Outdoor Power Equipment (Lawn Mowers, Snow Blowers, Chain Saws and more) Discussions

I just swapped a 3-year-old Toro 1128 OXE for an Ariens 1332LE (924128)...because I wanted/needed a larger machine.  Can anyone date this Ariens?  It appears to have very little usage (scraper blade is almost unmarked, chute has just a few marks).  The Toro is a great machine, but I really need the extra size. 

Well???  Did I just blow it????   Go ahead, I can take it...

  The 924128 seems to be 2005-2006.   The year would not matter much as condition.  The 128 has the light weight auger gearbox compared to the top of the line Ariens 924 model run but still an ok gearbox.  (The steel gearbox used two cone roller bearings).  Both engines were OHV's.  The Ariens had a cast iron bore which the Toro might have had also.  Both were similarly priced.   I think the tires on the Ariens are a bit wider which is nice on a big machine.  It’s probably a good trade given the need.

Here's a pic....as you can see there is not a lot of wear on this.  I already miss the power steering on the Toro, not for actual usage but for wheeling it around the garage. 

There's quite a bit of paint gone from the bottom of the impeller housing.  This may be normal
or you may have a worn impeller bearing allowing the impeller to rub on the housing.  You can
easily check the bearing by seeing if you can move the impeller at all with your hand (with the
machine turned off).  There should be no play at all.

Paul

Any snow thrower that will be moving end of driveway deposits will have the paint removed from the impeller housing in one season or less.  Gravel, salt and dense snow make an abrasive and corrosive concoction.   Check your own machines.  I had a look at my one year old machine yesterday and there's not much paint to be found inside the impeller housing.

While we're on the subject... is there a consensus on the necessity of getting in the impeller housing with a wire brush/sandpaper and touch-up paint? I did that last year and it was a pain. And of course, much of that work from last year is already worn off by this year's record snowfall here in SE Wisconsin.

mfduffy wrote:

Waste of time and effort.  We'll never keep up with it.  When wear causes excessive clearance, put in a Clarence kit and go for another ten years.....

mfduffy wrote:
I can't disagree with Borat on this, it's just too much trouble - and almost impossible without pulling the impeller.  I just spray mine with some CLP*, even my MTD RustMagnet(TM) holds up well with just that.

*Break-Free CLP, meant for firearms: Clean-Lubricate-Protect. Available at sporting goods stores and even some Walmarts. I stopped using WD40.

Link: http://www.break-free.com/products/products_breakfreeclp.asp?catalog=industrial

trouts2 wrote:
Actually this model is from 2004. Keep the belt adjusted and you'll be fine. A 32" bucket and 13hp engine  with a 14" impeller will be rougher on belts than the Toro due to the increased volumetric capacity (this model does not have an available dual belt drive). Also, this model (and most 924,XXX models preceding it) are known to be on the fast side in first gear. 5 minutes and a metal lathe could possibly slow this down if needed. The 13hp Tecumseh engine is a real treat as it is the only counterbalanced snow engine. Smooth as glass.


PK

Snowmann:

Have you heard of any reliability issues with the 13 h.p. ohv Tecumseh?  I looked at a used Ariens 1336 and the engine had very obvious evidence of being apart either several times or worked on by a sloppy mechanic.  That's the main reason I passed up buying it.  After reading several other posts about the  problems with the 1336, I'm  sure that was the right decision.   

Snowmann wrote:
Could you please elaborate ?  My 9526DLE is also too fast in first gear.  What can be
turned, the engine pulley ?

Paul

borat wrote:
Nothing excessive or unusual. A few throttles that would loosen and not hold a few years back. A good engine for sure.

PK

pvrp wrote:
Yeah.

Did you try to adjust the shift rod trunion ? Not sure about the 926,XXX models, but on the multi-speed Compacts you can adjust the trunion 4 turns or so to slow the unit before wheel torque becomes a problem.

PK

Snowmann wrote:
If you mean moving the friction wheel closer to the center of the drive plate I did do this and it helped a bit
but not enough for my taste.  The side effect was that  2nd reverse can no longer be engaged , something
is stopping the friction disk from moving over enough (though 1st reverse is now probably close to what was
2nd reverse).  I haven't had a chance to open the machine up and see what it is.   In first forward there must
now be quite a bit of sideways movement to the contact patch on  the rubber, which can't be much good for it.

I'd like a big reduction in speed.  I could live with losing the top two or three forward speeds if it would buy
me a good strong creep speed.  I'm regularly facing one to three feet of snow since my cottage is on a mountain
and I don't get to go there more than every other week.  I'll take a look a the drive pulley and do some math.

Even in town the only time I use fifth or sixth gear is to cross the street.

Paul

I'm not sure it would be a good idea to get too crazy with the engine pulley. If you go too far, you'll reduce belt life and/or possibly cause the belt to jump. A different length belt may also be required.

There is a track drive kit that would slow the unit down (40%), but it's pricey and may also have some other attributes you're not looking for.

PK

Snowmann wrote:
I'd forgotten that I could turn this machine into a DLET with the kit, which would be very nice speed
and traction-wise. I was originally looking at one but went for wheels because I have to clear an
elaborate wheelchair ramp which has hairpin turns in places.   Still the tracks may be the best
solution.  Thanks.

Paul