Outdoor Power Equipment (Lawn Mowers, Snow Blowers, Chain Saws and more) Discussions

Considering getting an older Ariens blower, but am wondering about the different types of controls that are out there. I'm assuming that the older machines have some of the controls mounted beside the motor like this one,


and the newer machines have the more conventional on the handlebars like this one,


What's the difference for ease of use, are there preferences out there, is one better than the other?
I've not studied either one up close, so, dumb question, can the impeller/auger housings be interchanged between these two types?

Thanks

The impeller/ auger is not a direct interchange but it can be made to work.The older style is much stronger and uses less power. I think using the old style gear box with newer 824 and newer engine 10-12hp would make a great machine. If I remember correctly the old style cast iron gear box is the same ratio and the size is the same only change is mounting hole for impeller- if you use the old gear box make sure you take it apart and replace seals on both sides.

The first one is a 10,000 series and uses knuckles to connect the tractor drive section to the auger drive section.  The low handle by the bucket barrel causes the knuckles to mate.  The lever by the dash plate tensions the belt to drive the tractor and augers.

 

The second picture is of a 924xxx series machine that does not use knuckles.  It’s like more modern machines with the belt and drive pulley.  The buckets are not interchangeable.

 

The first machine is an old buzzard but easy to use. Once the levers are flipped and you are underway with one hand is free to turn the crank.  On newer machine both hands are holding levers unless you have auger locking with the drive clutch.

 

On the first machine the operation is sort of tricky.  You put the drive selector in neutral then flip the auger lever then the belt tensioner lever.  The augers will then be turning and no drive because you are in neutral.  You press the drive clutch to shift and when you release the clutch it then drives.  To stop the machine you pull in the lever.  That’s not the best because if you fall your machine keeps driving on with the augers going.

 

Also, it’s possible to start the machine with the belt lever thrown and in gear.  When the machine starts and the drive selector not in neutral the machine takes off.

 

The 924xxx machine is very nice to use.  Ariens changed the controls so like modern machines.  The auger clutch is up on the small handlebar dash and tensions the belt from up there.  The auger engagement is a stand up lever with a lock button on top so not a handlebar grip type.  You swing the lever forward and press the top button to lock it leaving your hand free for chute control.  It also has a high dashmounted easy to use chute control.  It is a very nice machine.

 

You mentioned various lever arrangements.  Earlier 10,000 models had the auger knuckle lever at the side like yours.  They also had the belt tensioner by the barrel on the side next to the auger lever.  Those were more dangerous as people would lean over the handlebars to flip the belt tensioner lever.  If you did that while the gear selector was in a gear it would then move.  If reverse the machine would move into you when you were leaning over.  Not the best arrangement.  After a few years Ariens moved the lever to be half way up the handlebars like in the first picture.  There are other arrangements of levers on older versions.

 

Both machines are good candidates for a motor.  If you opt for an OHV then the first machine will be tougher.  An OHV head will bump into the chute crank so it has to be moved.  It’s not a big deal. 

 

The 924xxx machine came in several models with various chute crank arrangements.  The model you have is a good one for refitting with an OHV because of the wide position of the chute crank.  Both machine will take an older L-head without modification. 

 

Both tractor have studs for older type engines.  Those engines has thin base plates.  Newer engines have thicker base plates so to mount a newer engine you have to cut off the welded bolts and drill them out.  When you mount your engine you run bolts up through the inside of the tractor.  For either machine that’s fairly easy but the 10,000 series generally has the mount holes close to the frame.  You have to grind off part of the flange bolt to allow it clearance to get in through the original stud location which had to be drilled.  Some 10,000 model fit directly but I think yours will have to be ground.  On the 924xxx the bolts fit right in with the help of 12 inch plyers. 

 

   Both of those bodies were sold with larger engines so can take 6 to 10 I think and probably up to a 13 but you would have to check tractor section factory model number to see what hp’s it’s good for.  Those models came with other holes pre-drilled for different motors. 

