Outdoor Power Equipment (Lawn Mowers, Snow Blowers, Chain Saws and more) Discussions

I don't really need another project this winter but could anyone tell me if this BCS tiller is worth putting some time into? Right now all I know is that the cylinder in the italian (Acme) 8hp engine does not seem to move at all. There is what smells like diesel fuel on the top of the cylinder when you pull the sparkplug.  I checked the reviews on this web page and the new models seem to have satisfied owners.  I don't really need the snowblower part that came with it. Just the tiller. Any thoughts/comments/concerns are welcome. If you know the vintage of the unit that would be of interest to me.  The tires have a few very small cracks (where the wheels sat for a long time without much air)  but nothing that would concern me.  I don't have any information from the previous owner other than it's been in the family a long time, sat in a barn in VT, and the engine is siezed up.  It uses one of those oil bath air filters.  It has three forward speeds and one speed reverse. Would an inexpensive chinese (honda knockoff) 8hp bolt right on?

borat wrote:

The points and condenser for ignition are located in a square box with a button on it (directly below the carburetor and muffler). Why is there a button?  The kill switch wire goes all the way down and into that box.  Very strange.

friiy wrote: The wire to the kill switch is a very long wire. It will take some work to disconnect it. It is fastened  at various locations.  Some of the wire has lost it's covering. I don't see anything grounding but again it winds and twists all over the place before going into that little box with the mysterious button.

The button is just another kill switch mounted on the motor,   just open the box and disconnect the "remote kill switch"  wire that goes up the handlebar.   you can leave the wire on the unit strapped to the handle bar for now..

The remote kill button on the handle bar and the button on the block just ground out the mag and points...

Friiy

friiy wrote:

I opened the square box and disconnected the wire to the kill switch.  Then I put a small amount of fuel in the intake and pulled the starter.  No spark.  Then I pulled the spark plug and hooked it to the spark plug wire (the wire is in excellent shape).  I grounded the spark plug this time to the engine block and turned out all the lights.  Then I pulled the starter cord again. No spark. 

Since the box was open, I cleaned the points while I was in there.  They seemed to be in very good shape.  I cleaned them with a small emery cloth and then checked the gap with a spark plug gap tool.  The gap was within spec so I just left it alone.  What about the condensor?  Those are still available for this model. 

The bowl was removed from the carb. The float works as it should and fuel fills the bowl.  I was able to confirm the correct position for the choke control and for the fuel line shut off (opposite of what I had thought before). The bowl had some crud in the base but nothing terrible.  It is soaking in carb cleaner now. The float did not seem to have any holes in it. 

Have you tried a diffrent plug?

I see (I think ) three wires going to the points..

one should go to the condenser     

one should go to the coil. (under the blower housing)     

The third should go to the remote kill swich on the tiller handlebars...

This is what you see correct?

make sure the wire going to the remote kill is disconnected and the rest are hooked up. 

Do you see the points moving ? (I have seen the plunger gum up and stick / slow down)

Is there a wire that goes down to the throttle linkage with a kill tab on it?  The kill tab is make to ground out if the throttle is pulled back below idle.. If so,  make sure it is not grounding out..

Friiy

Do you have a volt/ ohm meter?...   with the points open check to make sure there is no continuity to ground from  the wires connection..

Friiy

friiy wrote: Have you tried a diffrent plug? YES, no change

I see (I think ) three wires going to the points..one should go to the condenser...one should go to the coil. (under the blower housing) ...The third should go to the remote kill swich on the tiller handlebars...This is what you see correct? make sure the wire going to the remote kill is disconnected and the rest are hooked up. 
YES, this is correct. I took the picture just before removing the kill switch wire.  I needed a photo because I was worried about getting everything back the way it was. To remove the kill switch wire you need to completely remove the screw that holds the spring to the points and the other two wires.  The other wires just slide out but the kill switch is a "captive" connection so you have  to remove the screw.  I did that and then put the two wires back on for the condensor and the coil. All the wires looked to be in good shape. No rotted out insulation or anything like that.

Do you see the points moving ? (I have seen the plunger gum up and stick / slow down)
Yes, as I pulled the starter I could watch the points come together and then pull apart.

Is there a wire that goes down to the throttle linkage with a kill tab on it?  The kill tab is made to ground out if the throttle is pulled back below idle.. If so,  make sure it is not grounding out.. No, there it to kill on teh throttle linkage

friiy wrote:
Thank you.  Yes, I do have a volt/olm meter. It is a very small battery powered meter that I have used on electronics. And yes, the meter has a continuity setting on it.  So I should rotate the engine until the points are open and then I shoud take take the two leads from the meter and  I should put one of the leads on the points/bracket where the wires would normally attach  and then touch the other lead to the aluminum engine block? Is this correct? When set on "continuity" the meter beeps when it detects a continuous circuit.  So I should not hear a beep if everything is working correctly, right?