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Clay


Location: Wis
Joined: Dec 3, 2008
Points: 111

John Deere 1130 SE
Original Message   Jan 7, 2009 1:07 pm
I did a search and found a few references to this machine but no answers.  Any one have one of these?  15.5 snow max engine, heated hand grips, 30" wide.  I can't find a listing for auger diameter or impeller diameter.  I called John Deere and the guy that was suppose to be the snow thrower expert didn't know either. 

What is the Easy Steer drive system?  The literature says: 

  • Easy Steer® drive system giving continuous power to both wheels and auto speed adjustment
  • Is it similar to the Ariens auto differential? 

    I've heard that the units are built by B&S which translates to Simplicity.  They do have cast iron gear cases like the Simplicity.  The chute control is different than the simplicity and so is the turning method so they are not exactly the same.  I'm trying to compare the Simplicity L1530E to the JD 1130SE.  Any help would be appreciated.

    Rick

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    Swoods


    I love all power equipment from lawn mowers to snow blowers. My favorite pieces of equipment are 2 cycle Lawn Boys.

    Location: Elburn, IL
    Joined: Nov 21, 2009
    Points: 65

    Re: John Deere 1130 SE
    Reply #236   Jan 20, 2010 8:32 pm
    The JD stores are the ones who service the units.  Lowes doesn't service them so I don't think it would do much good to bring it back there.  They would just end up sending it to the JD dealer anyways.

    Here is what you need to tell the JD dealer:

    I spoke to a John Deere dealer in Minnesota (Scharber & Sons, Inc) who I was told has corrected a lot of the machines that had slippage.  The service department told me that there are a few things that they have been doing to fix the problem.
     
    First off, they clean the friction disc with brake cleaner to get any oil/grease off.  Next they add the updated clutch lever parts (clutch update) and readjust the cable.  Finally, they have been putting the water seal parts on.  He said the Briggs and Stratton has been covering all of this under warranty.  He said he was a bit hesitant that it would all be covered, but every warranty claim has gone through just fine for all of the updates to be done. 
     
    He told me there are 2 service bulletins on Briggs and Stratton's website on the problem.  I tried looking, but it must be on a dealer-access website.

    ahhhh3, send me your email and I will send you a big document that I compiled of all of the people on this forum's comments that are related to slippage and how it was corrected.
    This message was modified Jan 20, 2010 by Swoods


    Sean Woods
    Catt


    Location: Minnesota
    Joined: Oct 16, 2009
    Points: 196

    Re: John Deere 1130 SE
    Reply #237   Jan 22, 2010 1:56 pm
    I finally installed my hour meter.  I mounted it under the control panel out of sight and where it's a little more protected from the elements.

    I made a steel bracket with opening for the meter and two mounting holes. The steel is .055" thick.



    Painted with meter mounted. This meter has a compression fitting on the back to hold it in place.



    Mounted under the control panel with two existing holes that were already on the 1130.



    Another view.  It looks a little tilted in the picture, but it's just an optical illusion.
    This message was modified Jan 22, 2010 by Catt
    Swoods


    I love all power equipment from lawn mowers to snow blowers. My favorite pieces of equipment are 2 cycle Lawn Boys.

    Location: Elburn, IL
    Joined: Nov 21, 2009
    Points: 65

    Re: John Deere 1130 SE
    Reply #238   Jan 22, 2010 10:09 pm
    Another great modification, Catt.  By the way, I got another Lawn-Boy last weekend.  It is a 1989 model with the F engine.  Started up on the first pull after a shot of starting fluid even though it hadn't ran in around 12 years.  I keep a wanted ad on Craigslist looking for free Lawn-boys. 

