Outdoor Power Equipment (Lawn Mowers, Snow Blowers, Chain Saws and more) Discussions

   New to the stable is a wounded HS828.  The base, drive, gearbox, augers and controls are fine.  The bucket is in horrible shape.   I think the open part is not just from rust but from stones rubbing.  The edges are pointing out like stones and snow were forced out bending the edges away from the housing.  It seems the thing was used way after the tear started.  The bottom edge of the bucket is in bad shape also i.e. chewed off.  The guy must have used it in the weight forward position on a gravel drive or uneven cement stones. ??  Surprising is the bottom of the sides are in good shape. 

A new bucket lists at $860 so that's out.  I paid half of what the GX240 is worth.  How can the bucket be fixed?   Rivet a circular plate in there?  Cut out 1/2 inch back from the open parts say a long 2-3 inche wide section the length of the worn through part and have a piece welded in?  I can probably come up with an old bucket I could cut to make a filler strip.  What's the way to go about this?  I don't have a welder and don't know anything about welding or riveting.  The metal on either side of the tear is strong and could be welded.   Is there any new miracle product like improved fiberglass that would hold and wear?

Trouts2:
Could you drill some holes in the good metal all the way around both side of the rusty break. Install your "liner",
making sure the impeller fits tight as to hold the liner out to the inner side of the tube. The liner will be some-what round and then weld the liner thru the holes to the good metal of the tube. The impeller vanes then could be ground to fit your liner,thus making a smaller gap between vanes and liner.
Just my nickel(cost of inflation)
T.J.
MERRY CHRIST MAS and HAPPY NEW YEAR!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

It's my first rivet job so not the best but it's functional.  There's enough strength that it could be used as is but I'm not sure how long the rivets would last.  I think they would last quite a while, possibly several seasons. 

The insert is flat and round enough that there is plenty of room for the impeller and enough room left to benefit from using a Clarances type mod.  I'm looking for farm belt. 

It's in there well enough that it can be welded.  Went over to the Honda dealer for parts and mentioned the fix.  He said bring it over and he'd welded it.  Cool, the Hundred Dollar Honda will rise again.  Got it soaking with rust neutralizer after an initial wire brushing so after welding it'll get painted.  Not sure what to do with the outside through, it's pretty nasty with lots of jagged edges.   

Once cranking this will be a candidate to challange an Ariens 1028 that disgraced the 1132.

View before finished.  The bulge was worked flat with a rubber hammer and reveted.

Looking at this picture, it looks like the small piece is riveted on top of the larger piece.



Going by the way the impeller turns, you should have put the smaller piece under the larger piece.

Also, maybe add another piece to the top and bend it into the hole?

I can't help but think you will get snow getting pushed up under the sheets unless he is going to weld the seams shut.

On the outside I would use POR patch.  POR15.COM  good stuff.

This is a bit to late for this blower. I tell everyone  " At the end of the season spray the Auger down with a hose let it dry for a day or so and then spray it down with a good rust preventive oil and that should keep the rust away. I find the powder coated units rust like crazy.

edgenet wrote:

I've had good luck with something called "CorrosionX" (here's a link: http://www.corrosionx.com/marine.html)

I used it with a Honda portable generator that I had for years that would be outside in snow, rain, hot sun, and I would wipe it down once a year with this stuff and when I sold it, the buyer kept remarking that it looked like new. Its safe for painted surfaces, too.

Shryp>>Going by the way the impeller turns, you should have put the smaller piece under the larger piece.

   It’s butted and later got another rivet on the bottom. Four more up higher.  The transition from one to the other is flat so should not lift as is but will probably be welded. 

 

Shryp>>Also, maybe add another piece to the top and bend it into the hole?

   The section above is solid.  The rust is only surface rust.  The liner which I think is a sixteenth will cause the snow to flow a smidge off the wall for friction free ride before getting to the curve of the chute.

 

Shryp>>I can't help but think you will get snow getting pushed up under the sheets unless he is going to weld the seams shut.

     The ends feel like they are held fairly well but I’m not sure what they will be like after lots of vibration.  Hopefully he can weld the butt and ends.

 

Knee_Biter>>On the outside I would use POR patch.  POR15.COM  good stuff.

   I saw a machine done over with POR and it seemed very rugged.  After the welding I’ll see what the fan area has for strength and what rusted sections can be cut or ground away.  The open seems seem to have gotten that way from wear rather than rust.  They thinned, opened and the guy kept using the blower which must have pushed snow out of the sides.  The thin worn walls then turned out so a lot of the open seams were ½ away from their original position.  The original owner gets the prize for abuse.  I’ve never seen anything close to this.

 

Tkrotchko>> Then spray it down with a good rust preventive oil and that should keep the rust away.

    Good advice.  Rust preventor, fogging with oil, anything.  I think most products have similar ingredients.  I’ve talked with a chemist about it and have been using Evapo-Rust because it’s fairly good and a liquid so can be sprayed on quickly for good coverage.  NavelJell is also good and easy to put on with a chip brush.  It was sprayed a few times and yesterday coated with NavelJell.  This morning just about all the rust has been neturalized and turned black.  It will get wire brushed and a few more treatments.

edgenet wrote:
Excellent Points.  I feel that this machine was put in storage all the time by people too lazy to take such precautions.  The paint is gone from use and abrasion, but it could have been repainted each season after cleaning, or coated with something.  I use Amsoil's Heavy Duty Metal Protectant, it forms a wax like coating on the metal when it dries and works perfectly for such applications.  This Honda could have been protected if the owner had taken such precautions, and prevented all the damage.  Rust (oxidation) is a chemical rection, and like most chemical reeactions heat accelerates it.  Winter doesn't do this kind of damage, summer storgae does if the machine is not properly prepared for such storage.   I've seen the Taxpayer bought Honda's at the town storage yard stored in similar fashion.  Private owners tend to take better care of machines they pay so much to own.

Bucket side with airplane glue from Friiy.  The glue seems pretty strong and not brittle so will probably survive vibration.  If it pans out over the winter it will probably get redone over the summer.  It's ready to put together which should get done today. 

 

Nice job.  What a difference.