Outdoor Power Equipment (Lawn Mowers, Snow Blowers, Chain Saws and more) Discussions

Hi. My name is Krzysztof and I'm from Poland (Europe). I just got Ariens snow blower from my friend and after 2 hours of snow blowing machine stopped working. It was strange to me that muffler is red after few minutes and engine was not perfectly running but my friend said its normal. It was also weak for me, it went down every time I drove into 8inch of snow (not ice mountain ;) ). Today i checked spark plug, it was dirty but after cleaning it produces strong sparks. I turn round crankshaft couple of times and piston was not moving (i thing it should), i saw only one valve going up and down, i was unable to see other one cause spark plug hole is too small. When I try to start gas is going out from carburetor ( there is no air filter ?!?!?!) Please help me to identify Ariens model cause rear sticker is damaged.

Here's what I was able to read:
-engine Tecumseh
model # H70-130210D
ser 8305C
-front sticker
model# 7-10-m
serial# 26156
-rear sticker
model# 10M ?????
serial# 15192 

photos  Here

Sorry for my poor english and thanks for any help.

can't help with the model and other info but in order to run you need spark,compression,and fuel.if your somewhat mechanically inclined you can check to see you have all three.also the carb probably didn't have an air cleaner when new.my 8 hp ariens did not come with one.the muffler turning red is probably caused by a lean high speed jet condition. there are three settings on the carb that are external adjustments,the idle speed ,the idle mixture,and the high speed mixture.the initial setting of idle mixture is one turn out from litely bottomed(all the way in).the initial setting for the high speed jet is 1 1/2 turns out from litely bottomed. the idle rpm screw is on top facing to the handlebars,the idle mixture is on the left side vertical on the top side of the carb,and the high speed mixture is the screw on the bottom (middle)of the float bowl.the nut that holds the high speed screw is the high speed jet and there are small orafices in it that have to be perfectly clean.you can do this by removing the jet (which will losen and drop the fuel bowl)and spraying with carb cleaner and using a small copper or brass wire to rout out the passages to make sure theyre clean. someone else here can probably tell you the make, model,hp etc,or you can contact ariens www.ariens.com and supply them your snowthrowers info.good luck and welcome aboard our forum.

Probably I have Ariens 10M-L60D but I'm not sure.

From thing You wrote me I have gas and spark for sure but compression is out I believe. When I torn crankshaft and put finger on plug hole I havent felt any pressure.
I will check that again and probably I will take out cylinder head to see what is wrong. I'm afraid connecting rod is broken.

ps. what kind of gas should I use ? We got here regular 95, premium 98 and power 100+. 

Yep, definately a 1963 10M-L60D.
that year and model has a few distinct features that were unique to it..
easy to identify! :)

you can read more about it here:

http://gold.mylargescale.com/scottychaos/Ariens/Page5.html

I can also tell your machine does not have the original engine..
you have a newer replacement engine..
the engine serial number, 8305, indentifies it as a 1968 engine..

scot

This message was modified Jan 31, 2010 by sscotsman

I identified my model from this great website bur I was not sure :) Its really magnificent that machine from 60s is doing so well - things were better these days. I got German machine in my bakery from 1956 and its only one that never broken and we are using it every day. Now I have to check everything and probably I will need new piston and rod.

Hi again folks.

As I thought there was no compression. But piston is running ok but there is very little loose on piston rings . Problem is valve on carb side, its always up. I can push him down, turn around but when it goes up stays that way. Valve on muffler side is going up and down, and I cant turn him around like other one. I took out cylinder head and drain out oil (it was really black). I was unable to take out cylinder cover cause screws are not metric and have to get right key.

Some photos form todays work:

Looks to me like you have a bad/broken valve spring or retainer. There's a lobe that pushes it up and the spring should pull it back down. Not a good thing but a lot easier & cheaper to take care of than a connecting rod so it could have been a lot worse. I can't figure out if a weak or bad intake valve spring could have caused you to run lean, I can see how it could cause a rich condition but not lean ... anyone care to guess? Your dirty Polish workbench looks just like my dirty American workbench :D

           If the engine was running before it quit..  You may just have a dirty intake valve stem..  If the engine has old or bad gas inside.  The valve collects deposits on the stem when running and starts to stick or rub...  if You spray cleaning solvent or carburator cleaner on the valve stem does it loosen up and move freely when you turn the engine over?

Can you Email me a Video of how the valve is acting when you turn over the engine?

Friiy@aol.com

Good Luck,

Friiy..  

friiy wrote:

Sorry I get Your post too late :( Gas can't be weak, It's from Shell and it's fresh 100+ octan V-Power.

Cover is out now.  Valve spring is broken, also governor wheel is completly broken. I will put some photos later, have to work now ;)
I promise to clean workbench after work ! :))

I have downloaded Tecumseh Repair Manual for my engine - it's great !

Have good day You all and Thank You for helping me. This is first time I'm repairing gas engine.

Ok I got almost everything done. Problem was broken valve cap.

Plase someone tell me:
- carb and those screws looking good ?
- I cleaned cylinder before photo, is it good or should I change piston rings ?
- should I poler valve holes ?
- can this valve stay ?

 

 My friend,  I would put it back together with the only the replacement parts for what is broke...   I think the valve spring keeper and parts are available separate.  The engine may have plenty of power in its current state,  even a engine that burns oil will run for years if taken care of...

IF you decide to change the valve,  you will have to resurface the face, cut the seat of the valve and set the clearance,   this will take tools you may not have access to do.. 

The needle valve screws look good, but you need to change the o-ring on the one with the seal...

Good luck,

Friiy