    Sean Woods
    Catt


    Location: Minnesota
    Joined: Oct 16, 2009
    Points: 196

    Re: John Deere 1130 SE
    Reply #239   Jan 22, 2010 10:15 pm
    Wow another Lawn Boy!  I might try that too. 
    lanningjw


    Location: MINNEAPOLIS, MINNESOTA
    Joined: Oct 8, 2009
    Points: 29

    Re: John Deere 1130 SE
    Reply #240   Jan 31, 2010 11:02 am
    Just change 5 hour break in oil to Mobile one synthetic. I think the BS engine is running smother and quieter now with the new oil! Starts on the first or second pull after hitting the primer a couple of time. I only have to crank the choke one click and the engine fires up.
    This message was modified Jan 31, 2010 by lanningjw
    unrulee


    Joined: Feb 3, 2010
    Points: 1

    Re: John Deere 1130 SE
    Reply #241   Feb 3, 2010 11:55 pm
    This is my first post here, hello to all!

    I'm a mechanic at a JD dealership and I purchased a 1130se this year.  I have good luck with my machine, but like many of you, it would occationally slip in the lower gears (F or R). 

    From what I have seen at my location in central ND, Deere doesn't have anything for solutions.

    After reading the info posted here I sealed up the gearcase underneath the engine.  I used JD "combine sealant" (yes, that's what it's called).  I used it since it matches the green paint and it costs less than $10.  Once we finally got some snow I am happy to report that the slippage problem is gone.

    Locally we have come up with another solution for the slippage problem.........there are two springs that actually press the rubber drive wheel into the steel wheel.  The are located at the very bottom of transmission housing.  Remove those two springs and take them to your local hardware store and match them up with replacement springs that have a larger wire diameter (they will be stiffer and will press the wheels together tighter), but are still the same length.  To get the springs installed you may have to remove the engagement cable (I did) and re-adjust the length of the cable once you get the new springs on.  The handle will be slightly stiffer, but not horrible.  Total cost for this mod is less than $5.

    Hope this helps!

    This message was modified Feb 4, 2010 by unrulee
    Catt


    Location: Minnesota
    Joined: Oct 16, 2009
    Points: 196

    Re: John Deere 1130 SE
    Reply #242   Feb 4, 2010 1:05 am
    Welcome unrulee!  I also considered changing these two springs if the sealing hadn't solved my problem.  I never tried it but was wondering if the extra pressure would help.  I'm going to leave mine with only the sealant  since it's been working great, but here's a picture to help if anyone else want's to try unrulee's spring suggestion.  These springs are the limiting factor for the amount of pressure the aluminum disc applies to the rubber drive wheel. 


    This message was modified Feb 4, 2010 by Catt
    Catt


    Location: Minnesota
    Joined: Oct 16, 2009
    Points: 196

    Re: John Deere 1130 SE
    Reply #243   Feb 4, 2010 1:48 am
    I've been doing a little experimenting with the chute.  I wanted to see if I can cut down on the amount of snow that drops on the machine from the chute.  The idea is to keep the snow stream going up the chute rather than some of it flying out due to momentum from the impeller rotation.  I'm not sure how well this will work especially with slush, but if it's a problem I can remove it.  I used the same plastic that I used to line the back of the chute.



    Catt


    Location: Minnesota
    Joined: Oct 16, 2009
    Points: 196

    Re: John Deere 1130 SE
    Reply #244   Feb 4, 2010 1:16 pm
    Swoods,  I got a new toy!  I didn't find a Lawn Boy mower, but I did find a Billy Goat Outback brush mower with a 13HP Honda engine.  It's in really good shape, but I'll probably go through it and maybe put on some new paint where needed.  It's also green!
    This message was modified Feb 4, 2010 by Catt
    aa335


    Joined: Nov 29, 2008
    Points: 2434

    Re: John Deere 1130 SE
    Reply #245   Feb 4, 2010 1:45 pm
    Catt wrote:
    I've been doing a little experimenting with the chute.  I wanted to see if I can cut down on the amount of snow that drops on the machine from the chute.  The idea is to keep the snow stream going up the chute rather than some of it flying out due to momentum from the impeller rotation.  I'm not sure how well this will work especially with slush, but if it's a problem I can remove it.  I used the same plastic that I used to line the back of the chute.


    Looks good.  Hope you see some improvements.  My snowblower also drops snow on the side next to the chute as well.  It doesn't do it all the time, mostly with the light powdery stuff.  I think the atomization of the light snow slows down the velocity as it leaves the chute, then falling back down.
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