Abby’s Guide > Outdoor Power Equipment (Lawn Mowers, Snow Blowers, Chain Saws and more) > Discussions > John Deere 1130 SE
Outdoor Power Equipment (Lawn Mowers, Snow Blowers, Chain Saws and more) Discussions |
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Clay
Location: Wis
Joined: Dec 3, 2008
Points: 111
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John Deere 1130 SE
Original Message Jan 7, 2009 1:07 pm |
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I did a search and found a few references to this machine but no answers. Any one have one of these? 15.5 snow max engine, heated hand grips, 30" wide. I can't find a listing for auger diameter or impeller diameter. I called John Deere and the guy that was suppose to be the snow thrower expert didn't know either. What is the Easy Steer drive system? The literature says: Easy Steer® drive system giving continuous power to both wheels and auto speed adjustment Is it similar to the Ariens auto differential? I've heard that the units are built by B&S which translates to Simplicity. They do have cast iron gear cases like the Simplicity. The chute control is different than the simplicity and so is the turning method so they are not exactly the same. I'm trying to compare the Simplicity L1530E to the JD 1130SE. Any help would be appreciated. Rick
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lanningjw
Location: MINNEAPOLIS, MINNESOTA
Joined: Oct 8, 2009
Points: 29
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Re: John Deere 1130 SE
Reply #168 Dec 15, 2009 12:10 pm |
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I'm not too surprised the slipping is still occuring. Although Deere significantly improved the belt cover seal on the engine side, there is still a significant opening on the chute side. When I removed my belt cover to see if water was getting into the belt area I definitely saw water and I know some of it was coming from that side. If it gets on the pulley that drives the auger it will sling it around. In addition, under the engine are many holes for mounting other engines. I don't know if these are causing a problem but my concern would be melting snow running down the engine, getting underneath and then dripping into the chain case area. At the very least my suggestion is to add the 1/2" foam on the chute side of the belt guard. Beyond that, time will tell if other holes need to be closed. I fully believe this can be solved, but it would have been better if Simpicity/Deere would have solved this. Since I closed nearly every available opening, I will let everyone know if I have any slipping. I just need it to snow so that I can play with my toy! Catt, I am gonna do that fix also with the weather strip on the auger side, I can see the belts through it now, gotta be leaking snow in that area. Seems like a good idea. Did you put the glue side on the plastic or metal? Love the gas cap you showed in a earlier post. OEM parts work great. The blower start on the first pull, have not use the electric start. Will change oil when it gets the 5 hours on the engine, are you going with synthetic oil? I think it snowed more on the western edge of the TC than STP. Thanks for the picture,
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Catt
Location: Minnesota
Joined: Oct 16, 2009
Points: 196
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Re: John Deere 1130 SE
Reply #169 Dec 15, 2009 12:57 pm |
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Catt, I am gonna do that fix also with the weather strip on the auger side, I can see the belts through it now, gotta be leaking snow in that area. Seems like a good idea. Did you put the glue side on the plastic or metal? Love the gas cap you showed in a earlier post. OEM parts work great. The blower start on the first pull, have not use the electric start. Will change oil when it gets the 5 hours on the engine, are you going with synthetic oil? I think it snowed more on the western edge of the TC than STP. Thanks for the picture, lanningjw, I used a black marker to draw a line on the plastic belt cover for reference. Then I removed the cover and attached the foam glue side on the plastic. I thought that if I need to replace the foam in the future, that I can take off the plastic belt guard and it might be a little easier to replace. I will definitely use synthetic oil when I replace it.
This message was modified Dec 15, 2009 by Catt
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Swoods
I love all power equipment from lawn mowers to snow blowers. My favorite pieces of equipment are 2 cycle Lawn Boys.
Location: Elburn, IL
Joined: Nov 21, 2009
Points: 65
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Re: John Deere 1130 SE
Reply #170 Dec 16, 2009 7:37 am |
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I mounted my cab last night. I got the same JD branded model that Catt has. It seems to be of good quality and should last a long time. The hardest part was properly adjusting it once it was on the machine. In some positions the mounting brackets would get in the way of either the rod used to move the shoot or the carb choke knob. I mounted mine a bit lower down the handles for my height. I also mounted it pretty vertically so I can comfortably lean the machine back and it won't hit my head/face. I will probably spray it down with silicon spray. The kind used to waterproof fabric/shoes. Does anyone know of silicon spray that doesn't cost $6.99 a can like the special kind for fabric? Is there another type of silicon spray that is cheaper? Catt, what type of silicon did you use to spray down the rest of your machine? Maybe I'll use Rain-X on the windows too. I just have to be a bit careful that I don't use anything that will damage the windows. I don't want them to turn yellow or anything.