 

   Either machine will make a great snowblower.  Steel gearbox buckets are easy to find for the 10,000 machine but harder to find for the 924xxx, at least around eastern, MA.  It’s not a big deal as the aluminum gearbox common on 924’s was pretty good.  Both series came in various model with and without differential which is a nice feature.

 

On the first storm this year which was fairly wet and heavy I used a 10,000 like your first picture fitted with a LiFan 6.5hp OHV which worked great and out performed a 7hp and 8hp with their original motors with fairly decent compression. 

Thanks to both of you for the replies and Trouts2 for the operating explanations. Based on your details I think I will stick with the newer style machine because I may get into trouble with the older one.
At the moment I don't have any Ariens machines, these are two that are currently selling locally. I was too slow on the newer style machine & he sold the bucket before I contacted him, just the tractor section is for sale now.
I currently have an older MTD 5-24 re-powered with an HM80 that I am tweaking to throw farther. I also  picked up an older TTI 10-28 just to rebuild the engine for the 24".  Based on my space I need a smaller bucket but due to threes & hedges I need to throw farther. Based on some thoughts Trouts2 put down about auger impeller performance (in this discussion about Does impeller size matter http://www.abbysguide.com/ope/discussions/42982-0-1.html) I'm thinking that I may go to an older Ariens (for the larger auger) with the rebuilt HM100 and a slightly higher impeller speed to get the distance I need (along with a slightly narrower pass each time).
Does that make any sense?

Cheers

What is TTI?  I never heard of that.

What is the impeller speed of the 5hp MTD?  It might be a better base impeller speed to start from than an older Ariens.  MTD probably had 10hp models avaiable using the same 5hp frame with small tires but it would be worth checking some drawings and the MTD site or partstree.com.

Below is an ST824 924050 it is more modern that the 10,000 series and the bulk of prior 924's.  BTW this is one I just rebuilt with 1 coat of undercoat and two top coats, rebuilt auger gearbox, and new flange and ball bearings in the bucket and tractor  

The 924's has mostly 1080 impeller RMP and 108 auger RPM.  Not the best for distance.  The factory rating for these models was 3-30 feet and that covered up through 11hp.  I put a new 11hp OHV on ths same model last year.  It threw well and could do 30-35 feet in good conditions of eastern Mass.  Note the forward tilt of the chute back angle.  The second picture shows the low chute crank which an OHV head can go over.  These bodies took at least 11hps from the factory.  Not sure about 13hp.

The 924 series and 10,000 splatter their output so not the best if you want to reliably throw 25-30 feet and not get anything below that say in an area you just cleared.  For distance I'd start with a better base and tweak that for RPM and put on a better chute.  I'm currently fixing up an older 10hp Snapper fitted with newer tall slow back angle John Deere chute but I don't expect a big improvement even with that great chute. 

You could probably tell your auger RPM by putting a piece of tape on an auger and counting rotations for 10 seconds like a nurse does your heart beat.  I've been thinking about this for some time so will give it a shot tomorrow. 

A good base to start from would be a 624 Yamaha body.  They come up used all the time.   It might throw well enough to meet your requirements as is.    I tossed in the same conditions with a Yamaha 624 and an Ariens 1028 with a newly rebuit engine with 5% leakdown compression.  The Airens just barely beat the 624. 

What do you think your getting for distance with the 8hp?  Where are you, in dry or heavy snow country?

   Got out and did RPM auger check by sticking some tap on the auger blade and counting the revs for a number of seconds.   For an old Ariens 910962 the count was 100 RPM on the auger so the impeller is probably 1000 RPM.  The engine RPM should be on the money but 100 seems low.   I'll have to do it again and see if it comes out the same.   It's a bit confusing to watch the tape on the auger.  They go by pretty quickly.  A better thing would be to make a mark on the rake shaft as it easier to watch.