Outdoor Power Equipment (Lawn Mowers, Snow Blowers, Chain Saws and more) Discussions

This is a Honda HS621 single stage snowblower.  It is at least 10 years old, I think more like 12 years old.  It had been in good service all these years.  However, most of these years it did not receive the TLC it should have gotten considering the caliber of this machine.  I thought it would only do justice it I to take on the task of making it look beautiful and fully functional again.

Things that were done in the last two years:

1. Auger housing completely stripped down to bare metal.  Primed and painted in black gloss.
   
2. Metal auger repainted also in black gloss
   
3. New set of OEM rubber paddles and augers
4. New OEM drive belt
5. New scraper bar
   
6. Replaced missing or rusted screws and various hardware
7. Repainted red plastic top cover and side belt cover with Krylon Fusion red paint
   

Things to be competed shortly, parts on order:

1. Replace wheels, washer, and cotter pin
2. Replace springs on the chute ratchet
3. Replace chute collar
4. Affix new Honda and warning/caution labels

That should pretty much covers it to bring it to full showroom condition and operational specs.  Total costs of parts ~ $200, $30 in paint supplies, and several nights of work. 

And now here are a few pictures. 

I have never done a valve adjustment on any these small honda motors.  I read the instructions on how to do it but I was never sure that
it really needed to be done. Has anyone done this?

I did a valve adjustment on my B&S Intek engine just a few days ago.  They weren't too far from spec but out nonetheless.  Not that big of a deal but needs to be done right.  Turn the engine slowly until the piston is just past TDC and both valves are in the up position for the compression stroke.  Take the appropriate feeler gauge and take a reading. Hold the set screw tightly and loosen lock nut.  Adjust the set set screw to manual specification.  Adjust toward the loose end of the range.  "Tappy valves are happy valves."  The hardest part is keeping the set screw in the correct position while tightening up the lock nut.  It takes a few attempts to get it right.  Take a reading after every setting to make sure it's right.  Do adjustments with cold engine.

Great thread and good job with that Honda. I just picked one of these up today and in no small part due to what I've been reading on this forum and others like it. I paid $230 CND for it. Starts on the first pull, minor rust (to be expected) and otherwise looks fine. One thing that is wrong with it however is that the choke gets stuck when you pull it out and will not go back without getting under the motor and manually pushing the lever(?). Now, I'm no mechanic and not all that mechanically inclined but I like to tinker and I'm no fool so I ask you folks on this forum what steps I should go through in getting this thing ready for the winter. I purchased it for my parents so I want it running trouble free for them. Another thing I noticed was that it is pretty loud! Now, this might just be normal but it's a four stroke and I was expecting it to run a little quieter I guess. I suppose what I'm asking is what are the typical things to check on a used snowblower?
Thanks all.

Steve

smp22 wrote: Congradulations on your new HS621.  This is a nice blower.  Mine is not very loud. That said, I guess loud is a relative term. Post some photos when you get a chance and don't let the rust get ahold of that impeller assembly.

Seems like you got a good deal for C$230 for a 621 with some light rust.

If the engine sounds loud, check the muffler for internal rust.  The baffles may have rusted away.  You may need to buy a new muffler or find a used part.  I'm not sure how comfortable taking things apart, but refer to this parts diagram to make it easier.  Take pictures as you go along so you can review them when you you put things back together.

http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Honda/Snow%20Blower/0/HS621%20A-A%20SNOW%20BLOWER%2C%20JPN%2C%20VIN%23%20SZAN-1000001%20TO%20SZAN-1038238/FRONT%20COVER/parts.html

I would start with checking the auger drive belt for tension.  Take off the belt cover on the left side with a 10mm socket.  Adjust the belt tension if it seems loose.  You want to adjust so the belt doesn't slip on the pulley, but not too tight.  If its stretched and you run out of adjustments, replace with a new belt.  There is a metal plate with a whole bunch of holes on it.   Place your bail cable and the tension spring closer together to get more tension.  Be careful and wear gloves to protect your hands while working on this part.  Also, wear eye protection, those springs can fly and will hurt.

The next item to check is the rubber auger and paddle blades.    If it looks worn and leave large gap between the rubber and the housing, or frayed, replace them with OEM parts.  You can get aftermarket ones for 1/3 or 1/2 price of OEM, but it may not lasts as long.

Next, check the plastic scraper bar.  There should be some material to cover the metal bar and should be the same thickness across the front.  Replace if it looks thin or you see any metal from the bucket showing.  You should always replace the scraper bar when you get new rubber paddles.  Otherwise, you will wear out your new rubber real fast.

Next move on the chute.  The left and right movement should be consistent and snaps into detents, no sticking at either extreme.  It it is, then there something between the collar and base.  You can take the chute off and clean the interface.  Put a thin layer of grease to make it rotate smoothly.  Don't use too much because the grease will attract sand and turn into "sandpaper"

Next check the chute deflector.  It should move up and down consistently, again no sticking.  There should be some drag friction on it as you move up and down.  There should be plastic washers on the slot that provides friction.  Check that these washer have at least 1/16" thickness.  If they are too thin, replace them.  Tighten the bolts to get a enough friction to hold the chute deflector in position when the snow hits it , but not too much that it's difficult for the operator to move.  Tighten the nut in small increment equally on both sides until it feels "right".  Make sure the nut is a Nyloc type so it doesn't vibrate off.

Next is to warm up the engine and drain the oil.  Tip back and let the snowblower rest on the rear bar.  It will stay in that position to help the oil drain out of the engine.  Put in 5W-30 oil or synthetic if you wish.

I would go over all the fasteners on the handles and plastic covers to make sure they are all there and tightened.  If it's loose, it will spin it self off and fall on the snow the next time you go out.

You guys are amazing! Thanks for the very detailed reply. I will be going over the blower this coming weekend and taking pictures of anything suspicious and posting them here. One thing the seller told me was that a new scraper bar was installed last year. The paddles don't look rusty but I couldn't really tell how worn they were? The other unit I looked at (granted only pictures) had rust on the auger and paddles, this one doesn't.

This manual might help if you want to be technical. 

http://www.snowblowerguide.com/manuals/Honda%20HS621.pdf

Back again and I really don't mean to be hijacking this thread so if I should start a separate one please let me know.

I spent some more time with the HS621 that I bought for my folks today. Damn thing wouldn't start, go figure. We had set it up against the garage wall when I dropped it off over there so it was sitting on the scoop(?) and I forgot the fuel on! I don't know if this matters or not, but I remembered and phoned my folks a few days later and asked them to make sure the fuel is off so they turned it off. Anyhow, it ran ok when I bought it off the guy with the exception that the choke sticks in the on position. I think the mechanism that returns it is just shot so you have to go under and manually push the lever on the bottom of the carb. So, long story short, I got it to run but it won't stay running without the choke. When I try to dial down the choke it surges. I'm thinking about rebuilding the carb following this video:

Part 1
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n_eTqL0C3gQ

Part 2
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eLMeYIHuoIQ&feature=related

Anything I should worry about when attempting this? I'll be ordering the carb kit either from Honda locally or somewhere online.
I bothered to change the oil today and it was black as night, so this thing doesn't look like anyone really took care of it. It runs though so I figure it will run well once it's tuned up. I have little to no experience though so any input from you folks is much appreciated.

Thanks
Steve