Outdoor Power Equipment (Lawn Mowers, Snow Blowers, Chain Saws and more) Discussions

I know they make ramp kits out there, and less expensive ones that bolt a regular 2x10, etc... The trick in all of them, it to strap the overhanging lip to the tailgate to secure it... With that said, has anyone done transport of any large OPE via just regular wood planks. Is there a method of doing it ~inexpensively~ yet safely ? Or even a plank platform ? I'm looking at 2 stagers and possibly used vs new. Otherwise, I'm inclined to possibly break down a 2 stager down (remove the shoot and handlebars) and the remainder should just fit inside the SUV just fine.

I have fit a few 2 stage machines in the back of my first generation Honda CRV just fine without taking them apart.  It is a bit of a tight fit on top, but they fit for me.

If it is only going to be a 1 time thing, a couple people can pick it up and do it.

Make sure you put the handles in first though, otherwise it won't fit so well.
I had an old 8/24 Ariens and a walk behind leaf blower both in at once fully assembled.

I don't have any ramps, the stuff I picked up was all non-running and we just used the 2 person method.

This is a perfect example why I wanted to add a flatbed to my fleet ;-) I could always just U-Haul it and get their smallest trailer and hook it to the back of my X... Due to the considerably lower height, it might be a better ways to go if I end up needing to haul a SS. I took a look at van rentals but I try to avoid car rentals as much as I can unless I'm on vacay or away on business. Those utility vans get beat up, bad transmissions, etc.

If you simply need to get what you bought home, most places deliver.  Even a lot of used ones you can get delivered.

If you're going to make your own ramps from wood, you should use the proper grade of lumber. Straight-grained, knot-free, and free of defects, Various thicknesses and species will determine what the weight-bearing load-rating is.

http://63.234.227.130/SLTC/etools/scaffolding/planking.html

You can probably use 1/8" to 1/4" thick angle-iron to reinforce the board edges, but you have to ask yourself, is it worth the time and cost, compared to buying commercially made aluminum or steel ramps. I just bought a set of 7' aluminum folding ramps for my utility trailer. They have a 1400 lb load rating, and I got them for $99. "on sale". (reg, $179.)

chefwong wrote:
Wow, from a single stage to a 2 stage snowblower, shed, loading ramps, trailers, and now a flatbed truck.  Wooo hoo !  It all started just a few snowflakes.

Plan for the future and get a F350 Super Duty Duallie from the start so you can haul the future garden tractor around.  :)  They make 4WD with heated cab and stereo too.  Just a thought.

aa335 wrote:

I wonder if chefwong is from New Jersey.....

My SUV is pretty poppy. I use it to tow the track rat. Wish I would use it more for utilitarian use like sheet goods and stuff.... Ha, You guys gave mr David a good old flogging. Just because I looked at the wear edge specs of the paddles put's me in the same boat ;-) It was more of figuring out was it ~worth~ even buying aHS621 instead, but then dumping at least $100+ more into it, assuming it was at least a 7 year+ machine and would need the drive belt and paddles changed.

There are some vague similarities to the self-proclaimed mechanical engineer with vast HVAC theoretical knowledge in need of real world practical experience.  That guy could tell the snow plume mass flow rate from looking at youtube videos.    :)  Amazing talent.  When he gets upsets, everyone is Democrat.

He also got flogging from another forums too.  Well deserved.  Some people over there got whiff of his coming.  He's been a boy scout lately.

Pertaining the HS621, not a good cost analysis if you looking to get one and keep it running.  The rubber parts and other replacement parts are expensive.  But it could end up being a collectible classic.  I'm not going to try to convince you to get a used HS621.  You know if you want one.

Most snowblowers weigh less than 250 pounds or so. Two average men can pick them up and load them into an suv or on a pick up truck fairly easily, no need to spend money on ramps unless you plan on carting your snowblower around often.

giocam wrote:
Spoken like a fit young fella, who's never had his back go out on him at the least opportune time.

My inclination was these originally http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_15771_15771 I have tons of wood lying around and easily make a platform out of 2x12 stock and then put a ply platform ontop. I was thinking.....I could possibly get the 2 stager, keep it outside in some form or fashion and in the offseason, just get it on the ramps and lug it to my storage facility... I would need ramps if I bought the 2 stager used. Most are generally private sellers. If I bought new, I'm sure the local OPE would do the usual free delivery. I have to check with one of my tuning shops. In his old shop, he converted the loading dock as a drive in bay as well. and bought these beefy alum ramps that were rugged and robust.

OT, but how do you get it to keep you formatting ? I am typing in spaces, etc and it just bunches up all the words into 1 single paragraph.

hit "enter' at the end of your final sentence, to start a new paragraph.

chefwong wrote:
If you're using Safari browser on a Mac, iPod Touch, iPhone, :) , it will bunch up all the paragraphs.  You can add <BR><BR> at the end of paragraph to start a new one.  Gets old pretty fast.  Ask me how.

This is just punishment for Apple not playing nice with Adobe Flash.  :) 

Try Firefox browser.  It works better.

A lot of the ones I see for sale on craigslist have notes on them saying delivery for $20 or $25.

The ones that do deliver you can probably talk them into it for their asking price.

I have seen a few ads that even say free deilvery.

I would say if the guy is offering delivery go out and take a look at it.  If you are there with cash in hand you can probably get free delivery vs just telling him to stop by with it.
Would also avoid wasting his time if you don't want his machine.

Ahh...so the browser is doing something even though it's ~web based driven~. I am using Chrome on my Mac. Let me see how it plays with Firefox.

Don't feel bad.

I have tried Firefox, Chrome and IE8 on Windows XP and I can't figure out how to add clickable links or find any way to "go to first unread post".
The "insert link" icon opens up another box to paste the URL into, but that doesn't come back over to the post or something.

Shryp wrote:

Go back and edit your post, select underlined text, click on  "Insert / Edit link" on the toolbar and paste the URL into the field the second time.  PITA but it does work.

Let me know if there better ways to do this. 

I think the new Ariens models come with a F250

Starwarrior

I use the tail gate of my trailor as the ramp. On either side of  the wall of the trailer are two boards spaced apart the thickness of the  boards making up the tailgate.  I slide the tailgate up and out and lay it out the back of the trailer to serve as a ramp.

Another great way to make a ramp is to go the a place that sells industrial shelves and metal mezzanines and get a length of aluminum planking  Cut to desired length.. See attachment.  http://www.mcnichols.com/products/grating/plank/slotted-plank/

All you need to do is drill a hole in the boards that now serve as the top of the ramp in both cornors and drill down into the edge of the trailer.  Simply drop in to 5" long hex bolts to assure the ramp doesn't slide back.

In the rear of my GMC Envoy SUV are two tie down loops that you could run a piece of rope through and into the  hole of two boards that you may use as a ramp. I would make a cross shaped support to assure the boards don't move as if they searate and the blower falls between them and injures you, damages your SUV and damages the snow blower.

  You could use the thin metal braces that are used on metal shelving. Both strips are secured to the boards using carrage bolts and a nut that is snug but not tight as you want to be able to fold up the ramp. The location of the top holes is predetermined by the width of the wheels. The top carraige bolts aren't put in until your going to use the ramp. I good ramp will have an extra narrow board along the outside edge of each  side of the ramp to help prevent driving the blower off the edge. The rope going from the tie downs to the ramp will prevent the ramp from sliding out off the bumper. Two short ropes could be secured to and stay with the ramp so only one end needs to be tied.