JGtravelor

I've had the John Deer 928E for years. Good machine but you absolutely have to read the directions and do preventative maintenance. I read the complaints and all were preventable except the guy that got a new one that wasn't assembled correctly but then he didn't oil nor grease it when he got it home.  Traction "won't go Forward: Per the Directions when your done with the snow blower at the end of the season you must loosen the tension of the belt so it doesn't stretch out. Then you must remember to tighten the adjustment on the drive rod at the beginning of the Winter. This will save you burning out a $28 dollar belt. The second cause for no or slipping dive is debri from mice in between the  friction disc and drive plate.  Remove the rear maintenance plate and Tilt the snow thrower forward against a solid wall. A ruler wrapped in a rag soaked with alcohol will quickly clean the friction plates. Good tension with clean friction plates will make it drive perfectly if the adjuster goes to the correct gear speeds. The only exception is after many years of use the brass bearing is not really an axil bearing but a brass bushing.  These $55 bushings are just hammered in place. There was no evidence that the factory ever greased them. The drive chain pulls the  axil rod forward and the round hole becomes elliptical and the axil becomes sloppy and can't adjust the traction drive with the axil moving around. Put 2 news ones and greased the shaft before I slid it through. starts right up and worked fantastic again last year.
Always spray white lithium grease or silicone spray on moving parts and silicone spray on moving handles slide cables so the don't rust.  At the beginning of the season Spray TFE (Teflon Dry lubricant on the augur, impellar and inside snow chute so the wet snow doesn't stick. Oil or White lithium grease on the chute turn mechanism and angle adjust.

HP the answers was correct the only difference between the 11HP and 13 HP is the air fuel set up on the carburetor.  I saw a U-tube clip on how he changed a jet to get more fuel.
 However the reason people thought they needed more horse power was because they were having trouble throwing wet snow especially when there is only a few inches.
The answer for this is simply that the wet snow isn't getting packed in the second stage. Simply drive into the snow and pulse the throw handle to let the snow build up and get pressurized, then it will shoot out. With the Teflon dry lubricant so the snow doesn't stick helps a lot.       

If you din't drain the gas out and then run the generator unti lit is dry the gas will clog up the carburator. You may be able to remove the bowl and spray carburator cleaner into it and try to get to the top where the air enters the carburator and spray carburator cleaner into it.

Wait about 1/2 hour for the cleaner to work and then put some 89 octain gas in the tank.

Before you try to start it check the linkage to the carburator. The poroblem I had was only that I needed to spray some WD40 on the linkage. The rods oxidized and didn't allow the choke plates for gas and air to move freely. I knew the carburator was OK since I had drained it. Once the linkage (little rods) moved freely the generator started right up. 

I use the tail gate of my trailor as the ramp. On either side of  the wall of the trailer are two boards spaced apart the thickness of the  boards making up the tailgate.  I slide the tailgate up and out and lay it out the back of the trailer to serve as a ramp.

Another great way to make a ramp is to go the a place that sells industrial shelves and metal mezzanines and get a length of aluminum planking  Cut to desired length.. See attachment.  http://www.mcnichols.com/products/grating/plank/slotted-plank/

All you need to do is drill a hole in the boards that now serve as the top of the ramp in both cornors and drill down into the edge of the trailer.  Simply drop in to 5" long hex bolts to assure the ramp doesn't slide back.

In the rear of my GMC Envoy SUV are two tie down loops that you could run a piece of rope through and into the  hole of two boards that you may use as a ramp. I would make a cross shaped support to assure the boards don't move as if they searate and the blower falls between them and injures you, damages your SUV and damages the snow blower.

  You could use the thin metal braces that are used on metal shelving. Both strips are secured to the boards using carrage bolts and a nut that is snug but not tight as you want to be able to fold up the ramp. The location of the top holes is predetermined by the width of the wheels. The top carraige bolts aren't put in until your going to use the ramp. I good ramp will have an extra narrow board along the outside edge of each  side of the ramp to help prevent driving the blower off the edge. The rope going from the tie downs to the ramp will prevent the ramp from sliding out off the bumper. Two short ropes could be secured to and stay with the ramp so only one end needs to be tied.

Thanks great information. Mine froze up the first winter because someone forgot to grease it when the dealer assembled it. I returned it and they took it apart and greased it. Seven years later when I break a shear pin I see that the auger spins perfectly.

I'm thinking that once it has been done correctly there  is no place for the grease to go so it should be good for life. Would you agree?

Crecent wrench is an adjustable wrench so there wouldn't be any MM nor American STD markings. Since most products are made in Asia it is a good idea to buyaset of metric open end or box wrench. The newest versions at Sears have racheting box wrenches to really speed up the process.