Outdoor Power Equipment (Lawn Mowers, Snow Blowers, Chain Saws and more) Discussions

I did a search and found a few references to this machine but no answers.  Any one have one of these?  15.5 snow max engine, heated hand grips, 30" wide.  I can't find a listing for auger diameter or impeller diameter.  I called John Deere and the guy that was suppose to be the snow thrower expert didn't know either. 

What is the Easy Steer drive system?  The literature says: 

Easy SteerŪ drive system giving continuous power to both wheels and auto speed adjustment

Is it similar to the Ariens auto differential? 

I've heard that the units are built by B&S which translates to Simplicity.  They do have cast iron gear cases like the Simplicity.  The chute control is different than the simplicity and so is the turning method so they are not exactly the same.  I'm trying to compare the Simplicity L1530E to the JD 1130SE.  Any help would be appreciated.

Rick

Catt and I have been discussing adding weight to the front of our 1130's as we both added cabs.

I thought others might be interested to hear what we came up with and would like to hear other suggestions/comments.

SWoods	Adding weights? Today 11:34 am Delete Have you thought about adding some weight to the front of the 1130 to compensate for the cab?  Most of the time it digs down to pavement, but some places (car's tire tracks, etc) it will ride up unless I pull up on the handle bars.  20#s up front couldn't hurt, but I wonder what would work but still look good.  Maybe hang a 10# round weight painted green (like for a weight lifing bar) on each side of the auger housing would do the trick.  It is better balanced with the cab, but I think it loses some of it's effectiveness from the weight loss up front. By the way, mine is working great now too after sealing everything up.  I just haven't had deep enough snow to use the drift cutters!  You're up in MN aren't you?
Catt Joined: Oct 15, 2009 Points: 88	Re: Adding weights? Today 12:20 pm Delete Reply Quote I've thought about adding some weight too.  My other snowblower has a cab too and it needs a lot more weight and is significantly more of a problem than the Deere.  I've seen people add lifting weights to the front of the machine, but I think it looks terrible.  The link below is an Ariens weight for this very purpose.  I've also thought about adding weight by changing the drift cutters to much thicker steel since these are way out front.  Maybe 3/8" thick would work.  I'd paint these black just like the existing cutters. http://www.snowblowersdirect.com/Ariens-724065/p806.html I live in Minnesota around 10 miles from the Mall of America.
Catt Joined: Oct 15, 2009 Points: 88	Weight Today 3:08 pm Delete Reply Quote Swoods, I think we have a couple options for additional weight.  One is to add a weight similar to the Ariens.  The 1130 already has a bolt hole for the auger support.  We could use that same hole and add a steel weight at that location.  The other option is steel plates which replace the existing drift cutters.  The weight of the cab is 10-15 lbs. but keep in mind some of that weight is closer to the wheels than the weight we would be adding.  Here are some calculations for these, but dimensions can be changed if necessary. Ariens Steel Plate or similar mounted with auger support bolt: Length = 22.5" Width = 4" Thickness = 3/8" Weight = 9.56 Lbs. Drift cutter weights (This weight would be further forward): Length = 22" Width = 2.25" Thickness = .375" Weight (two total) = 10.5 Lbs.

SWoods              

Re: Adding weights? Today 3:54 pm

Delete

I imagine I can make something just like that steel plate.  It would look better mounted to the underside of the auger housing where it can't be seen as long as it doesn't interfere with the auger and snow movement.  I would hate to spend $70 on a piece of steel :) 

The heavier drift cutters is a good idea.  Unfortunetly, I leave mine off to make it a bit easier to move around the garage since the most I have snow blowed is 8" deep anyways.  But hey, I could just aim them down out of the way (straight down along the edge of the auger housing).  That is a dang good idea you had.  I noticed on the new 1130's they are held on with wing nuts, isn't our's with a single bolt?   I have seen one snow blower that had very large wing nuts holding them on.  The kind you can grab with your whole hand.  That would be ideal if we were going to put on heavier driftcutters on and wanted the ease of movement without needing a tool.  Just like these on Lawn-Boys http://cgi.ebay.com/LAWNBOY-New-Handle-Wing-Knob-Nut-607544-LAWN-BOY-Mower_W0QQitemZ400095363298QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item5d278ac0e2

 

I think the first thing is to actually determine the exact weight you want.  Try hanging a weight from each drift cutter bolt if possible.  Drift cutter size can be calculated once the weight is determined .

