Outdoor Power Equipment (Lawn Mowers, Snow Blowers, Chain Saws and more) Discussions

I was looking into those Nokian snow tires for my rear wheel drive car a few years ago.  They look like they do a good job with traction on snow.  We don't get a lot of snow at one time, and when the pavement is dry, I'm pretty aggressive on tires so I didn't think those Nokian compounds would nog hold up too well.  Plus I wasn't comfortable with the Q or T speed rating on those tires.  I have Dunlop Wintersport 3D and it's a fairly decent compromise for this area.  Plus, with my wheel size to fit the brake rotors, the highest profile I can get is 40 series in snow tires.

i really would like a truck for my winter driving.  Good ground clearance (5" with my current car) and not worrying about dodging pot holes that sends shockwave through the car. 

8 Pots up front.....40 Profile as well.
It's all in the wheels as well to a degree.

19" clear my breaks. Another set of 20's, I need to run a 5mm spacer for it to clear it by a hair.

FWIW, the Nokians wear very well.....It's one of those tires where you run it once and never look back.

The WR is more a all season tire with snow symbol on it. I prefer true dedicated snows and true dedicated summers...

I used to run dedicated snow tire on a Honda Accord.  Very good traction on snow and ice at cold temperatures.  Warm and dry handling, on the other hand, was unbearable.  Mushy and slow steering response, feels like the tires only have 10 psi and the threads are rolling over at every corner.  Definitely not a compromise I want.

My current car is far from a dedicated snow car (RWD, 300+ HP, 5 inch ground clearance), so dedicated snow tires don't work for me, for the snow fall around here.  Major roads are cleared often and heavily salted.  I rather buy a second skinny tire car like a Corolla with mushy handling and numb steering to begin with.  Suspension so soft that it doesn't even feel a pot hole.  The Corolla is actually good in snow, even deep now, so stable and numb, but that's all it's good for.

My thinking is that you want tracks on an inclined driveway; primarily due to the possibility of ice patches under the snow. I've been in a couple of "hairy" situations after falling on my fairly steep driveway while shoveling. Not only did I fall (yeeeeouch), but I actually slid towards the end of the driveway. Only the snowbank at the end of my driveway, prevented me from sliding out into oncoming traffic. My eyes were as big as saucers on that one. I can't begin to imagine what it would be like to have a running snowblower following me down that slope. I'm going to invest in a pair of spiked overshoes this season.

http://yahoo.shoptoit.ca/shop/product--productId_6880209.html

When I first moved into this place, my car once slid completely sideways on the icy slope, even though I was crawling down the driveway, feathering the brakes all the way. After that experience, I bought bags of sand, which I store in a heated area, otherwise it'll turn into a solid frozen mass.

As for tracked snowblowers being hard to turn, well, I guess that depends on the machine, and technique. On my Honda HS1132TC, I can squeeze the bucket-raising lever on the right-side handle, which raises the bucket a few inches off the ground. Then, I can apply a bit of lift under the handles, which puts all of the machines' weight on the front of the tracks. The middle and back of the tracks are completely off the ground in that instance, allowing me to easily turn the machine. I can literally lift and tilt the machine with one finger.

Hi All.  I am going to buy a snow blower soon and need some advice.  My driveway is between 20% to 30% grade for about 150 feet..   I am concerded that a wheel drive snow blower will not be able to get up a drive that steep with snow on the drive.  At what angle of incline does a trak drive blower need to be considered?  What is the primary puopose of trak drive?. 

Thanks!

Doug D

Thanks everybody for the input. 

Doug D

20-30% incline is the most I have ever heard!