Outdoor Power Equipment (Lawn Mowers, Snow Blowers, Chain Saws and more) Discussions

I would have to assume I already have 5 hours and being its 50 degrees outside, I figure its a great time. When I bought the machine I had the dealer put in B&Stratton 5w30 synthetic oil but it was the last one. Called around to a few places but seems nobondy has it in stock. Do I buy it online or can I use Mobil 1 synthetic 5w30 in its place. My plan was to stick with one oil for the life of the motor. My second question is does this motor have a filter, I would say not. Just trying to make sure. Is there anything else I should do after the first 5 hours?

It was -24C here this morning.  Machine sits in an unheated garage.   I replaced the spark plug in my B&S engine then took it out to fire it up.  I have not experienced a noticeable difference in pulling effort between synthetic and convention oil of the same viscosity.

Borat "I'm not aware if this engine has a compression release mechanism or not." It does.

I challanged Friiy on this a long time ago. I later looked into it more and found they all have compression release of one form or another. They have to or you would not be able to pull past the compression stroke or rip your arm in the effort.

The 10hp I used in the cemetery tests has an outstanding engine just about new. It leak-down tests at 7-8% which is super. It compression tests at 60lb. I can spin the engine all day and it won't get beyond 60.

The exhaust valve opens before the piston can get to full extension so it's impossible to get a high reading. Compression release is engaged at very low rpm like starting rope speed. That's how compression releases work.

Depending on the engine either the exhaust or intake valve is raised before the piston can get very far into the compression stroke. That makes it easy to turn the crank. There is enough compression for starting but not full compression at the moment the fire starts.

Once the piston fires the crank immediatly spins at a rapid rate the comression release gets pushed out of the way (on mechanical types) and the engine compression stroke then works normally.

I'm not saying Borat is fishey. I'm saying the test result is fishey.

I don't know Briggs but they have to have CR or manual starting would not be possible.

The engine spins fairly fast with electric start.  Maybe there's a possibility the compression release is over-ridden by the speed of the electric start.

 Would you like me to do a compression test and take a picture of the reading for you Trouts? 

Just a thought,

Is it possible that in Borats test, since he was using the 'Electric Start', that the RPMs were high enough to disengage the CR.

This might have given the higher compression that would not be seen with a manual pull???

   I don't think he would get 155 without electric start so assume he was using electric.  Once CR is ingaged it's impossible to get beyond a certain PSI range, at least on Tecumseh.  I'm not sure about Briggs BUT if CR could kick out at electric start speeds the resistance would be too much for electric start motors which would quickly overheat and crap out.

borat wrote:

Don't worry, thats OK Borat, truth be told, I didn't read anything you wrote after this first sentence in your reply to me.  What's the point, really?  You shared your opinion, I shared my opinion and everyone else in the thread can listen to that or chime in with their own. Everyone wins.
That's the great thing about forums.  Seems like you're taking it a wee bit too personal and you shouldn't, really.  Happy snow blowing.

trouts2 wrote:
I corrected my original post to read 150 psi. not 155.   So, your suspicions weren't unfounded.