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Abby’s Guide > Outdoor Power Equipment (Lawn Mowers, Snow Blowers, Chain Saws and more) > Discussions > Getting Equipment Ready For Spring

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Termy


Location: Washington
Joined: Oct 24, 2004
Points: 960

Getting Equipment Ready For Spring
Original Message   Jan 23, 2005 7:34 pm
This information was originaly written by Cheese at www.doityourself.com

Getting equipment ready for spring

Well, I walked through a customer's backyard this afternoon and looked at my boots. They were greenish yellow...covered with pollen. I guess that means I'm a week or two late in this post for my area, but it's probably right on time for the rest of the country.

When you drag that mower out of the garage, here's a help list of things to check and do to get it ready for spring:

Install the battery if you removed it for long-term storage. Make sure it is charged, the terminals are tight and free of corrosion.

If you didn't drain the fuel, look in the tank (if it's the kind that you can see into). If there are odd looking bubbles that seem to be rolling around on the bottom when you bump the tank, that's water. Drain the tank and dry it out. Remove the fuel lines and filter. Blow out the lines and replace the filter. Then pull the carburetor bowl off and drain the water out of it. Clean any varnish/gum you find when you're in there. Refill with fresh gas. If you don't see water in the bottom, but there is gas in it, it may be stale. I can tell when gas is stale by the smell of it, but if you can't, you can drain it and refill to be safe, or try it when it comes time to start the engine and see if it will run on it or not. If you added fuel stabilizer before storage, you probably are fine, but still check for water.

Check the air filter. Clean it or replace it. Be sure to oil the foam pre-cleaner if equipped. (take it off the filter element, soak it with clean oil, and wring it out, then re-install it). Make sure the rubber surface on the filter is sealing against the filter housing, and that the rubber is clean (so that is will seal).

Replace the spark plug, or check it at least, unless it was changed at the end of the last season. Most domestic flat-head engines take Champion RJ19LM, and most domestic overhead valve engines take Champion RC12YC plugs. Check the owners manual to be sure.

Check for debris under the engine fan shroud. It is a favorite place for mice to nest. If you see anything under there that shouldn't be, remove the shroud and clean it out. Also look at the covers/guards that cover the cylinder. You may need to remove them to see under them. The cooling fins on the cylinders under these covers should be clean. Many times they cake up with dust and grass, especially in dusty areas, and cause engine overheating and premature engine failure. It's cheap insurance to check them once in a while and clean them out. Make sure you re-istall the covers, as they are imperative to providing the cylinder with proper airflow from the cooling fan.

Check the oil. If you changed it before winter storage (reccomended), then if it is full, you're ok. If not, look for the leak and repair. If it was not changed, and is low, fill it, don't change it yet. Crank the engine up and let it run enough to get to operating temperature. If there is settlement in the bottom of the engine from sitting with old dirty oil in it, this will stir it up into the old oil. Then switch it off and drain it/change it. This will get a large amount of the settlement out of the engine. Change the oil filter if equipped.

Check the belts, blades, pulleys, and linkages for wear, tear, looseness, or siezure. Make necessary replacements/repairs. Look over the entire machine for anything wrong (bent brackets, chewed wires, etc...).

Check tire inflation and condition.

Grease all fittings and lubricate all moving parts.
This message was modified Jan 23, 2005 by Termy



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