Outdoor Power Equipment (Lawn Mowers, Snow Blowers, Chain Saws and more) Discussions

Ariens mounts there motors behind the axle, moving weight of the scoop. It definitely makes it easy to handle; so far, it is the only 30" that doesn't scare my wife. However, not scaring my wife isn't the main criteria.

If the weight is on the nose it resists riding up. If the weight in on the rear wheels it aids traction. Going uphill, additional weight transfers to the wheels. Going downhill, it transfers to the scoop. Although that may or may not be significant.

So which is better? The most bias to the wheels as possible?

As a side bar, several snow blowers have optional weights to go on the scoop. These typically are on the top, a bit forward of the skid shoe. And rather small, 10#. More like an offset for a cab. Is higher overall weight better? Is it better to have 80# on the nose and 170# on the wheels or 150# on the nose and 170# on the wheels?

aa335 wrote:

I haven't actually brought scales to the dealer, and no dealer has the 1128 OXE anyway, however, the 726 and 728 seem light on the nose and Toro specifies an additional weight is mandatory with a cab.

How much weight is enough.?  I refuse to pay $70+ for a piece of steel they call a weight kit.

bus708 wrote:

I can't comment on your finances (although I there is a discussion and inflation, relative prices and gold standard that I just left) however enough weight to keep it down before the tire spins. The the question becomes how much is that.

Let's assume there are 200 lbf on the wheels. That pretty much defines it. The ratio is 200:1, the radius 8". even a little motor could generate that. It would be 130-150 ft-lb lifting the nose. If the skid shoes are 2' in front of the axle, that is 65-75 lb it becomes weightless. So, a total weight of 100lb or so should keep it down and 125lb should give it some bite.

Note that pushing down on the handlebars or a cab on the handlebars also takes weight off the nose.

I think you're talking about drag cars or what it takes to pop a wheelie on a snowblower.

10 to 30 pounds is typical weight to put on the snowblower. 150 lbs weight is probably a wee bit too much, but maybe just right for rototilling. $50 - $70 for a 10 pound weight kit is expensive, I guess you can go to a hardware store, buy some iron bars, drill some holes, paint it for a whole lot less than that.

The weight on the nose depends on the traction at the wheels. You need enough to have a net force holding the nose down. The more traction, the more force holding it down. Which is what wheelie bars do.

Now that I think of it, it may be a practical solution. It wouldn't have to be much.

Tracked blowers don't need it because the tracks perform that function.

Well, sort of. It acts like a wheelie bar because the pivot point moves backwards as the bucket rises. The tracks also has a mechanism to shift the more weight forward or backwards as needed. I don't think 150 pounds on the bucket to stop the bucket from popping up is practical, but you can try it and report how it works.

aa335 wrote:

Wheelie bars don't move the pivot. They act like sticking out an arm to brace yourself has you are falling. As shown, the force raising the nose should be in the 75 pound range at the skid shoes, limited by rear wheel traction. If the nose is heavier, it will stay down.

I was referring to track on snowblower.

But whatever. You are the man. It is what it is.

If two snowblowers had the same weight on the rear wheels, say 185#, but one had 90# on the skid shoes centered 22" from the axle and the other had 50# centered on the skid shoes centered 20" from the axle, which would be preferable? What if the one with 90# up front had 16" tires and the other had 15" tires?

The shiny one that has more horsepower, bigger tires, and comes with a wheelie bar.