Outdoor Power Equipment (Lawn Mowers, Snow Blowers, Chain Saws and more) Discussions

I've been frustrated by my poor success at removing frozen bearings and rusted together parts. The local Harbor Freight store has these 6 Ton A-Frame bench shop presses that sell for about $70. Is 6 tons enough force for most tasks? Right now I am trying to remove an auger impeller from a snowblower and it is rusted on. I've tried soaking it in BP blaster for weeks, heating it up with a propane torch, and pounding away. Someone told be to try a "press" so I found this device, but to be honest I have no familiarity with such a tool:
"Super strong A-frame design is one of the best on the market. Accurate to within thousandths of an inch. The bed adjusts in 3-1/2'' increments."
Working distance: 2'' to 4''
Width between channels: 10-1/2''
Overall dimensions: 30" H
Weight: 55 lbs.
ITEM 1666-4VGA

Here's a photo of my current rusty impeller project.  The augers on this honda HS724 snowblower are also rusted on. It was suggested to me that a hydrolic press might be the answer to unsticking things.

I cannot vouch for that particular model but hydraulic presses will either break the bond between the mating parts or bend them if the bond will not break. I've seen bigger presses in action at an engine building shop where they are used to disassemble/assemble rebuilt two stroke crank shafts and other work. If you're planning on buying a press, you must ensure that the overall compression length of the press is big enough for the work you want to do. If you plan on working on shafts 20" in length, the press must have that much travel in the compression stroke. You can always add pieces of wood to take up slack but you cannot make the press bigger if the piece is too long.

I have a 20 ton H-frame shop press and find it very valuable for removing frozen items.  The problem with using a hammer is that you generally mushroom the shaft ends or mash up something else.  I've never had a problem using a press and destroying shaft ends.  The one problem I see that you should be aware of is getting that assembly under the press.  You need to get it directly under the hydraulic jack and many of the press tables are welded together which won't work as I see it.   Some press tables are bolted together and might work, but you would need to make sure it still fits.  I've considered modifying my press table for this very reason, but it needs to be very strong.
As far as 6 tons, I can only say that I've had a couple of things that have taken nearly every ounce of my 20 tons.  I've also removed things with very little effort, but there really isn't anyway to know for sure.  Another nice thing about a 20 or 40 ton shop press is the ability to add a press brake at a later date.  I'm using a press brake that was built in Montana and sold on ebay.  It's really nice for bending thick metal.  It's only sold periodically as the company in Montana builds a few at a time.   Northern also sells a press brake that will fit on a shop press.

Thanks for the input on the press. I'll take a closer look at the dimensions and see if they match my needs.

In the mean time I'll give that BP Blaster a little more time.   I agree with the problem created by hammering.

I do think its easy to mushroom the end. But I have to say, I did not think about it until now.

      I think these press are great.    They can save you a load of time and money in the long run.   Just add up one pully $+ one shaft $ + one case $....

I see one problem with your project,   Will all the parts sit in the press flat and level when you use that press?   If the fins are on the resting on the press you could damage the auger....

Or are you going to have to rig or modify the unit so it will fit?

      I find that a arbor press will do wonders with projects in the garage,   I am not putting bearings into half ton truck rear-ends. I am taking bearings off starters , generators and pullys off shafts.  

Good Luck,

Friiy

If you go the shop press path you will also need shop press plates.  Many shop presses come with these, but sometimes you need to fashion your own.  You put one on each side of the shaft as close to the shaft as possible.  These will hold the fins away from the press table and reduce the chance of bending the impeller.

The other inexpensive option is this small HF press. It does mention some "plates."

FREE PAIR OF ARBOR PRESS PLATES
Remove and install bearings, gears, U-joints, bushings, ball joints and pulleys. Specially hardened steel press has removable tempered steel cap, replaceable with different tool ends.

• Open-sided heavy duty construction allows work on the longest work pieces
• Raise and lower table for the best working distance
• Spring return ram speeds up your work

Capacity: 6 ton; Overall height: 36-1/4''; Working distance: 3-1/8'' to 9"; Width between channels: 13-3/8"; Base dimensions: 16-1/2'' x 19-3/4''
Weight: 59-1/4 lbs.

ITEM 4711-9VGA

ITEM 4711-9VGA

• Open-sided heavy duty construction allows work on the longest work pieces
• Raise and lower table for the best working distance
• Spring return ram speeds up your work

Capacity: 6 ton; Overall height: 36-1/4''; Working distance: 3-1/8'' to 9"; Width between channels: 13-3/8"; Base dimensions: 16-1/2'' x 19-3/4''
Weight: 59-1/4 lbs.

ITEM 4711-9VGA

ITEM 4711-9VGA

I see plates on the press table in your picture.  The only thing I would be worried about is the size of the press and if I could get the assembly in between the press table and under the hydraulic jack.  That would probably require a few measurements. 

Also make sure you can get the press table low enough under the jack.  Some of these presses are pretty short.

I’m not familiar with these things and have a few questions about setup for working impellers, rakes and bearings?

 

Is rod under the jack removable and have various sizes?

How would to setup for an impeller or rake?

 

Would you set the impeller end on the base and mate the top of its shaft to the rod sticking down from the jack? 

 

How would you setup for a frozen rake?

 

It seems like these things would require an assortment of pillow blocks, collets and other things to help setup getting the force in the right place.  What would be needed for impellers, rakes and bearings only?  The base cost seems ok even for the 20 but what else has me puzzled.  Will a press crack a nasty impeller without heat?

 

I’ve been helping a guy in email do his broken auger gearbox.  He was doing well until the impeller and got stuck.  He brought it to an auto place which took two hours to do with heat then the press for $116.