Outdoor Power Equipment (Lawn Mowers, Snow Blowers, Chain Saws and more) Discussions

Hi

I've got an old snowblower that will not start even though we emtied all old gas from it , checked the spark-plug- ignition! and the new gas entered the carburettor but obviously not the cylinder why it didn't start. The snow blower is old but not much used 3-4 winters and for two years ago there was no problem whatsoever.

It is an ARIENS ST 504 motornumber HS 50670080 and serialnumber 93338.

We got a tip to change the diaphragm but does anyone know anything else we can do. The snow is coming in Sweden and I don't like showelling.

>>Just what is the value of Stable and how does it do it? <<

I've read that even Stable will turn to gum or varnish. 

   Conditions are generally left out of many discussions about fuel problems.  For example, I serviced a friends machine which was stored in a shead in the back corner of his yard.  The shed was under a tree.  The outside of the shed had a lot of green growth on it so damp.  There was some growth on the wood floors inside the shed.  The machine was about 10 years old and had rust all over.  The machine at best only had a couple of seasons left before it would fall apart. 

  The skids were worn off and the bucket sides being chewed off but it started on the first pull.  It was a surprise as I assumed it never had any maintenance.  I asked the guy about that.  He said he put the machine away after each use but did not clean it off.  He said he changed oil once a few years ago but never did anything with the gas.  Gas was left in year round, no shutoff, no draining of the tank or bowl and no stablizers.  First pull starts and never a problem with gas.  Lucky storage conditions. 

   It would be a different story if his shed was at the edge of the yard in the open sun where it could heat up and the temps get quite high.  Just say he left a log of gas in the tank and no fuel shutoff.  The gas in the carb would drain and more come down repeating over and over until gone.  That engine probably would not come close to starting in one season.  For another situation it might take several seasons before enough varnish started plugging things up.

   When I pick up dead machine I always ask about storage and what they did about gas and maintenance.  There's a lot of commen elements in the stories.

   Possibly the boat story was helped along by being at a dock in the sun all day.  Maybe it was covered and baked the fuel.  ?? Who knows.  There are lots of variations with conditions.  From what I've seen it looks like having a fuel shutoff helps out.  With a shutoff only a small amount will evaporate, at lest in the carb.

Carlb, thanks.  I'll keep an eye out for that.  I've tried all the cleaners in the stores around here and have not found any good at all varnishes.

Trouts:

I use Varsol (paint thinner).  It doesn't perform miracles but with a bit of Varsol and a toothbrush, it cleans carb parts quite well and it's not expensive.  I prefer low odour Varsol.  Regular stuff is very strong smelling.  If I'm going to clean a carb, I drop the whole thing into a coffee can and just cover the carb in Varsol to let it sit for a while.  I clean the crud off of the exterior first then take the carb apart.  I go through every jet, gallery and orifice with a very, very thin piece of copper wire, give them a shot of WD-40 then compressed air.  Works perfect every time.  I have yet to even have to install a carb kit.  If you don't tear a gasket, the carb should go right back together and work as good as new.   

Hi Stig,

How are you? All of us want to know how you made out. Did you get it running?

FROM TECUMSEH MANUAL

 Fuel Recommendations

Today’s fuels have a short shelf life and it is recommended you buy no more than a two week supply at a time.

SHORT TERM STORAGE

TecumsehPower recommends using ULTRA-FRESH or Fuel Saver Plus Gasoline Stabilizer plus Fuel System Cleaner as an acceptable method of minimizing formation of fuel gum deposits during storage. This product is available from your Authorized TecumsehPower Servicing Dealer.

Always follow mix ratio found on stabilizer container. Failure to do so may result in equipment damage.

It is not necessary to drain stabilized gas from carburetor.

FUEL TREATMENT

1. Add fuel stabilizer according to manufacturer’s instructions.

2. Run engine at least 10 minutes after adding stabilizer to allow it to reach carburetor.

3. Instead of using a fuel preservative/stabilizer, you can empty the fuel tank as described under "Extended Storage”.

 FROM MY JOHN DEERE RIDING MOWER MANUAL

 Storing Engine:  Use TY6295 John Deere Gasoline Storage Stabilizer or equivalent in fuel tank.  Follow directions on can. Gasoline storage stabilizer must be used when storing riding mower to prevent carburetor varnishing and partial plugging of carburetor jets. Either of these conditions could cause the engine to run lean and result in piston seizure and engine failure.