Outdoor Power Equipment (Lawn Mowers, Snow Blowers, Chain Saws and more) Discussions

I would have to assume I already have 5 hours and being its 50 degrees outside, I figure its a great time. When I bought the machine I had the dealer put in B&Stratton 5w30 synthetic oil but it was the last one. Called around to a few places but seems nobondy has it in stock. Do I buy it online or can I use Mobil 1 synthetic 5w30 in its place. My plan was to stick with one oil for the life of the motor. My second question is does this motor have a filter, I would say not. Just trying to make sure. Is there anything else I should do after the first 5 hours?

I wish I had the ambition to answer each point your entire post but unfortunately I don't.  

What you've said is pretty much the same old, same old that we get from the  "short on experience/long on magazine advertising propaganda" crowd.  I do participate in BITOG forums.  There are numerous participant there that aren't as enamoured with synthetic oil as you may suggest. 

Despite my desire not to embellish your response, i will say this:

Your repeated effort to support the cost of using synthetic oil by suggesting that you'll do a better job of protecting a $1500.00 investment rings pretty hollow when conventional oil will do as good a job for a fraction of the cost. 

As many will testify, most OPE engines outlast the machines they're mounted on.  Those same engines received nothing but conventional oil.  So, considering that there's no real or perceived advantage in spending the extra money on synthetic oil for the above application, one must ask, why would they?  

One other point, anyone smart enough not to waste money needlessly on expensive oil, doesn't  need opinionated financial advice from some unqualified OPE forum participant. 

 Wisdom is a precious gift.   The first step to achieving it is to heed the wise.

Further to the fouling spark plug issue. 

I pulled the plug to see if it was developing the same fouling issues and ended up breaking it.  Due to the extreme cold, my normally flexible plastic engine cowling wasn't as flexible hence a broken spark plug.   Just as well, I don't particularly like Champion plugs.  I've replaced it with an NGK platinum.

The business parts of the plug look good. I noticed a bit of oil residue around the surface of the threaded portion but that could be residual deposits that were on the engine head. This plug has approx. 4-5 hours on it. In my view, not really enough to prove anything one way or the other but it does look promising.

 

Ok! Now I feel drunk and light headed after reading this enntire thread. lol

When I bought my blower, I asked what oil do they recommend. And they responded by "any 5w30". I asked for an extra quart being I wanted the same oil if I needed to "top it off". When I mentioned synthetic he told me its a little easier to start when its very cold but its personal preferance. He mentioned "many are reading about the advantages online and I only have one left". I asked about breaking in the engine and was told all engines are ran for 1 hour at differant rpms before there sold. So with that I had him drain the oil and replace it with briggs/stratton synthetic. Figured I cant go wrong, NEVERMIND whats 8.50 for a quart of oil after I just spent $1500.00 on the machine.

I just ordered two 32oz containers of briggs synthetic from ebay. I will stick with this stuff for now. Thanks for the replies.

stresst wrote:

Acording to my friend who works for an engine rebuild company, it takes longer than an hour to break in a motor and seat the rings, etc.

If you are set on using synthetic, that is your choice. I would still think you may want to break it in proper with some good oil first,

Just an opinion,

Good Luck

stresst wrote:

Although Honda does label some engine oil as their own, their blower manual simply says "Use a 4-stroke automotive detergent oil" and in the next paragraph goes on to say "....use API SERVICE category SJ or later (or equivalent)...".

I am not a petroleum or automotive engineer, but here's my take on synthetics: their main advantage for almost any application is their ability to run much longer than conventional oils without losing their ability to lubricate. However, I don't believe these small engines are as fussy as some people like to believe (if they were, every one of these motors would be junk in 3 years), and that given that these engines are so unstressed there is little reason to choose synthetic. With few exceptions, snowblowers get run less than a dozen hours a season. If I ran a business with mine, I'd change the oil more often, but given how little they're used, I change it once a season. At most.

