Outdoor Power Equipment (Lawn Mowers, Snow Blowers, Chain Saws and more) Discussions

I don't really need another project this winter but could anyone tell me if this BCS tiller is worth putting some time into? Right now all I know is that the cylinder in the italian (Acme) 8hp engine does not seem to move at all. There is what smells like diesel fuel on the top of the cylinder when you pull the sparkplug.  I checked the reviews on this web page and the new models seem to have satisfied owners.  I don't really need the snowblower part that came with it. Just the tiller. Any thoughts/comments/concerns are welcome. If you know the vintage of the unit that would be of interest to me.  The tires have a few very small cracks (where the wheels sat for a long time without much air)  but nothing that would concern me.  I don't have any information from the previous owner other than it's been in the family a long time, sat in a barn in VT, and the engine is siezed up.  It uses one of those oil bath air filters.  It has three forward speeds and one speed reverse. Would an inexpensive chinese (honda knockoff) 8hp bolt right on?

friiy wrote: Have you tried a diffrent plug? YES, no change

I see (I think ) three wires going to the points..one should go to the condenser...one should go to the coil. (under the blower housing) ...The third should go to the remote kill swich on the tiller handlebars...This is what you see correct? make sure the wire going to the remote kill is disconnected and the rest are hooked up. 
YES, this is correct. I took the picture just before removing the kill switch wire.  I needed a photo because I was worried about getting everything back the way it was. To remove the kill switch wire you need to completely remove the screw that holds the spring to the points and the other two wires.  The other wires just slide out but the kill switch is a "captive" connection so you have  to remove the screw.  I did that and then put the two wires back on for the condensor and the coil. All the wires looked to be in good shape. No rotted out insulation or anything like that.

Do you see the points moving ? (I have seen the plunger gum up and stick / slow down)
Yes, as I pulled the starter I could watch the points come together and then pull apart.

Is there a wire that goes down to the throttle linkage with a kill tab on it?  The kill tab is made to ground out if the throttle is pulled back below idle.. If so,  make sure it is not grounding out.. No, there it to kill on teh throttle linkage

friiy wrote:
Thank you.  Yes, I do have a volt/olm meter. It is a very small battery powered meter that I have used on electronics. And yes, the meter has a continuity setting on it.  So I should rotate the engine until the points are open and then I shoud take take the two leads from the meter and  I should put one of the leads on the points/bracket where the wires would normally attach  and then touch the other lead to the aluminum engine block? Is this correct? When set on "continuity" the meter beeps when it detects a continuous circuit.  So I should not hear a beep if everything is working correctly, right?

What you stated is true,  but you should have the coil-to-points wire disconnected to test...

you should be able to see the points open and close on the meter as you slowly turn over the motor..

There is a Tecumseh engine service manual on the site as a link... The ignition troubleshooting (points and coil) are the same,   except shape and location..  if you read the chaper (just a few pages) it will give you a great understanding of how the system works and how to troubleshoot..

I still think nothing is wrong with it... just something is shorted or grounded..

If I could have  a dollar for every person that tried to buy a coil or magneto from me to repair their  " ignition problem"..   I would never have to ask the wife for beer money again..

. hahaha

Good luck

Friiy

That is more for elctronic ignition than points....

also alot of that is nonsense as for as  (checking magnet strengh and coil to flywheel airgap )  and so on.  The thought I have is , no one has butchered into this machine yet... as far as taking this thing apart and putting it back together and really screwing things up..  I would keep troubleshooting as though the machine did not start one day...not like someone brought it to you in a box.

Magnets do not dissipate unless exposed to EXTREME Heat,   EXTREME current flow. (like a shorting a battery through the flywheel for a minute). 

Friiy

It doesn't  look like it has alot of wear on it,  The tread is still there, the tin over the tines is in good shape.   A Diamond in the rough...

Friiy

We've got a spark! Terrific. Well sort of.  Here's what happened. (sorry its so long)

1) with all the wires disconnected from the bracket/screw (the one attached to  one of the points)  the bracket/screw would not show continuity (short) when the other lead of the tester was touched to the block. This was true when the  point were closed and even when they were open. (either way, nothing was showing a ground to the engine)

2) with the coil wire connected to the points bracket/screw there was continuity (grounding situation?) between the bracket/screw.  This was true if the points were open and also true if  the points were closed. It always grounded.

3) Now this is the strange part so bear with me.  With only the condensor wire connected to the points/bracket and the points open, there was was no continuity (no grounding situation).  With the points closed there was still no grounding, But then one time there was. Yes, just randomly the tester beeped. But then I could not repeat the result.

4) The points.  This is really bizzare.  With all the wires removed from the bracket/screw  and the points open there was no continuity (no grounding) when one lead was attached to one point and another lead was attached to the other (second) point.  With the points closed this was still true. This situation existed with the coil and condensor connected to the screw/bracket.  The current was not going between the two points.  I washed them down with cleaner and ran the a very fine grit sandpaper between them (for the third time). They don't seem dirty or worn.  Granted they are old.  But sometimes,( when they test positive for continuity) the spark plug gets a really nice popping spark (i can see it easily and i have issues with my vision). Other times the points don't show continuity and there's no spark.  I know they need to be clean  and gapped right. But there's something more to this.  When i test them for continuity I don't even use the face of the points, I use their sides. Where would a point loose it's connection.   Are the soldered on? What hold them in place? Does this sound like I'm looking in the right place for a solution?

Good news: the kill switch and its lead wire are fine. And the ACME sometimes has spark!  Friiy, this was a good day. 

Have you checked the spark plug wire and spark plug cap for continuity?   You might have a bad wire/cap causing an intermittent loss of conductivity.

borat wrote:
Yes, I did check the plug wire and spark plug cap for continuity. Both seemed fine at the time. I will check them again.  Why would the two points not show continuity when they are pushed together. That makes no sense.  Maybe I should get a closer look at them and check the gap again.  I found shop service manual on the internet.  I'm hoping it arrives by the weekend. Then I can confirm the gap setting. Maybe they aren't making good contact with each other.  That Marvel Mystery oil was everywhere and the carb above drips directly onto the point when the box is open.