Outdoor Power Equipment (Lawn Mowers, Snow Blowers, Chain Saws and more) Discussions

I turned the key on and have no spark from the plug or even the plug wire when turning over the engine

How do I know if it is the coil magneto or the xstar module magneto?

It is a model 38180

I realize this post is old and Denny may no longer be on this board, but I had to ask.  I seem to have the same problem and the shop wanted about $140 for the Toro 81-0340
Xstar Module-Magneto.  Including labor it was pushing $200 and I only paid $75 for this eight years ago.  I just can't see putting that much into this machine so after reading this post I asked them to order the Stens Mega Fire II 440465 ignition module for $18 and I'll install it myself.  So if Denny is still out there or anyone else who has experience with this part, I'd like to know if it is durable in this application.

Which wiring method do I use, the negative ground or positive ground? See the wiring diagram at http://www.rcpw.com/kawasaki-ignition-coils-parts/440465.html.  Click on the 2nd thumbnail pic for the diagram.

Thanks!

(The machine in question is a 1987 Toro CCR2000, model 38180)

Update.  I bought the part mentioned in this thread, the Mega Fire II universal ignition module (http://www.rcpw.com/kawasaki-ignition-coils-parts/440465.html).  I actually got it from my local Toro shop.  I installed it with the negative ground wiring as shown in the installation diagram.  I decided to install the module up near the spark plug access cover instead of under the engine near the auger as the original part was.  Since I'm not sure of the durability of the part in this application, I wanted to make it easy to replace it if it fails.

From what I can tell, the original part (Toro Xstar Module-Magneto 81-0340) was grounded by its metal case with the two screws that held it to the engine block.  I grounded the new module with the included bare-end wire.  I clamped the bare wire (which I stripped to about 1") under the bolt holding the key switch ground wire.  I applied dielectric grease to all connections.  I'll secure the module body with a wire so it stays in place yet is isolated from engine heat and vibration.  It seems like the old module failed when the engine was hot and I figured minimizing vibration couldn't hurt.

I'll post pictures once I get it done if I can do it on this site.

Miller87,
Did the Mega Fire ii work for you? How does the engine run with it?  Curious to know if this $20 part really will replace a $140 Toro module.
Thanks

hosed, after installing the new module I started the engine a few times and from what I could tell, it ran the same as it always had.  I didn't blow any snow yet since I haven't put the shrouds back on yet.  I am going to put it all back together today and then give it a real test.  I'll post again.

In another post by Denny, I think on this site, he mentioned the key switch operated in the opposite way, but I did not find that in my case.  On is still on and off is off.

Ok, I put it all back together and so far it runs as well as ever.  I ran it to clear some fairly dense snow near the street that I shoveled off the high banks to widen the entrance and it worked great and started each time after I shut it off.  A huge frustration of the old module is that the engine would never start when the module was hot.  Pulling the spark plug and drying it with a lighter did seem to get it going, but what a pain that was so I would never shut it off until I was all done.  I wish I knew of this fix several years ago when it started acting up.

I'm no expert at this stuff, but so far I'm really happy with this module and I could buy seven of them for the cost of the Toro part.  Thanks, Denny, where ever you are!

I'll figure out how to post pics and do that next.

This picture shows the original part mounted on the bottom of the engne near the chute.  It's the small brass box in the middle of the pic.

This is the Mega Fire II module.  I used a twist tie to hang it from the wires up by the key switch plug.  After installing the control panel I verified that the wires didn't interfere with the pull cord etc.

The yellow arrow points to the ground wire for the new module clamped under the same bolt used to ground the key switch.  You can see how easy it would be to replace the module if needed.  I considered getting a ring type wire connector and I still might.  That's what the key switch ground wire uses.  I could have installed the new module in the factory location, but would have needed 1/4" longer screws and decided against that for the reasons I mentioned in previous posts.

Here's a link for a short vid of the machine running.

http://s852.photobucket.com/albums/ab90/miller87a/Toro%20CCR2000/?action=view&current=DSCF0168.flv

So that's about it.  I'll let you know if anything goes wrong.  I don't know the durability of this module, but since I mounted it for easy replacement, it will probably never fail, haha.

If anyone can explain how this part of the ignition system works, I'd like to hear it.  Thanks.

One more thing I wanted to mention on this is that when I could not get the engine to start last week I did check for spark by taking the plug out of the engine, putting it in the plug boot, grounding it to the engine and pulling the cord.  I did see a blue spark so I thought that was ok, however, it must not have been strong enough to ignite the fuel/air mixture under compression.  The hot engine starting issue along with the shop's suspicion of the module being the culprit made me quite sure this was the problem.

Miller87: Excellent write up on solving the problem. I have a 1989 CCR2000 with a similar problem.  It would run for 10 minutes and then quit running. Let it cool and it would run for a few minutes more. Sometimes it would sputter and quit (like a fuel problem) other times it would stop dead.  I got the Stens Mega Fire II module and installed it with the negative terminal to ground and the positive to the coil.  The machine ran. One caution, make sure that you have everything hooked up before firing up the engine. On my first test, I forgot to hook the key switch up (Doh!).  This did not present a problem with starting the engine, but I could not stop it!  Instead of grounding the ignition, I pulled the wire off the Spark Plug.  Big mistake, the engine stopped but I believe I blew the mega fire module as the engine now would not start.   I hooked up the old Xstar module and was able to get the engine to start.  I bought another Megafire module and mounted it like miller87 described.  I was going to mount mine where the old Xstar module was mounted but decided that miller87's approach was a lot better. You have access if you need to replace it and also the Xstar module was mounted in a hard to get to spot.  This solution may work on other CCR2000s with  no or weak spark. For $20 shipped, I was willing to take a chance. (The Toro dealer wanted $140 special order, no returns for the Xstar module so even if I have to replace the Megafire every year or two, I'd rather do that considering the age of my unit. )  Later CCR2000 had the ignition module built into the coil so you need to check which version you have before you try this solution.  I also cleaned the carburator (kind of needed it after 20 years). Now my snowthrower is running like a new one. Now I can be sure there will be no more snow this year.

This message was modified Mar 13, 2010 by hosed

I had a friends ccr2000 that would run but always backfire. I asked around and was told that if it stays running the moduale was good, but I had a feeling that was the problem and wasn't spending 140 dollars on a hunch. Thanks to this tread I tried a universal ignition module from oregon (part #33-053) that I keep on hand and it runs great now. I did silicone around the wires on the unit for extra protection being this is a snowblower. Thanks to all in this tread for taking the time to share your findings.

Eighteen dollars vs. $140.00 for a Toro piece???? 

What do you figure?   $130.00 mark up?  Unbelievable!!!