Outdoor Power Equipment (Lawn Mowers, Snow Blowers, Chain Saws and more) Discussions

A dealer has an Ariens ST1332DLE snowblower and is listing the model number as 926028. Says it has a 13hp Briggs engine, 32 inch wide and 120V electric start. I can not find anything listing this model number. They say it is a 2008 model - brand new. Anyone have any information on this model.

Thanks Snowman that helped, found the manual with descriptions, it does have the 13hp Briggs. I am trying to decide between a new 921018 Deluxe 30 Platinum and this new 2008 st1332dle. I know the 30 Platinum has an aluminum gear box - trying to figure out how these hold up. My problem is that the State uses salt and when they plow in the end of my driveway that is often turned to heavy snow, some ice and sometimes slushy. Currently have a ST1032 purchased in 1995 - and this pro model has always been able to handle this. The Tecumseh HMSK100 has been surging and diagnosed as low compression, new carb did not help. So I need a new one - can not find a new engine.

What is difference between Auto Differential on the ST1332 and Automatic Traction Control on the Deluxe 30 - this along with the gear boxes seems to be the big differences.

      Have you tried to adjust the Jet size in the Tec. engine ?    Low compression will not effect the surging of the engine....  Does the engine surge at low speed (no load) or loaded down (throwing snow full speed)?

     I would try to "richen up the mixure",  on some carbs there is adjustment screws, on some there are a fixed jet (with a nuber stamped on it)...  The new Replacement carb may have come with a jet that too lean for the carb on the application of engine. 

    Unless the motor is burning oil  (cloud that blows out and hangs in the air),  or you have to add oil all the time... I think you motor is usable...

    Sometimes the Governor is set too slow  (maybe 300 rpm too low), or a little carbon is on the valves or the valves need to be set...   Due to compression release and diffrent ways of finding compression,  Compression checks may not be accurate...

Please let us know,

Friiy

New carb was supposed to be a new Tecumseh - came in their box. Not sure on the jet - does have your usually adjustment screws. Does not smoke, does not use oil. It surges at high speed and will usually stall at low speed, can not move throttle all the way to slowest speed setting. Brought it to Ariens dealer where purchased. They diagnosed as compression problem - they changed head gasket - no success. Last year I could blow snow - but it would stall also if it got real deep. Recall it was probably not surging (at least as much) under load, but would when I would disengage the augers. Dealer said low compression could affect governor.

The first problem occurred in 2007 - took to dealer - they said the carb had dirt/gunk in it. They told me not to keep fuel in tank, even with stablizer and to replace my steel gas can and buy a plastic one. They replaced float and cleaned carb - cost about $130. Same problem in 2008 with the surging - so I figured carb got dirty and instead of paying someone to clean - bought a new one online for about $75. The replaced carb and surged with first start.

  Surging has to do with the carb being lean.....  

I have a Engine Maintence manual on PDF file...  Email me at   Friiy@aol.com   and I will send it to you.. It's about 2.5 MB  take a minute to download but is worth the wait..

On page 20 it tells how to adjust the carb (jet the carb)...  And also shows which screws to turn ..  depending on your type..

Good Luck,

Friiy

Okay friiy - I have sent you an email - hope there is something in the manual that will help. Snowblower is in great shape for a 1995 - no rust. This Ariens Pro really cuts through snow when it is operating right.

Well,   The first thing you have to understand about these carbs is they only have really 2 running modes

1: Low speed  (no load) throttle plate closed

2: High speed (any throttle setting other than Idle)

A:   The carb draws all of it's fuel threw the main jet on the bottom of the carb bowl.. (this can be eather a needle that adjusts or a bolt with a meter hole)

B: When the carb/engine is  at Idle (throttle plate closed ) all of the air it draws in is speeding by the edge of the closed throttle plate by the LOW speed orifice's (these line up roughly with the low speed needle mixure screw  side on the carb)

C:  When the engine is not getting enough fuel at  the Idle setting, The govenor senses RPM loss and opens the throttle (thinking load is bogging down the motor),  The motor starts to draw fuel through the main jet orifice ( behind the choke plate, a brass tube that sticks up and sprays fuel into the airstream),  When the Main jet take control of the fuel load the RPM's Rev for a moment,  The govenor senses the motor overspeeding and  corrects it by closing the throttle plate bringing back to idle,  But the low speed circut is running too lean and cannot maintain idle... So again the motors govenor trys to open the throttle to bring up/ maintain the idle RPM...  And this happens evertime the motor goes REV..... REV.......REV.

Don't mess with the govenor yet... it most likely is ok...

    Now first thing you should do is turn the low speed jet out (counter-clockwise ) about 1/8 turn (while motor is trying to idle)...  see if the osolations (rev..rev...rev) changes or  goes away..  If it doesn't,  turn it till the engine starts to run rich and blubbers -  then slowly turn it clockwise till it cleans up/ sounds better...

    You can adjust the High speed fuel jet (under the carb bowl) about the same way.... Put the throttle in the high speed position and have the engine at full speed.... If the motor is blubbering/ running rich turn the screw (high speed fuel jet under bowl)  clock wise to lean  it up,  or counter clockwise to richen it up....

Now here is a note about the high speed adjustment,  A motor running at full speed with no-load requires less fuel than a motor running at high speed under load.  (meaning the jet needs to be turned richer slightly from where the engine runs best under no load)..

Try that...If it does not improve, let me know what symptoms it has from there...

Good Luck,

Friiy

I went through the carb on my 25 year old Simplicity (Allis Chalmers) this fall because I had surging similar to what you described.  I put a new carb kit in it and the surging got worse.  I was tightening the head on the Tecumseh and scratching the head on my shoulders.  It turned out there is a very small pinhole in the main jet brass nut that wasn't drilled all the way through with the new kit.  I put the old main jet back in after cleaning it and pushing an extremely small wire through the pinhole to make sure it was open.  The surging was totally gone at high speed and it idled great .  I wouldn't assume anything even though you had replaced the carb and would bet it's not set-up right (too lean) for your engine.

I found this picture which is close to the small hole on my Tecumseh.  It's hard to see when holding it in your hand.  I pushed a wire through this hole and threw the one from the carb kit in the trash.

http://media.photobucket.com/image/tecumseh%20carb%20main%20jet/baymee/carb-jet-small-hole.jpg

hey friiy,

just thought l would say your info on carb adjustment/operation was prefect!! very well said. anyone with surging problems should read what friiy wrote very good info. they should post this at the top of this forum becuase l think alot people can use this infomation.

Lots of good carb information. I cleaned up a couple of old Mikuni VM28 carbs the other day. The hole in the air jet is so small that I had to use a strong magnifying glass to see if it was actually there or not. It was there and it was also plugged. The only reason I could determine that it had a hole in it was the other carb air jet was clean and I could see a very tiny hole maybe the width of two human hairs. Incredibly small. I couldn't put a wire nor a very small sewing needle through the blocked hole. I had to use a tiny drill bit to bore into the jet just a bit to clear the obstruction. I didn't bore all the way through so the stock specification hole is unchanged.

By the way, have you checked the air vent for your fuel cap?

Yes have checked the fuel cap - but will again. I did pop a hole through the screen in the fuel tank thinking this was plugged. I replaced all fuel lines, primer bulb, line to prime bulb, and fuel shut off valve as well since I was installing a new carb. I am going to look into this plugged hole in the jet also after going through the adjustment sequence that was described in an earlier message.