It reminds me of people changing their car oil every 3,000 miles "just to be sure", when the manufacturer's recommendation is 7,500 miles. If it makes you feel better, by all means change your oil over twice as often as necessary. But it is wasting money.

Borat, something seems fishey with "The engine has 155 lbs. cold compression."

"Seems", because I don't know Briggs.  That would be an extreamly high number for a Tecumseh (warm) and would indicate something odd rather than good.  How does a compression test sneak by Briggs compression release?   There are a number of people here with new Briggs-Murray machines.  Mabye a few could post some compression tests. 

On engines alive and kicking after 20 years on dino being proof that dino is good enough is a not much of a qualifier.  Some might say their engine is as tight as the day they bought it but from seeing many older engines I have not seen one has not degraded.  Run, toss and acceptably yes, plenty, but peak no.  I've never seen older excellent engines toss as well as a rebuild or one of the new 6.5 HF OHVs on similar body styles.  I ripped through the cemetary this week with a 7hp rebuild on a Areins ST724 and it was great.  It had not tossed that well in many years.

There is too much published on the added "slipryness" having a positive effect on rings and bore to deny.  How much another question.  No degredation curves for dino or synthetic that I know of.  If anyone has some please post the URL.

"Borat, something seems fishey with "The engine has 155 lbs. cold compression.""


Pulled the spark plug, screwed in the compression tester, spun the engine with electric start, reading was 150 psi.   I'm not aware if this engine has a compression release mechanism or not. 

Either way, if you don't believe me, take a compression tester into a dealership with same engine and see if they'll allow you to take a reading on a new 305cc Kool Bore engine.  See for yourself what reading you get.  Please let us know what the compression reads when you do. 

edited to correct compression reading.  It was 150 psi.  not 155 psi.  So, Trouts appears to have reasonable grounds to be suspicious after all.

As I mentioned before I bought my son a Briggs Powered Simplicity Model#1060DLXE in 2005. The dealer showed me a document that stated if you used Briggs/Simplicity Dealer Line Synthetic OIl it would double your engine warranty.Even at $6 a quart  it seemed like an inexpensive way to score an extended warranty. 

My unit which is powered by an L Head Tecumseh has seen 5-30 Amsoil since new. The advantage of the synthetic is it doesen't get as viscous as the conventional oil in cold temps and therefore flows better. I know that there is less resistance in the starter rope when cold than when I used conventional oil in a previous machine. I store my machine in an unheated shed and when cold using conventional oil it felt like the crank was turning through pudding.  

Marc

 

It was -24C here this morning.  Machine sits in an unheated garage.   I replaced the spark plug in my B&S engine then took it out to fire it up.  I have not experienced a noticeable difference in pulling effort between synthetic and convention oil of the same viscosity.

Borat "I'm not aware if this engine has a compression release mechanism or not." It does.

I challanged Friiy on this a long time ago. I later looked into it more and found they all have compression release of one form or another. They have to or you would not be able to pull past the compression stroke or rip your arm in the effort.

The 10hp I used in the cemetery tests has an outstanding engine just about new. It leak-down tests at 7-8% which is super. It compression tests at 60lb. I can spin the engine all day and it won't get beyond 60.

The exhaust valve opens before the piston can get to full extension so it's impossible to get a high reading. Compression release is engaged at very low rpm like starting rope speed. That's how compression releases work.

Depending on the engine either the exhaust or intake valve is raised before the piston can get very far into the compression stroke. That makes it easy to turn the crank. There is enough compression for starting but not full compression at the moment the fire starts.

Once the piston fires the crank immediatly spins at a rapid rate the comression release gets pushed out of the way (on mechanical types) and the engine compression stroke then works normally.

I'm not saying Borat is fishey. I'm saying the test result is fishey.

I don't know Briggs but they have to have CR or manual starting would not be possible.

The engine spins fairly fast with electric start.  Maybe there's a possibility the compression release is over-ridden by the speed of the electric start.

 Would you like me to do a compression test and take a picture of the reading for you Trouts?