This message was modified Dec 16, 2009 by Swoods
Sean Woods
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borat
Joined: Nov 10, 2007
Points: 2692
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Re: John Deere 1130 SE
Reply #171 Dec 16, 2009 10:15 am |
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Not sure why you think you need to spray and coat the cab. I've had the Classic Deluxe quick release model for almost three years now. Never put anything on it and it's doing fine. If the snow thrower/cab is stored inside, it's very unlikely to require any coatings. The sun isn't beating on it and any snow accumulated on it will soon melt and run off it it's warm enough. As far as snow sticking to the windows, when that happens, I just give them a tap to knock the snow off. I've never had condensation issues on the interior either. If you guys really want to do something effective with your machines, I suggest you line the chute with a piece of hard, durable, slippery plastic like Krazy Karpet. It will save wear and tear on the inside of the chute, prevent rusting and snow sticking. It doesn't hurt snow throwing distance either. I've done it to mine and so far, it's held up very well. I'd say it's probably good for ten or more years.
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Swoods
I love all power equipment from lawn mowers to snow blowers. My favorite pieces of equipment are 2 cycle Lawn Boys.
Location: Elburn, IL
Joined: Nov 21, 2009
Points: 65
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Re: John Deere 1130 SE
Reply #172 Dec 16, 2009 10:28 am |
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I'll check out that plastic for the chute. Where did you buy it from? As far as silicon on the cab, I tend to "extra protect" everything that I like....such as this snowblower. I plan on using this snowblower for the rest of my life and I love going the extra mile to keep it nice. I just get a lot of satisfaction by taking good care of it.
This message was modified Dec 19, 2009 by Swoods
Sean Woods
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Swoods
I love all power equipment from lawn mowers to snow blowers. My favorite pieces of equipment are 2 cycle Lawn Boys.
Location: Elburn, IL
Joined: Nov 21, 2009
Points: 65
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Re: John Deere 1130 SE
Reply #176 Dec 17, 2009 10:33 pm |
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I took off my lower housing cover plate from the bottom of the machine and sealed up all of the extra engine mount holes and put the stick-on foam on the front part where it seals against the housing. I also siliconed all around the edge of it once I mounted it back on. I just ordered the fuel gauge/cap that Catt recommended. I ended up ordering it from Jacks Small Engine. Catt, I think we're going to end up with the same machine after we both get done with the modifications. Let me know what you're going to do next :)
This message was modified Dec 19, 2009 by Swoods
Sean Woods
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Catt
Location: Minnesota
Joined: Oct 16, 2009
Points: 196
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Re: John Deere 1130 SE
Reply #177 Dec 18, 2009 8:57 pm |
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I saw where borat put a plastic liner in his snowblower chute and decided I would like to add this to my 1130. The problem I had was getting plastic to curve in two different planes at the same time. There is a curve going up/down and a "U" shape from side to side. I also wanted the plastic fairly thick to protect from rocks as my last blower had a couple of dents in the chute. I decided on a compromise where I would target the back portion of the chute but would leave the sides without plastic. I bought a plastic trash can from Walmart. The plastic was very smooth inside and the thickness was .068". I cut two pieces of plastic from the trash can. One for the chute and the other for the chute deflector. I really don't like drilling holes in my equipment unless absolutely necessary. In this case I decided it was needed to keep the deflector plastic in place. I put masking tape on both the inside and outside of the deflector before drilling to avoid scratching the paint with burrs. I used a stainless steel bolt with a round head. The lower plastic is held in place with an existing mounting bolt. I used a round phenolic knob with a metal insert on the top side of the deflector. The knob looks fine, but I'm sure there would be many other options. Mounted on the 1130. I'll test it when the next snow comes.
This message was modified Jan 22, 2010 by Catt
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