAT info....

My dealer here is ONE BEYOND a GOUGE ARTIST and I want to order a bunch of shear pins for my parts drawer to have some on hand! 

I just bought my blower new this month so I am assuming it is the last number pin or the NEW pin for me!

Having said that I am asking you...

Do you know the HONDA "order part number" for the fancy nilock nut with built in washer flange?

I mean I went and saw & you are exactly right that the shear pin BOLT is a bolt you can readily get from Honda parts places...I'd like to get the "nut" too...

May as well as I am ordering it anyway....so I can order them at the same time!

Thanks for the great info!

BEERZ

Hi guys, I am new to the forum but have been lurking for a while... I have a HS928 shear bolt question as well... I bought a HS928TCD (Canadian model) used and got to use this afternoon for the first time. 2 issues : I broke a bolt on one of the augers. Problem is the bolt that broke is not the one that I think is supposed to shear. If you look at this parts diagram : http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Honda/Snow%20Blower/0/HS928%20WAS%20SNOW%20BLOWER%2C%20JPN%2C%20VIN%23%20SZAS-1100001%20TO%20SZAS-1129999/AUGER/parts.html The bolt that broke is #9. Isn't bolt #13 the one that is supposed to sacrifice itself? Either way, the effect is the same: the auger is now loose and spins freely. I've checked the bolts #13 and they are Grade 8.8 metric bolts, which I think is the proper grade for these. Is it normal for bolt #9 to break? Something leads me to believe that the previous owner changed out the #9 with a random bolt that wasn't necessarily the proper strength. Should the #9 bolt be a softer bolt just like the #13 or can it be a higher grade bolt? I will need to replace it so curious what I need to buy. Also, I broke a track shear pin while trying to dig out the fire hydrant in front of my yard. Is there a non-Honda replacement to those or do I need to buy the Honda pin? Thanks so much guys! Jeff NB, Canada

Thanks - Just still not sure if that "pin" needs to be a stronger steel than the actual shear bolt (#13)? My Honda dealer is far away and if I can get away with it I will replace the "pin" with something else - unless there is a value to having it there...?

nvestr wrote:

One thing to note is that Honda shear bolts are sensitive to overtorque.  It will stretch the bolt and cause premature shearing.  I've done this and was about to get stronger shear bolts so I don't have to replace them so often.  Don't do this.  The shear bolt is held on by a Nyloc type nut.  This prevents the nut from spinning off the bolt.    Just tighten the nut until it is snug up against the plastic block, no more than that.

I don't know of aftermarket shear bolts are made to the same specs as the Honda original parts, they might be.  I just want don't want to experiment and risk an expensive gearbox.  I don't break shear bolts as often now so cost isn't an issue, and when I do break one, it is because I went over something hard, and the shear bolts function as it should.