Outdoor Power Equipment (Lawn Mowers, Snow Blowers, Chain Saws and more) Discussions

I have an HH60 engine on a 1981 or so Troy bilt tiller. It ran fine for years but the summer broke a rod. (I think it was low on oil). I have taken the engine apart. No gouges in the sylinder or holes anywhere. There is a small ridge at the top of the cylinder that you can barely scratch a fingernail on. I put the old piston and rings in and my hand over the top of the cylinder. It seems to have alot of suction/compression when pulling the piston from the bottom.

There is aluminum on the crankshaft . I will try the muratic acid trick I have read elsewhere on here.

Question is, is this worth rebuilding? I like tinkering with stiff but money is a conern. I like this motor because it has electric start on it. ROds are expenesive as the one for my model number says it is 40 bucks.

Should I re-ring it? I have a cylinder hone from harbor freight I bought the other day. I have never used one. I dont have a ridge reamer but might be bale to rent one at Autozone.

It ran well before this happened except now that I recall a week or so before it went, faint white smoke cam out of the exhaust when it was reved up.

ANy advice? Do I need to mike everythign out to an automobile's engine precision or since this is a tiller just clean the crank, bolt a new rod and rings and go with it?

I have been takign off parts and cleaning them. The head did seem to have alot of carbon but was easily cleaned.

I think it may have been rebuilt before as the engine paint is oversprayed in places. The piston was stammped STD which I assumes means it is stadard sized.

Thanks again!

p.s.

Only use a little acid on the crank journal,  I use a few q-tips  and  a cap full of acid...

I rinse the crank in water afterward and re-oil it ...  to prevent rust.  Cap the acid tight after you pour it, and get it out of the garage and remove the rags from the trash can...  the fumes overnight can dull chrome tools..

The asid trick is something you should do in one setting to prevent corrosion,  don't let anything set overnight or  more than 20 or so minutes unles you are there with it..

Good luck

Friiy

Yes, it is the heavy horizontal. Is it necessary to replace the seal too? I am not sure how they go in. No crack. I am not sure if a short block is available. The rod has been disconinued. I have found one for about 40 bucks. I am not sure if the ring kits available are chrome or not.

I am disassembling and cleaning everythign and painting the parts. I was wantign to remove the "magneto assemble" that attaches with two bolts to a plate. But i am afraid I will mess up the timing. Will I mess up the timing if I do this?

Thanks so much for your help guys. I am learning alot.

Please post the model , type and  serial...

Do not pay that much for a rod yet......   There is a number of aftermarket companys for engine parts...  I have had very few / no problems with aftermarket internal engine parts...

Post the rod part number too if you would..

The seals sometimes nick up as you take off the side case.    Does this have points? Timing should not be messed up by taking off the magneto,  just make a mark on  the top,   sometimes the electronic ignition can be mounted upside down and cause it not to run.  Are you pulling the flywheel? 

Friiy

The HH is Horizontal Heavy Duty and indicates cast iron.  

 

 The HF cylinder bore I bought comes with medium grit so I picked up fine later.  Go up and down with the hone to get about a 30 degree score on the bore.

Here are my numbers:

HH60-105116Hser23230

The rod number I am being told I need is: 34750 I have seen another rod for an HH60 engine a 3180c or something like that but everyone keeps telling me with my model number I need the 34750.

I have pulled the fly wheel off. I am taking parts off as I have time, cleaning them, and storing them in freezer bags in a storage room I have in my house. I am going to paint them with red engine paint also.

I still need to find time to get that aluminum off.

By the way, is the acess door that goes to the valve springs suppsed to have a hole in it? I have not taken it off but noticed that this morning. It was a perfectly round hole like it is supposed to be there.

Is it ok to use the medium grit stones?

Thanks so much guys. I am learnign alot. I would love to get this think back and going. I hope to start a pumlin patch this summer to earn soem extra money and for the kids. I even got the electric starter workign the other day.

As far as the mageto, I read somewhere the only adjustment was to turn it counterclockwise as far as it will go before tightening screws.

Yes this does have points. The reason I asked about the seals is it looks like they would be hard to replace. I have bushings not bearings in the case and I cant see how a person would remove the beals without also removing the bushings. I dont think it leaked any oil when I pulled it apart.

Thanks again!

The hole in the valve access cover is probably for the crank case ventilation hose.  It usually runs from the valve cover to an area near the carburetor intake so that crank case oil residue/fumes can be fed into the carb and burned off with the fuel. 

Thanks! I think you are right.

Any help with finding a cheap rod for this thing?

wow..... I can't find a aftermarket for that rod .    list on the rod is $90

Friiy

Is there anywhere I can get one?

Like you said, They are still online...... I found the same one you you did... about  $41.97...

I would make a list of all the parts you are going to get and add up the cost and check availability....

....I know Tecumseh is stopping production of engines...  this must have been a expensive/ not popular motor for the rod to be so pricey and that no one else makes it...

any luck on a shortblock,  the rod may not be available (that specific rod) but a shortblock may still be available with a newer style of rod (cheaper to get if needed )...

Good luck,

Friiy