Outdoor Power Equipment (Lawn Mowers, Snow Blowers, Chain Saws and more) Discussions

Hi. My name is Krzysztof and I'm from Poland (Europe). I just got Ariens snow blower from my friend and after 2 hours of snow blowing machine stopped working. It was strange to me that muffler is red after few minutes and engine was not perfectly running but my friend said its normal. It was also weak for me, it went down every time I drove into 8inch of snow (not ice mountain ;) ). Today i checked spark plug, it was dirty but after cleaning it produces strong sparks. I turn round crankshaft couple of times and piston was not moving (i thing it should), i saw only one valve going up and down, i was unable to see other one cause spark plug hole is too small. When I try to start gas is going out from carburetor ( there is no air filter ?!?!?!) Please help me to identify Ariens model cause rear sticker is damaged.

Here's what I was able to read:
-engine Tecumseh
model # H70-130210D
ser 8305C
-front sticker
model# 7-10-m
serial# 26156
-rear sticker
model# 10M ?????
serial# 15192 

photos  Here

Sorry for my poor english and thanks for any help.

Borat - how can you tell from the photo the points are not pitted or weld distorted without seeing their surface?

         Well,  it was running when it blew up,   and lawnmower points only run one spark plug/ one cylinder....  Automotive points run 4, 6 or 8 cylinders (plugs on one set of contacts )-and run all the time..... Not just a hour here and there like yard stuff.    They get a lot less wear,  and when they fail,  they don't run (no room for misfire on a single cylinder)

Friiy

   The points were working, OK.  When they fail they generally fail for good, OK.  What does that have to do with looking at points from the side side, not being able to see their surface and determining they “have a lot of life left in them”?  

 

    Points can operate fine while degrading.  They can run while slowly degrading from pitting, welding and carbon.  That the engine was running is no indicator of the condition of the points or future life.

 

    Changing under the flywheel points on an older Tecumseh engine is not like poping off the exposed distributor cap on a car engine.  On his old H70 the points are under the flywheel and head bolts have to be undone to get the cowling off along with the gas line.  Flywheels usually are stuck on pretty well and can be a pain to get off.  If the points were pitted or worn and working I’d change them along with the condenser to avoid going in there later but I would not know that unless their surface could be seen.

Friiy: Thank you for providing a good common sense reply on my behalf to Mr. Trouts query. Trouts: It would appear that you are trolling for another pi$$ing match. Not interested thank you.

AMEN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Maybe you guys are not familiar with that H70 and how old it is.  It’s typical to open those up and find pitted points even though they are working.  It would be numb to not swap them out while your in there.  Also the condenser.

 

Don’t understand why asking how you can say the points are in ok condition without looking at their surface. Asking how you know that is not a troll post.  I’ve opened up plenty of them and can’t tell and that’s with being there not a picture which does not show their surface.  ??

Serviceman: "Yes I changed the oil and spark plug, lubed everything up, and inspected the belts like you had requested. One quart of oil at $10.00, one spark plug at $8.00, and both belts needed replacement, they're $30.00 each, labour was 1.5 hours for that at $80.00./hr. is $120.00. Considering the age of your machine, I thought it best to check the points and condenser. They looked alright but considering I had the machine in the shop, I thought it would be best to change them. Let's see now..., yeah...., parts came to $19.95 and the labour was,.....ah yeah,,,....2 hrs. labour is $160.00, plus shop fee of $8.00. So, your oil change and tune up comes a grand total of only $385.95 plus taxes......" Some habits are hard to break......

The situation here is the guy has opened up his machine and taken off the stator. It would be remiss to not change the condenser and unless they looked almost new the points also. He’s doing his own work and the cost trivial. Service guys don’t nilly-willy check under the flywheel points. I have never read or heard of that as a check during service, never. What’s with the fantasy? This week I changed out the condenser and points on three old H70’s. All were running before disassembly that was done because of broken rods. It would have been numb not to change them out as they were right there and the cost so inexpensive. All were worn and partly pitted as is the case with everyone I’ve ever opened except one which had almost new points. I check them by looking.

     Yes, the cost is trivial,  the seal is being replaced,  which is have half the problems with Tec.  points.   We are not talking about Briggs points  which is have the plunger that can leak or wear also (twice as much to wear...)....  Points if they are set right and clean when last replaced will last  A LONG Time......  condensers last a LONG Time ....  I have Two Bendix magnetos on my Cessna,  each is running 6 plugs on 1 set of points.   I do more damage to the magenetos and points "checking them" per the manual then I put wear on them...  The condensers on the plane are 20 years old,  the points are about 22 years old,  And there is no need to change them untill there is a problem..  The condensor/ cap is more of a problem than the points...

     Also, the guy is in Poland,   putting together a engine that parts are getting harder to get for.  If it's a concern, replace ALL points with electronic ignition...

I don't paint engines,  I don't do valve jobs on engines that don't need it,   I don't put rings in engines "just because it's open".   Everything has a service life and everything is repairable for a cost...

100% no failure rate is overbuilt and too expensive,  I have a feeling that the points in the engine will last as long as the seal he is replaceing on the crank...

My rant,

Friiy

1.Refocusing the point:

The issue was asking how someone could tell points were or were not required by looking at a photo of the edge of a set of points.

2.Addressing the morph into maintenance philosophy:

Friiy – your point has been points last a long time so don’t replace them. Wait for failure. Fine if we’re talking about an engine being worked on for a carb or replacing a pull rope. But if the engine is being opened for some reason and the points exposed it would be irresponsible to not check the points by looking. What might be missed here is the engine the poster is working on is about 42 years old.

Just about all of these old timers I open have points that are pitted, welding or wear. If I’m in there for some other reason and the points show wear I replace them. The engines I do this type of work on are usually 30 to 45 years old, all Tecumseh with a Briggs here and there. For these older engines with a broken rods I replace the rings as a given and lap the valves. Condensers on all of them get replaced along with the points unless just about new. I don’t do general repair work for people. The work is on engines I own and will use later on snowblower bodies. It’s very typical of the older better machines for the bodies to outlast their engines. There’s a lot of great Ariens bodies with tired engines and lots of them with broken rods. If the bores meet spec they get “rebuilt”. I could save a bunch of time and money to just replace the broken part, put the thing together and sell it. The buyer would never notice anything. He’d have a running working snowblower that worked fine. What I try to do is get a machine that will last a minimum of 5 years, body and engine. When doing a fix on an engine I replace anything that might fail in the future. The same with the body.

>>For you, Friiy, “If it's a concern, replace ALL points with electronic ignition...”

Fine, that’s your take. Points are very available and can last 20 years so for me regular points are fine.

 >>I don't paint engines, I don't do valve jobs on engines that don't need it, I don't put rings in engines "just because it's open".

Some people do preventative maintenance depending on the situation. It seems you’d wait until something is broken. If that works for you fine.

 >>I have a feeling that the points in the engine will last as long as the seal he is replaceing on the crank...

The points in there could be original and 42 years old. I would not be so confident they would last another 20 but I’d check by looking.