Darn!  It hasn't snowed in around 2 weeks.  Maybe I should just move to Alaska during the wintertime. 

Hello, I had been following this forum with regards to buying the 1130 (of course I found the forum AFTER I bought it) :) Anyhow, this thing is amazing...got 8" of (extremely) heavy wet snow yesterday and I had no problems...save the 1 shear pin. Oh and my drive was slipping a bit...both reverse gears and the first couple of gears. I tried 6th gear and it went no problem, then back to the lower gears, and had no further problems. What I did... Wife needed to get out, so first thing in the morning I snow blew (past tense)? No problems except the one shear pin. I knew the snow was going to continue, so I had done the bare minimum, and waited until early afternoon to finish. Second attempt was when I had some drive problems. This is the 2009 model, with the heated handgrips and such...and I had read on these forums (or I thought I had), the water leakage was fixed on the new models? This is the second time I have used it, bought it a month ago new from Lowe's. Any suggestions? Mentioned it to the JD dealer where I got replacement shear pins yesterday, and he knew nothing about it, and suggested I go through Lowe's warranty. Issue is, I don't have a vehicle for carting around the blower. Thanks! Josh

The JD stores are the ones who service the units.  Lowes doesn't service them so I don't think it would do much good to bring it back there.  They would just end up sending it to the JD dealer anyways.

Here is what you need to tell the JD dealer:

I finally installed my hour meter.  I mounted it under the control panel out of sight and where it's a little more protected from the elements.

I made a steel bracket with opening for the meter and two mounting holes. The steel is .055" thick.



Painted with meter mounted. This meter has a compression fitting on the back to hold it in place.



Mounted under the control panel with two existing holes that were already on the 1130.



Another view.  It looks a little tilted in the picture, but it's just an optical illusion.

Another great modification, Catt.  By the way, I got another Lawn-Boy last weekend.  It is a 1989 model with the F engine.  Started up on the first pull after a shot of starting fluid even though it hadn't ran in around 12 years.  I keep a wanted ad on Craigslist looking for free Lawn-boys. 

Wow another Lawn Boy!  I might try that too. 

Just change 5 hour break in oil to Mobile one synthetic. I think the BS engine is running smother and quieter now with the new oil! Starts on the first or second pull after hitting the primer a couple of time. I only have to crank the choke one click and the engine fires up.

This is my first post here, hello to all!

I'm a mechanic at a JD dealership and I purchased a 1130se this year.  I have good luck with my machine, but like many of you, it would occationally slip in the lower gears (F or R). 

From what I have seen at my location in central ND, Deere doesn't have anything for solutions.

After reading the info posted here I sealed up the gearcase underneath the engine.  I used JD "combine sealant" (yes, that's what it's called).  I used it since it matches the green paint and it costs less than $10.  Once we finally got some snow I am happy to report that the slippage problem is gone.

Locally we have come up with another solution for the slippage problem.........there are two springs that actually press the rubber drive wheel into the steel wheel.  The are located at the very bottom of transmission housing.  Remove those two springs and take them to your local hardware store and match them up with replacement springs that have a larger wire diameter (they will be stiffer and will press the wheels together tighter), but are still the same length.  To get the springs installed you may have to remove the engagement cable (I did) and re-adjust the length of the cable once you get the new springs on.  The handle will be slightly stiffer, but not horrible.  Total cost for this mod is less than $5.

Hope this helps!